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I have a mini-split system in my house. In many old houses, it's the way to go because it's extremely low labor cost to install them. For each air handler, you use a hole cutter on an electric drill to cut a 3" hole through the exterior wall. Everything runs back to the condenser on a pad outside.
The problem is that you need a separate air handler in every room with a door that closes. You may decide that you just want one air handler in the main living area and one in each bedroom that is actually used every night. The rest of the house will be cool if you leave doors open assuming you have decent insulation and windows.
My house is only 992 square feet. I only use one bedroom so I just leave the door open and have one air handler for the house. I'm well insulated and have good windows & doors so 18,000 BTU cools me just fine. I have a DC-inverter system that is extremely efficient. I just run the thing 24x7 all summer and don't have much of an electric bill. It's all about insulation, widows, and doors. My system was $5K plus another $1000 to the electrician because my electric panel was full so they had to install an exterior panel next to the electric meter outside to have a 220v breaker for the mini-split system. It doesn't draw much power so my lousy 100 amp service didn't need to be upgraded.
I made a mistake when I bought mine. I have forced hot water baseboard heat so I just bought a pure A/C system. If I had to do it over again, I'd buy a heat pump so it doubles as a backup heating system. If I ever opted for solar panels on the roof, it could also mostly heat my house in the winter. A heat pump doesn't cost particularly more. When this system dies eventually, I'll replace it with a heat pump. They say 10+ years. I'm at 7 with no signs of problems.
The usual advice is to use a name brand Japanese model and avoid the Chinese stuff. Mitsubishi has been at it forever and is #1 in the US. Daikin is a big player in Japan and worldwide but less so in the US. I have a Fujitsu. Sanyo. Toshiba. The Korean LG and Samsung stuff is fine.
The markup on this stuff from your local HVAC company is huge. You can buy the systems online for a couple thousand bucks but it's probably a challenge getting anyone to honor a warranty if it's not purchased and installed by an authorized dealer.
The next time, I'm probably going with a 23 SEER Mitsubushi heat pump. I'm in a cold enough climate that it's good to have a heat pump as a backup that will run down to -15F.
I would guess you can do an air handler in your main living area plus a couple smaller ones in bedrooms for about $7,500. The more air handlers you need, the more it costs.
What is the purpose in buying a house built in 1925? Are there literally no other alternatives? In some areas there may not be.
Maybe it's really cool! I was going to buy one in Phoenix. There were (maybe still are) Federal/State Grants to help with restoration. Had become a crack neighborhood and they wanted to change that.
Thanks so much for all of this info too! Very nice of you to take the time. Also good to know you would use the heat pump as well. This opens up a few of the other houses that I have not been considering.
This is very much appreciated!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffD
I have a mini-split system in my house. In many old houses, it's the way to go because it's extremely low labor cost to install them. For each air handler, you use a hole cutter on an electric drill to cut a 3" hole through the exterior wall. Everything runs back to the condenser on a pad outside.
The problem is that you need a separate air handler in every room with a door that closes. You may decide that you just want one air handler in the main living area and one in each bedroom that is actually used every night. The rest of the house will be cool if you leave doors open assuming you have decent insulation and windows.
My house is only 992 square feet. I only use one bedroom so I just leave the door open and have one air handler for the house. I'm well insulated and have good windows & doors so 18,000 BTU cools me just fine. I have a DC-inverter system that is extremely efficient. I just run the thing 24x7 all summer and don't have much of an electric bill. It's all about insulation, widows, and doors. My system was $5K plus another $1000 to the electrician because my electric panel was full so they had to install an exterior panel next to the electric meter outside to have a 220v breaker for the mini-split system. It doesn't draw much power so my lousy 100 amp service didn't need to be upgraded.
I made a mistake when I bought mine. I have forced hot water baseboard heat so I just bought a pure A/C system. If I had to do it over again, I'd buy a heat pump so it doubles as a backup heating system. If I ever opted for solar panels on the roof, it could also mostly heat my house in the winter. A heat pump doesn't cost particularly more. When this system dies eventually, I'll replace it with a heat pump. They say 10+ years. I'm at 7 with no signs of problems.
The usual advice is to use a name brand Japanese model and avoid the Chinese stuff. Mitsubishi has been at it forever and is #1 in the US. Daikin is a big player in Japan and worldwide but less so in the US. I have a Fujitsu. Sanyo. Toshiba. The Korean LG and Samsung stuff is fine.
The markup on this stuff from your local HVAC company is huge. You can buy the systems online for a couple thousand bucks but it's probably a challenge getting anyone to honor a warranty if it's not purchased and installed by an authorized dealer.
The next time, I'm probably going with a 23 SEER Mitsubushi heat pump. I'm in a cold enough climate that it's good to have a heat pump as a backup that will run down to -15F.
I would guess you can do an air handler in your main living area plus a couple smaller ones in bedrooms for about $7,500. The more air handlers you need, the more it costs.
Maybe it's really cool! I was going to buy one in Phoenix. There were (maybe still are) Federal/State Grants to help with restoration. Had become a crack neighborhood and they wanted to change that.
Always a cool house, of course! In wonderful old neighborhoods. I have no interest in restoration, but I prefer a well loved, well made house that stands the test of time.
When I do my searches I always choose 50+ years. I am not interested in a new house, in the suburbs, in new developments. I have yet to see one that I can imagine will be around in another 100 years (yes I know they exist, its just not my "thing").
[quote=InchingWest;47076781]What is the purpose in buying a house built in 1925? Are there literally no other alternatives? In some areas there may not be.[/QUOTE
Solid build, thick walls, real hardwood, architectural character, no Chinese-made materials, a connection to the past and pleasure in maintaining that connection. Totally worth it.
Nope. It depends on the house.
In particular whether you already have the ductwork in place or not.
The Equipment.... blower, coil and condensing unit installed, inspected, etc... ~ $5000
Adapting that to an existing ductwork system? another $500 or so.
Yes, very area dependent. I couldn't get that equipment installed into a warm air system for less than $2,000 labor in the Northeast.
I had central heat and air (gas heat, heating/cooling unit located in attic) installed about 3 years ago into a 70 year old house with no existing A/C and no relevant existing heating system. All ductwork was newly installed. The house is about 1400 sq. ft. and no basement (only a crawl space). It was something between $9000 and $10,000. I don't know off hand the heating and cooling capacities, but it's very effective at cooling and heating for North Texas climate, where heating requirements are not very great but cooling requirements are extreme.
If you have any diy capabilities at all, you could try installing your own ductwork. In my town we have an HVAC supply house that sells duct materials, they will even build the trunk lines from fiberboard for you if you tell them what size you need... you simply connect it, hang it, then install your collars and flex. For an older house like that I'd look at a package unit as well, no need for an indoor air handler.
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