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Again, I really can't thank you enough my friend for this excellent advice! I've poked around those websites this morning to get a better feel for things, and able to take some pictures of the existing.
Here is what we have now (see pictures):
We have 4 of those control panels, and it would appear a "GEM-P1632" control board for 24 wires (labeled on paper in the picture) going into 8 hard wired zones that appear to be doubled up (picture of handwriting on inside of control box). We have:
The reason you have 8 hardwired zones is because that's all your panel accepts without expansion boards. If you used expansion boards you could have every sensor on it's own zone. You can get a wireless system and basically install one wireless sensor on each pair of wires you would have a fully separated zone system.
A zone is a area of protection. A panel doesn't care if that zone is one window or twenty. You could pul all your windows on one zone if you wished to.
Most hardwire panels have the capability to accept additional zone expansion boards. This allows a more spread out coverage and better locating a alarm /intrusion point. It also minimizes your loss of coverage in case of a sensor going bad. If you have multiple sensors on one zone and a sensor goes bad you lost security coverage on ALL those sensors on that zone. I would prefer a hardwired system simply because you won't have battery maintenance. Otherwise either system works
1 carbon monoxide detector wired into the system.
2 fire alarm detectors wired into the system (The others are just stand-alones around the house).
1 motion detector
2 glass-break detectors
9 wires to serve 21 individual window sensors (labeled by room in the paper list picture)
4 control unit locations (front door, garage door entrance, basement door, master bedroom), all the same type.
1 wire for "Telco" - not sure what that is? That's for the landline telephone connection for the system to dial out
The system was installed when the house was built in 2000. THANKFULLY, each wire has a number tag on it that corresponds to the paper-list I found inside the box (I forgot it was there). So, whomever did that 17 years ago, I owe you a beer (or 24) in appreciation!
If it was in Talega So Cal it was probably me. I did well over 1500 homes there.
I'll create a second post on what I hope to accomplish, and if you have time, give some guidance on what to buy. I am 100% on-board with a Honeywell setup!
Bold.
Honeywell makes a good unit. So does DSC. Lmk if you gave any questions.
Thanks! Unfortunately not So Cal, but DC instead. Wouldn't mind living in So Cal though, as I have been there several times for work.
I think at this point the focus will be on the control panels throughout the house, making it all work from our iphones, and making sure I can incorporate wireless cameras into the operation, which I believe the 6160RF panel MediocreButArrogant suggested earlier might take care of. I do have a question though on that aspect - would a wifi expansion board to the main board also take care of that aspect?
I am looking forward to tackling this project, it looks like it'll be a fun challenge! Kind've brings me back to my earlier days of when I would build my own computers from scratch (15 years ago).
6160RF is not a "panel". It's a keypad, with an integrated wireless transceiver for communicating with 5800 series wireless sensors and contacts, and has nothing at all to do with any kind of camera. If this isn't clear to you, you need to do more research. If you want wireless cameras that you can view through Total Connect (AlarmNet) or alarm.com, you need to buy cameras that are compatible with those platforms.
If home automation matters a lot, you might want to look at the QolSys IQ panel or 2Gig GC3. Both are compatible (or can be compatible) with Honeywell 5800 series alarm contacts and sensors. Also, for completely wireless systems, there is a bridge module made by Honeywell that attaches to all your wired zones (up to nine), and connects them to the panel as 5800-series compatible contacts.
I have ordered the following to update the system. Please let me know if you guys see anything off for this list. I do have a couple of questions at the end.
(1) Honeywell Vista 20P with the "EYEZ-ON EVL-3 Self Monitoring Module"
(1) Honeywell 4229 Ademco wired zone expander and relay board (8 more zones and two relays)
(1) Honeywell Ademco AURORA PIR Motion Sensor (have one that is original, figured why not update it).
(4) TUXWIFI touch controllers with wifi (6280i)
Since I am basically starting over with the security system interface with the home owner, I decided to spend the extra money on the control units. My intention is to be able to lock all the doors, lower the garage doors, and/or see the video camera feeds from any of the control panel locations in the house. This will hopefully include new smart doorbell buttons with cameras. From what I read online, through this zwave technology, it sounds like I'll be able to do that (but also understand likely not any brand with a zwave interface).
I watched a few youtube videos on the EVL3 module and liked what I saw. I like the idea of having the ability to incorporate our phones into the interaction of the system. Hopefully not a gimmick though. But it seems like there is a laundry list of little add-on pieces you can buy for $100 +/- to this 20P board that can basically allow it to grow with the technology.
Question: How can I tell if I have a 4-wire or 2-wire smoke detector? I have 2 smoke detectors and 1 carbon detector wired into the system. It is as easy as pulling down the smoke detector and counting how many wires are attached to the unit? Does this also apply to the carbon detector as well?
I watched a few youtube videos on the EVL3 module and liked what I saw. I like the idea of having the ability to incorporate our phones into the interaction of the system. Hopefully not a gimmick though. But it seems like there is a laundry list of little add-on pieces you can buy for $100 +/- to this 20P board that can basically allow it to grow with the technology.
Question: How can I tell if I have a 4-wire or 2-wire smoke detector? I have 2 smoke detectors and 1 carbon detector wired into the system. It is as easy as pulling down the smoke detector and counting how many wires are attached to the unit? Does this also apply to the carbon detector as well?
Thanks all!
I thought the EVL-3 is no longer made, having been replaced by the EVL-4. Personally I would not use it as I would not want to rely on a wired internet connection for any security functions. I'd want to have a cellular connection as a backup, even if I have to pay a monthly charge.
Two-wire smokes carry power and status on one pair of wires, four-wire smoke carry them on separate pairs. So yeah, counting the wires should work.
Thanks MediocreButArrogant! I pulled them down last night to check, 4-wire running in series (one in basement, one upstairs in foyer), and carbon is 4-wire too. I suspect they're due for replacement, seeing as how they're 16 years old at this point (and look like it too).
Question - I have two glass break sensors in the system in the basement. Do those go bad over time? Should i view them in the same light as the smoke detectors and expect to replace them every 7 to 10 years or so?
Tuxedos come today, and can't wait! 20p and components come next week. Planning on spending next weekend doing the project, and really looking forward to the project! I've been painting all winter long, and ready to do something else.
Very easy to swap out, even the mounting screw holes are the same. Took maybe 15 minutes. Not working yet (in demo mode), but at least I can start to see the updated look around here.
Question - I have two glass break sensors in the system in the basement. Do those go bad over time? Should i view them in the same light as the smoke detectors and expect to replace them every 7 to 10 years or so?
I don't know if they go bad over time.
You can buy a test device that makes sound to test the glass break sensors. Personally, I don't use them, I rely on having enough coverage with motion detectors for when someone actually gets into the house. So I wouldn't know if someone threw a brick through a window just to see if anyone was home (not an uncommon method used by burglars in our neighborhood - scouts are often employed).
So, just a little update on progress here. I got to spend some time this weekend on the project.
I'm all wired up. That was pretty easy to do (thanks in large part to the numerous Youtube videos out there). Panels, sensors, expansion board, and vs3 module, all working.
But, ran into a few snags and waiting for a few parts that I didn't realize I need. First: with 4 of these touchscreen panels in play now, in addition to the other sensors and detectors that require power from the board, I've overloaded the control board's power output ability (600Ma). So, an auxiliary power board, transformer and second battery is on the way as we speak. I've also run out of zones (16 so far), since I want everything on it's own zone. So, a second 8-zone expansion board is now on it's way too. I am running out of room in the panel box for everything. I should have 4 empty zones left for future growth someday.
I unhooked 3 of the 4 touchpads, the system came back on. Started down the road of programming the zones, telling it how they're wired and whatnot - and accidentally exited the programming mode with the wrong exit code, meaning the only way to get back in, is to hit two specific keys at the same time within 50 seconds of resetting power to the entire system. Easy enough, except the touchscreens take 3x's longer than the 50 seconds to actually power up before I can get to the keypad feature. So........ cheapest keypad panel delivered yesterday and will be wired in today to get back to the programming steps. $225 for something that can't do the one thing that must be done, which the $40 version can. Murphy's Law.
Regardless of the frustration level, I am very glad I am doing this. I learned something this past weekend about our old system. Basically, the basement could be engulfed in flames and we wouldn't of known about it until smoke had reached the 2nd smoke detector on the 3rd floor. Even though the light on the basement detector indicated all was fine. How do I know this? I tripped the smokes, and only the detector on the 3rd floor would siren. The basement one, even though blinking, would make no sound. Might've been a wiring issue, or an install issue, or just old equipment, but new 4-wire smoke detectors and a new carbon detector should be here today or tomorrow.
So, so far so good for a newbie. Lots of youtube watching as I go and reading things multiple times in the instruction manuals. Certainly not a "plug and play" scenario, but not quite lunar modular programing either (although pretty close).
But, ran into a few snags and waiting for a few parts that I didn't realize I need. First: with 4 of these touchscreen panels in play now, in addition to the other sensors and detectors that require power from the board, I've overloaded the control board's power output ability (600Ma). So, an auxiliary power board, transformer and second battery is on the way as we speak. I've also run out of zones (16 so far), since I want everything on it's own zone. So, a second 8-zone expansion board is now on it's way too. I am running out of room in the panel box for everything. I should have 4 empty zones left for future growth someday.
I unhooked 3 of the 4 touchpads, the system came back on. Started down the road of programming the zones, telling it how they're wired and whatnot - and accidentally exited the programming mode with the wrong exit code, meaning the only way to get back in, is to hit two specific keys at the same time within 50 seconds of resetting power to the entire system. Easy enough, except the touchscreens take 3x's longer than the 50 seconds to actually power up before I can get to the keypad feature. So........ cheapest keypad panel delivered yesterday and will be wired in today to get back to the programming steps. $225 for something that can't do the one thing that must be done, which the $40 version can. Murphy's Law.
Here's something to keep in mind for anybody else who runs into these issues.
A single workaround applies to both the touchscreen power draw problem and the touchscreen boot time problem: you can supply one of the touchscreens from a wall wart type power adapter instead of running it on power supplied from the control board.
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Power supply workaround
