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A more inexpensive crack monitor is a small piece of left over glass. Epoxy it to the wall on each side of the crack. If it breaks, it is still moving.
A more inexpensive crack monitor is a small piece of left over glass. Epoxy it to the wall on each side of the crack. If it breaks, it is still moving.
Either way, if the the OP had a trustable contractor there would've been one there already. IMO having a competent contractor and lifting company is okay, but the OP should actually have a Engineer's report which isn't a conflict of interest as a contractor and lifting company are.
My experience is that pier and beam foundations are easier to repair than slab foundations and usually the repairs are less intrusive and often less expensive.
Just did this at my house.. an addition of one pier and steel beam was enough to stop the house settling in this case.
I am not a civil engineer and I do not live in California, but many homes in NC have foundation problems because of old designs and poor soil conditions. The State law on these repairs requires an engineering survey and plan before the home owner is given a quote. There is no guestimate, it is a formal technical document.
You need your State's equivalent. It sounds to me like you might get a proposal for new piers of poured concrete or concrete block at several hundred up to $1000 a piece.
I am not a civil engineer and I do not live in California, but many homes in NC have foundation problems because of old designs and poor soil conditions. The State law on these repairs requires an engineering survey and plan before the home owner is given a quote. There is no guestimate, it is a formal technical document.
You need your State's equivalent. It sounds to me like you might get a proposal for new piers of poured concrete or concrete block at several hundred up to $1000 a piece.
Up here in maine that's well within the scope of DIY REPAIR, a few bottle jacks and dunnage, then install piers...
but in california, well...i wouldn't be surprised if you needed a building permit to paint a fence.
Watch the Ridgeline on the roof, settling shows up there.
Time is anyone's guess... Earthquake or Water Saturation/Dry cycles can also be problematic.
I have 1920's Bungalows and most structural pest reports call these...
Sometime it is simply a grade issue and installing/upgrading drainage... a 24k bid has been solved for over 20 years now for less than a $800 and my labor.
Also have taken out permits for foundation work... also saved a bundle but lots of grunt work...
If you are on a Hillside or and area with significant movement time is not on your side...
Ok...so I’ve seen multiple foundation companies, received estimates, and I am wondering if there is anyone who has been through a similar experience as mine and how you proceeded.
Background: I have a 1920’s bungalow with original concrete piers supporting the house. Over the years they have been shimmied and reinforcement has been attempted but not to code or by a professional. We have. 2-3 inch slop from the front of the house to the back. There are not large cracks noted throughout the house such as a crack you can fit a quarter into. I’m assuming the settling has continued slowly over time.
My question again is...how much time do I have before I need to repair the foundation? Can I wait till I notice larger cracks? I know that the house may become unsound if I continue to wait...I feel like I’m living in a ticking time bomb. I also live in California and while I’m not near a major fault I worry that an after shock could bring the house down...is that even realistic?
Thoughts?
My house suffered foundation damage in 89 Loma Prieta quake. It sunk about 4 inches on the right side. We got a low interest FEMA loan for 4K to fix it.
My thinking is you're more worried about the cost and I'm betting it's not as high as you think...
Find some places and get some quotes. This is a perfect reason to get a HELOC (home equity line of credit)
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