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I am replacing the faucet and i want to try to reuse the same but i may need to cut it and bend it to the right position. Whats the proper way to cut and bend these lines without cracking them? heat?
thanks
Last edited by andreadebiase; 04-03-2019 at 08:06 AM..
Reason: url change
I am replacing the faucet and i want to try to reuse the same but i may need to cut it and bend it to the right position. Whats the proper way to cut and bend these lines without cracking them? heat?
thanks
They need to be bent around a curved guide to prevent kinking.
You can spend a lot of money on a big professional stand-based tool.
There are various sizes of hand benders that run $25-$100
Or you can get real cheap and just carefully, carefully, carefully bend it around some kind of strong pipe or tube such as an appropriate diameter of PVC pipe.
Edit: LOL. The filter won't allow the word j-i-g, so I changed it to "tool."
I am replacing the faucet and i want to try to reuse the same but...
but... it's not an amateur job.
If you're handy and have the time to practice and otherwise futz around with it all day. Try IT.
Most pro's will use the flex connector (as shown in image above) and move on to other tasks.
It is highly recommended that re-using certain plumbing supplies is a hard- No.
Washers, gaskets, and seating materials (brass ferrules) get compressed to make a water tight seal- but once that seal is broken there is a high likelihood of it not sealing back properly when reattached.
There are several choices for "risers"/connectors- for most DIY'ers the SS flex lines are the simplest way to connect a faucet to supply valves. Just don't overtighten the connections- hand tight, plus a quarter turn is usually plenty for those flex lines.
Last edited by K'ledgeBldr; 04-03-2019 at 11:40 AM..
I wouldn't reuse those little 1/4" lines. If the lines from the shutoff valve to the faucets are soldered to the valve, I'd cut them off at some distance above the valve and use the flexible lines with a compression fitting.
Also, it's just as likely you'll find out that the semi-hard lines are too short, but you'll only find that out after several hours of trying to make them reach up to the connections under the new faucet assembly. So avoid cursing and do it the easy way.
This project will also enable you to make three investments you will NOT regret:
1) compact tubing cutter (harder to use but will get into tight spaces)
2) Full size tubing cutter (I recommend Ridgid brand, but definitely not some el-cheapo thing, get a good one)
3) Basin wrench (this is the thing that allows you to get under the sink and loosen/tighten the nuts that hold the faucet assembly down to the sink).
Frankly, I'd buy an inspection mirror, extendible and with a swivel, at the same time, to reduce the amount of having to stand on your head. I use mine constantly for this kind of job.
Looks to me like you have a valve connected to a 1/2" copper pipe, using a compression fitting.
You could remove the valve, leaving the nut and brass ring on the copper pipe, and simply turn a different valve onto it - one that uses a standard 3/8" flexible sink line fitting.
If you're handy and have the time to practice and otherwise futz around with it all day. Try IT.
Most pro's will use the flex connector (as shown in image above) and move on to other tasks.
Another good idea is to install a quarter-turn ball valve as a shutoff, just before the flexible connector. They're so easy to flip open or closed and they don't have rubber washers to wear out. I flip them closed when I leave the house or go to bed, as I've had a couple of flex-connectors burst open on me and I don't trust them. This includes my toilet and washing machine, as well as sinks. But there's no other way for me to make my connections, without some serious pipe-bending work.
Years ago, there were narrow copper tubes that ran from the shutoff valves in my kitchen sink to the faucets. But they corroded and burst open. If a water line burst while you weren't in the house, it would be the same as if you were hit by a flood, minus the dirt that would come in.
Thank you for the replies. I also don't like to re-use old lines and connections but because the lines from the valve to the faucet is the type soldered to the valve my only option was to bend them gently and adapt them to the new faucet in an attempt to try to remove and replace the valves.
I say WAS because unfortunately despite being careful in bending one of the lines it did crack so they are good only for garbage now. So now, my only option is to replace the valve and of course the nipple is not that long so hopefully i will be able to sit the new valve on the existing ferrule. If not i'll need to dig in to the wall and cut behind the existing ferrule so i can accommodate a new one. The story continues...
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