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Old 10-03-2019, 09:27 AM
 
1,085 posts, read 775,099 times
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Anybody experienced this? Other forums indicate that it is somewhat common for intermittent motor operation to be due to a bad motor. Could it be a bad control board, or do those usually just die and never run again?

My dishwaser drains, fills, heats/drys just fine. More often than not, however, the recirculation motor doesn't kick in, and it just sits there full of water for a few hours before draining and drying. If I change the cycle, sometimes I can goose it in to running. At the end, i get dirty dishes, soap that just flopped out of the soap dish, and a steady "Clean" light and a flashing "Sanitized" light (if I try to run the sanitize rinse cycle).

I pulled the circulation motor out to check for jams and the impeller turned with normal winding resistance. There was nothing jamming it. I've got a replacement motor on the way, but could it be the control board? I don't have easy access to 20/120 to test the motor independently.

The control panel shows normal operation.


Also, helpful hints for others following dishwasher troubleshooting youtube videos:

- Disconnect the water line at your sink, not at the connection under the washer. Turns an hour of struggle into 5 easy minutes.

- Check for a wall plug before taking the youtube advice to unwire your electrical connection. Saves more time and effort.

- Zip ties work as a TEMPORARY hose clamp until you get/borrow the proper tools and clamp. No leaks... at first!
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Old 10-03-2019, 10:13 AM
 
Location: Somewhere in northern Alabama
18,268 posts, read 55,127,441 times
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"If I change the cycle, sometimes I can goose it in to running. "

You just diagnosed a control board problem.
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:00 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
12,890 posts, read 49,851,813 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea View Post
"If I change the cycle, sometimes I can goose it in to running. "

You just diagnosed a control board problem.


I concur!
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Old 10-03-2019, 11:11 AM
 
412 posts, read 735,422 times
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I had a similar problem with my Kenmore DW. Was not sure if it was the wash motor or control board.


I pulled the DW and removed the power connector from the wash motor and applied 120 volts to the pins on the motor connector 3 or 4 times I got a small spark indicating the motor was drawing current, on the 5th try the motor ran.



I felt the pump may have been jammed so I pulled it and found nothing inside to jam it so I reinstalled it. It worked fine for a few weeks then 1 day I found it sitting in the wash cycle without the pump running again. I opened the door then closed it and pressed the restart button.


I do not agree on the control board being the problem, on mine it is defiantly the motor. I did find when the motor fails to start it only draws current for a millisecond then goes to 0. I think there is some electronics involved internal to the motor that makes all the old motor tests I know unusable. The current drop is to fast to be an old style thermal overload protector.



So I go the other way, it is a motor problem not a control board



No go on the first try, I did it 4 more times and the motor started. I figured I should order a replacement motor so I did. That was 3 months ago, the new motor is sitting on the kitchen counter unused and the original is still running fine.



I have no idea what caused it not to start but for now it is working with the new motor waiting to be installed next time the old one malfunctions.


I do not feel this is a control board problem, I feel its the motor as it would not run with 120 volts directly on its terminals. It also stops drawing current within milliseconds when it is stalled, much faster than a thermal overload could function. There is something electronic in the motor causing the condition and rendering all the "Old School" troubleshooting methods I normally use ineffective.

Last edited by kevink1955; 10-03-2019 at 11:27 AM.. Reason: added text
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Old 10-03-2019, 12:39 PM
 
1,085 posts, read 775,099 times
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Thanks for the replies, yall!

Unfortunately, I'm still stuck between the "Control Board" and "Motor" question. Kevink, I agree that it's annoying how it's impossible to test these new motors! What was wrong with coils and a magnet!? What was solved by making them "smart"?

Well, I've got a $150 motor on the way. I guess I'll void the return policy by installing it, and if that doesn't fix the problem I'll be out $150 + the cost of a new control board.
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Old 10-05-2019, 07:20 PM
 
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Wac_432 Please let us know the outcome of the motor replacement and if it cures the problem.



This new stuff defies conventional (old school) troubleshooting



When I purchased this DW in 2014 I asked the saleslady to show me something with knob type timer, She walked away from me when a couple came in and turned down the high end Stainless isle. Later I completed the sale with another sales person, the first saleslady saw me at the register and attempted to make a stink because she made first contact with me.


And people ask me why I buy so much from Amazon !!!
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Old 10-05-2019, 09:08 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
12,890 posts, read 49,851,813 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink1955 View Post
...a couple came in and turned down the high end Stainless isle.

Well, I'd turn down a stainless isle also! I much prefer sandy beach type isles!!!
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Old Today, 10:19 AM
 
1,085 posts, read 775,099 times
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Update:

Probably the motor (actually probably the starter capacitor).

I replaced the circulation pump and it worked like new. I say it was "probably" the motor because I also noticed some corrosion on a connection on the "spray selector" assembly (which spins a little plastic disc to send water to the lower or upper spray arms.)

I scraped off the corrosion and slopped dielectric grease on it to prevent any further water intrusion. I don't know where it's leaking and I don't care. The leak is small and it's falling on concrete. No signs of mold. Just gonna let it drip.

There's a small chance the control logic wouldn't run the circulation pump because of the intermittent connection in the corroded spray selector connection. But probably not. The control board was too dumb to realize it wasn't cleaning dishes when the circulation pump didn't run. It would give me a solid "Clean" light at the end of a cycle, even though there was half-dissolved soap in the dispenser, and dirty dishes elsewhere. So I think the corrosion was it's own [non]issue.

Anyway, motor replaced, problem solved, dishes clean.

Annoyingly, I need to disconnect and flip it one more time because I have to go buy the tool to squeeze the hose clamp into place. I left it zip-tied, and that won't hold forever. Also, I think it's leaking because zip-ties don't apply enough pressure for a good seal.

But at least the big problem is fixed.
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Old Today, 09:18 PM
 
412 posts, read 735,422 times
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Glad to hear you got it fixed, yea for a control with smarts it is really dumb that the machine can go thru an over 1 hour cycle without a functioning wash motor.


Those clamps are a pain, mine is still running with a automotive type gear clamp on the old motor, I just today put the new pump away for another day, told the wife where I put it so if I ever need it I have a 50/50 chance of finding it.
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