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Talltinter, your posts seem well informed. I did a littel research, and I was wondering how to tint the windows in my bathroom, they are the textured non see through type, sort of feels like tiny bb's melted to the glass...thats on the inside, the outside of the glass is smooth....do I need to tint the outside, or try to turn the pane of glass around...thanks
tony...
I installed window film for a couple years and always tinted those types of bathroom windows on the outside. If the film was installed on the inside it was a lifetime warranty, if the outside I believe it was good for 10 years. If you do turn the glass around and are doing it yourself, wrap your hardcard in a paper towel and go over the film with several light passes (so as not to break the window). The textured surface will prevent drying moreso than a regular window so it's important to get as much water as possible from behind the film so it won't bubble up in a few days.
That textured area cannot accept solar control window film. It is too rough for the adhesive to attach. The only thing I could suggest is apply an exterior weatherable window film to the exterior. If you had someone to turn the glass around, there is a huge possiblility of the glass breaking when they try to remove it from the frame.
I know this thread is old, but I am now just starting to research window tint for my home. Goals are to reduce energy consumption and lower glare. We have a 2 year old (so safety and scratch resistant is important) and should be in the home ~5 years... we are tinting ~300 sq ft of dual pane, clear flat glass.
So far, we have had a few options from a few installers - quotes for Huper Optik Ceramic 30 ($6/sq ft), UltraVision ($5), Symphony ($4), IDS ($4), Panorama ($6.30), Palisade ($4).
I have had a couple installers "explain the benefits" of reflective film over ceramic. They explain reflective works better because it reflects the light/heat away, where ceramic is more likely to absorb them. While it seems to make logical sense, the specs of the ceramic seem to stand up to a comparable metal/reflective film. Any insight here is appreciated...
We are looking to maximize the energy/glare reduction without changing the appearance of the window too much (don't want mirrored look from outside). So far, all my research has lead me to the HO C30 film... Also, we have samples of much of the above and HO C30 seems to fit our visual requirements the best. The question is will it meet our energy/glare requirements... Given my goals/concerns, odds are I be happy with this choice?
Unfortunately, we don't have low-e windows... at least they don't say it on the stamp in the corner. The window stamp says "PPG Herculite K" and "Tempered Safety Glass" and then a bunch of numbers/letters, but no mention of Low-E...
The house was built in 2000 and its likely the builder put up the cheapest "builder grade" dual pane windows available.
Even if they were Low-E, we'd like to put up something to do more for brightness/glare. The room with the main problem(s) has 15 windows (5 window "stacks", with 3 windows per stack going up 2 stories). While it lets nice natural light in, it probably lets in a bit too much.
I also received a quote for Llumar (either DR15, DR25, DR35, Soft Bronze 25 or 35) for $7.50. sq ft.
I should probably add that I live in the Atlanta area (Zone 3).
We aren't necessarily looking for the lowest price. We want to balance getting the highest quality film to price ratio (from a quality company with quality installers obviously.) In other words, bang for our buck. We are trying to get more of a polarized/"RayBan" look than the mirrored look, while maximizing glare and energy reduction.
Any help with helping discern between the films and prices is much appreciated.
It all depends on what you want the windows to look like once the window film is installed. You mention polarized, so bronze it out. The Huper Optik films mentioned above will provide you the least amount of backshine on your windows. The DR series is a dual reflective film. It is more reflective outside verses inside. You will notice the higher interior reflectivity at night.
The DR looks good as well as the other dual reflective films you mentioned as long as you don;t mind the added reflectivity.
You mention glare reduction, how much glare are you wanting to reduce? Is it the glare on the TV? A 30% film will not reduce enough glare. It will however soften the light inside the house to be more comfortable.
Have the companies install film on one pane of glass for you to see what everything looks like once installed. That should help make your decision.
Thanks for the reply talltinter. I can tell from your knowledgeable posts you really have a handle on this stuff... while I am completely out of my element.
When you say we'll notice higher reflectivity at night (for dual reflective films), is that inside looking out, vise versa or both? We are trying for the most "natural" looking tint without it being too reflective.... but we want to balance that with it actually being able to do the job.
I have heard so many contradictory opinions and "facts" about reflective vs ceramic that I don't know what to believe. We like the "natural" look of the HO C30, but we want to be sure it'll "do the job." From all the statistics I read, the HO C30 has pretty comparable specs to the comparable reflective films (25/30/35 range films). I just want to make sure the stats are true and seen "in the field" and not some marketing gimmick that is only accomplished under very specific circumstances in some lab.
We have realistic expectations about glare... we know as long as some/any light is let in, there will be some glare. We just want to reduce it as reasonably as possible. We are also (of course) looking for energy savings...
Also, we are now considering doing a decorative tint on a large window (56" x 41") in the master bath so we can keep the blinds open and let natural light in while maintaining privacy. Will it look strange from the outside to have mostly tinted windows except for one frosted/sand blasted/ice decorative window?
Thanks again for everyone's help - we truly appreciate it!!!
Just for the heck of it, I'd call an Armorcoat dealer in your area and get a price on some 4mil Stainless 35, it's all we ever used here in FL except for the occassional clear and it looked great from the inside and out. Also it's as dark as we would go on dual-pane windows here in FL because of the aspect of seal failure.
Are these you prices you were qouted installed or just film only and are they qoutes for 2 mil solar or safety and security? film?
I can undersand your confusion. So many products with different performances.
Everything discussed has been certified by the Certified Products Directory They are an independent non profit outfit that certifies doors, windows, skylites and applied films.
Seriously, I think you should call the two or three companies you are looking at and have them install a sample on your windows. This will be the only way to really decide what best suits your needs.
Wow, I haven't installed 4mil in probably ten years. Not much tensel strength with that thin of a product especially if you are wanting to protect from wind.
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