Electrical question. (washer, Home Depot, water heaters, stoves)

[blindkiller]

I do apologize if this has been answered or asked before, i'm just rather upset and do not have the patience to search for this question.

I purchased a home recently and upon buying new sockets/switches ive found that some of my wiring is copper and some is older copper/aluminum and aluminum/aluminum for the feed and returns. I do know the dangers and risks of having any aluminum wiring in the house what so ever and i am certainly not happy because in the state/county i live in you are not supposed to be able to sell a house with any aluminum wiring.

If my memory serves correct i would need special sockets/switches for the aluminum for oxidation purposes that this increases with generic sockets and switches to aluminum wiring. Or should it suffice for the moment to replace them, make sure the connection is tight, keep an eye on them and later down the road replace the wiring. Which, yes, i already know i should do now i simply do not have the money nor the means to do so at this time.

I already know for fact that there's been instances of arcing in the house at 2 locations. One being the washer/dryer hookup and one in one of the bedrooms. For a simple quick fix i know i can clean them and make sure the connections are tight and should fix the arcing, for the moment. But my main question still being do i need special sockets/switches for these aluminum wiring that's in the house already or will the generic ones work?

Thanks for your time.

[Kootr]

You did not say when your house was built. Aluminum romex was used for a few years in the early 1970s and it was later changed to copper clad aluminum (with copper on the outer diameter making contact with wiring devices). Of course during this period of time straight copper romex was also used, but was a little more expensive than aluminum and copper clad aluminum. The National Electric Code allows the use of aluminum wiring sized #8 gauge or larger, which is used to feed clothes dryers, water heaters, A/C compressors, stoves/ranges, etc. Anything 30 amp or lower now-a-days uses copper only wiring in sizes #10, #12 and #14 gauge. Some local authorities require copper only wire be used, but that's somewhat rare.

If you have aluminum wiring for the receptacles and switches you need to find out if the wiring (for these devices) is aluminum or copper clad aluminum. If it is copper clad aluminum regular devices should be okay. However, if the wiring (for these devices) is aluminum then the devices should be rated for copper or aluminum. Another method of keeping the existing (non-aluminum rated) devices is to add a pigtail using copper wire between the existing aluminum wire and the device using a special wirenut made to join aluminum and copper wires that has a special compound inside the wirenut. Note that during the period when aluminum wire was used for receptables and switches it was unknown that the softness of aluminum wire could cause a poor connection overtime and create arcing. Note also that this problem is not seen with larger gauge aluminum wire. Your local utility uses aluminum to feed your service entrance panel where yoru watt hour meter is located...therefore do not assume that all aluminum wiring is a problem because that is just not true.

I would not be concerned with large gauge aluminum wiring in your house feeding the heavier loads and the load center (panels) themselves. However, I would have an electrician check the device wiring to make sure exactly what kind of wire it is...and also whether your devices are rated for the type of wire you have. Again, the best early indicator of the type of wire you have is when your house was built. If it was built between 1970 and 1980 you could have need for some modifications.

[blindkiller]

Sorry for not including. 1976

But after taking some of the sockets and switches out they were not copper clad. But aluminum all the way through. I have not found any copper clad wires in there yet but seen copper mixed with aluminum and straight copper. I do know the difference, not to imply what you were saying. But i know that they are in fact aluminum.

Thanks for answering the question. Any idea of cost in doing the pigtails? Doing it myself and or contracting ?

[M3 Mitch]

I hate that damn aluminum wire too. But, if you are not "bucks-up", the most practial fix may be to put in the switches etc. made for the aluminum wire, maybe apply some "Noalox" paste, tighten them up good and snug, and call it good.

Good electicians don't work cheap, but if you need professional help it's cheaper than burning the damn place down.

[Kootr]

Originally Posted by blindkiller

Sorry for not including. 1976

But after taking some of the sockets and switches out they were not copper clad. But aluminum all the way through. I have not found any copper clad wires in there yet but seen copper mixed with aluminum and straight copper. I do know the difference, not to imply what you were saying. But i know that they are in fact aluminum.

Thanks for answering the question. Any idea of cost in doing the pigtails? Doing it myself and or contracting ?

Personally I would replace all the devices with new ones made for copper or aluminum wire. They are available in the DIY stores. Doing the pigtail method just adds more connections and uses up space in the boxes, which sometimes are jambed full already. If you have any mechanical skills you can do it yourself very easily. Just do half a dozen each day and you'll have them finished in no time.

[Barking Spider]

First of all, the problems were with the solid conductor aluminum wiring and not the stranded aluminum.
There are two issues with the aluminum wiring. The first one is the sizing. IF they used the same size wire as copper, then it's wrong and unsafe. A 15 amp circuit would use #14 copper wire, but should have #12 aluminum. A 20 amp circuit uses #12 copper and #10 aluminum. A 30 amp circuit (the dryer for one) would use #10 copper and #8 aluminum.

The second issue is not using fixtures rated for aluminum. All fixtures should have markings on them that tell you if they can be used with aluminum wires. Most will have a "cop/al" mark on them. You can use either type wire.

Another problem comes when the two types of wires are spliced together like in a pig tail. If a special wire nut is not used, then the dis-similar metals will react against each other.

Check your fixtures to make sure they are listed for use with alum. wire.
Check the wire sizes to make sure they are the correct size for the amperage used.
Check all connections and make sure they are tight.

[blindkiller]

Originally Posted by Barking Spider

First of all, the problems were with the solid conductor aluminum wiring and not the stranded aluminum.
There are two issues with the aluminum wiring. The first one is the sizing. IF they used the same size wire as copper, then it's wrong and unsafe. A 15 amp circuit would use #14 copper wire, but should have #12 aluminum. A 20 amp circuit uses #12 copper and #10 aluminum. A 30 amp circuit (the dryer for one) would use #10 copper and #8 aluminum.

The second issue is not using fixtures rated for aluminum. All fixtures should have markings on them that tell you if they can be used with aluminum wires. Most will have a "cop/al" mark on them. You can use either type wire.

Another problem comes when the two types of wires are spliced together like in a pig tail. If a special wire nut is not used, then the dis-similar metals will react against each other.

Check your fixtures to make sure they are listed for use with alum. wire.
Check the wire sizes to make sure they are the correct size for the amperage used.
Check all connections and make sure they are tight.

Fixtures purchased were cop. Size is correct from my memory of seeing them they looked like #12 for the 15 amps for regular rooms. As far as the connections being tight, they all are after seeing that i had aluminum wiring i went around first thing to tighten all of them as tight as i could.

Secondly i have the solid aluminum wiring in the house, versus the stranded.

What im planning on doing is contracting an electrician to come in and do all the pig tails and making sure he has the correct wire nut for this, and i was about to post asking what wire nut was required or just go to home depot tomorrow to ask their guy in electrical section.

[GregW]

I take my electrical questions to an electrical supply place that mostly serves the local contractors. I suggest calling a licensed local electrician to do an inspection of your system and make recommendations. If he recommends rewiring the place then do it. Cheaper than a fire. Safer too.

Remove all the covers save some time and money. There is nothing to be gained by wasting his time on unscrewing switch box covers.

[Barking Spider]

The correct wire nuts are purple I think. A good electrician should be able to do it right.

[Kootr]

Originally Posted by Barking Spider

The correct wire nuts are purple I think. A good electrician should be able to do it right.

Just so the OP knows, here is something he should read about aluminum (15 amp & 20 amp) circuit wiring and the use of Ideal 65 (Purple) wirenuts (versus properly crimping) when joining aluminum wire to copper wire.

Ideal 65 Twister Retrofit Aluminum Wiring Connector Update

http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PUBS/516.pdf

The most accepted and perfered way to address the problem of aluminum wiring is to change all the outlets and switches in the house with a special switch & receptacle device designed to accept aluminum wiring at the contact point. This device is referred to as a "CO/ALR" device. If it was my house I would change out all the wiring devices (switches & receptacles).