Best light weight chain saw.... (standard, forced, plywood, buy)

[harry chickpea]

Yeah, I got this Husky from Lowes. You will also need a two pack of proper diameter chain files, a spare chain, 2 cycle oil (the two compartment bottles are easy to use), a 1 gal gas can for the oil/gas mixture, gasoline and Lucas injector cleaner, a pin greaser for the tip sprocket, a gallon of bar oil (get the same brand as the saw to insure the viscosity is right) , a sheath (should come with saw), possibly a spare scwrench (they get lost), a pair of good gloves, and eye and ear protection. Eventually, you'll need a flat file, but not at first. Steel toed boots are good - the first time you drop the butt end of a branch or log on your foot you'll know why. Safety chaps are good, but if you are careful, a pair of heavy pants and long underwear MAY give you a chance to keep from being sliced. Oh yeah, be prepared to bind the bar in a branch or tree. You may want an arborists crosscut saw to release a stuck saw, along with some wedges. Leaving your saw stuck in a tree 20 feet above the ground advertises inexperience.

Start with easy cuts, don't be afraid to make 3 or 4 parallel partial cuts to prevent binding in stressed wood, and always ask yourself which way will this twist, spring or fall when I cut? You need two avenues of escape in case you misjudge. Wood is heavy. If you use a cherry picker, try to cut from above, with the arm away from the likely fall area.

If you can find someone to show you how to properly file the chain, that is good. Putting the bar in a vise and getting a handle on the file can allow you to do a better job. It can be described how to sharpen chain, but you really need someone experienced to show you and give you feedback. If you cut into dirt, your chain will dull quickly and the cutting surface heat and harden. If you cut too long, you'll run low on bar oil and heat your chain. Refill the bar oil about twice per tank of gas. You'll be safer with a little break about that length of time anyway.

[World Citizen]

Originally Posted by harry chickpea

Yeah, I got this Husky from Lowes. You will also need a two pack of proper diameter chain files, a spare chain, 2 cycle oil (the two compartment bottles are easy to use), a 1 gal gas can for the oil/gas mixture, gasoline and Lucas injector cleaner, a pin greaser for the tip sprocket, a gallon of bar oil (get the same brand as the saw to insure the viscosity is right) , a sheath (should come with saw), possibly a spare scwrench (they get lost), a pair of good gloves, and eye and ear protection. Eventually, you'll need a flat file, but not at first. Steel toed boots are good - the first time you drop the butt end of a branch or log on your foot you'll know why. Safety chaps are good, but if you are careful, a pair of heavy pants and long underwear MAY give you a chance to keep from being sliced. Oh yeah, be prepared to bind the bar in a branch or tree. You may want an arborists crosscut saw to release a stuck saw, along with some wedges. Leaving your saw stuck in a tree 20 feet above the ground advertises inexperience.

Start with easy cuts, don't be afraid to make 3 or 4 parallel partial cuts to prevent binding in stressed wood, and always ask yourself which way will this twist, spring or fall when I cut? You need two avenues of escape in case you misjudge. Wood is heavy. If you use a cherry picker, try to cut from above, with the arm away from the likely fall area.

If you can find someone to show you how to properly file the chain, that is good. Putting the bar in a vise and getting a handle on the file can allow you to do a better job. It can be described how to sharpen chain, but you really need someone experienced to show you and give you feedback. If you cut into dirt, your chain will dull quickly and the cutting surface heat and harden. If you cut too long, you'll run low on bar oil and heat your chain. Refill the bar oil about twice per tank of gas. You'll be safer with a little break about that length of time anyway.

Thanks harrychickpea... lots of good information here.

But, Are you trying to scare me???

I just want to clear some small trees and cut up some that have already fallen.

I've already got steel toe boots -- and I'm pretty handy with tools -- but chaps to keep from cutting off my leg???

[Threerun]

I own a Stihl Farm Boss. Best chain saw I've ever owned. I've felled and cut more than 100 cords of wood for firewood, and tons of other brush. Easy to maintain and upkeep and lasts a good long time.

I burned up a Husqvarna after 4 years and 20 cords of wood. I'll never buy another.

Spend the money, get a small Stihl and get the good service that backs it up and you'll never be sorry.

[Cecilia_Rose]

Originally Posted by World Citizen

I need to purchase a light weight chain saw. I've only looked at a few and am wondering if anyone knows which is the lightest weight -- and still a good saw.

Just need it for cutting down small trees and maybe trimming branches if I get brave enough to rent a cherry picker.

I looked at a 16" Echo which said it's "Self Oiling"... and that the Self Oiler adjusts.... it cost a little more but it sounds like a good thing because I know that they require oiling.

Does anyone have any experience with the "self oiling" saws and would you recommend them???

The Echo saws have a 5 year consumer warranty which sounds like they must be pretty good.

So,... I'm wanting a saw that's easy to use, LIGHTWEIGHT... easy to service / change blades, etc... and not too expensive.

Are there any chain saw experts ???

Originally Posted by World Citizen

Thanks harrychickpea... lots of good information here.

But, Are you trying to scare me???

I just want to clear some small trees and cut up some that have already fallen.

I've already got steel toe boots -- and I'm pretty handy with tools -- but chaps to keep from cutting off my leg???

Mr Chickpea always has a lot of good info. This is just one old broads opinion. But I think if you dont know what youre doing I would steer clear of chain saws. Leave them to those who knows how to use them without cutting off a foot or two. . They scare the Beejeepers out of me. Thats why I use a Sawsall (sp?). I have an old electric Rockwell but the newer ones have power packs. I use mine with a pruning blade to prune and cut down small trees. Works for me. I have a LOT of cord. Oh and theyre lighter than a chain saw and you dont have all that mechanical stuff to mess with. Im not very mechancal.

[World Citizen]

Originally Posted by Cecilia_Rose

JMO But I think if you dont know what youre doing I would steer clear of chain saws. Leave them to those who knows how to use them without cutting off a foot or two. . They scare the Beejeepers out of me. Thats why I use a Sawsall (sp?). I have an old electric Rockwell but the newer ones have power packs. I use mine with a pruning blade to prune and cut down small trees. Works for me. I have a LOT of cord. Oh and theyre lighter than a chain saw and you dont have all that mechanical stuff to mess with. Im not very mechancal.

I've got a Milwaukee Tools kind of Sawsall with a rechargable battery. Never thought about using it.

I've got a lot of brush and small trees though. It seems like it would take a long time!

[texdav]

You can never go wrong with a stihl chainsaw.

[Threerun]

Aye- get a Stihl.

I've got a 20 year old Stihl brushcutter / weedwhacker. Last year was the first time I had to have any real work done to it. $100 carb replacement. Big deal.

Marvelous machines, good service, great track record.

[Cecilia_Rose]

Originally Posted by World Citizen

I've got a Milwaukee Tools kind of Sawsall with a rechargable battery. Never thought about using it.

I've got a lot of brush and small trees though. It seems like it would take a long time!

Well do you want quick or do you want to keep your feet. J/k

Seriously theyre pretty fast. They were originally for demo like cutting out studs and 4x4's and other wood stuff. Tree. Lumber. Saw doesnt know the difference. Wood is wood.. Since you already have it Id give it a try. FYI. They have special pruning blades.

Just a thought. If theres a lot of possible firewood maybe somebody will do it cheap for the wood.

Not sure about the power pack ones. A lot of times tools with cords have more power. Most of my stuff has cords cause my power pack stuff died and Im too cheap to buy new stuff so I just keep using m old corded stuff.

[World Citizen]

Originally Posted by Cecilia_Rose

Well do you want quick or do you want to keep your feet. J/k

Seriously theyre pretty fast. They were originally for demo like cutting out studs and 4x4's and other wood stuff. Tree. Lumber. Saw doesnt know the difference. Wood is wood.. Since you already have it Id give it a try. FYI. They have special pruning blades.

Just a thought. If theres a lot of possible firewood maybe somebody will do it cheap for the wood.

I'll look at the pruning blades. But, I'm probably going to get a chainsaw.

And, as long as you have a healthy respect for them,... it's just another power tool.

As far as getting one of the 'good ol boys' to do it for me... I'd almost rather lose a foot.

[Cecilia_Rose]

Originally Posted by World Citizen

I'll look at the pruning blades. But, I'm probably going to get a chainsaw.

And, as long as you have a healthy respect for them,... it's just another power tool.

As far as getting one of the 'good ol boys' to do it for me... I'd almost rather lose a foot.

That is true. Its the ones who dont have respect who get zipped. I have used one but they make me very nervous. Dont laugh but I always lean a small piece of plywood in front of me just incase when I have to do low cutting.

Personally if I got one Id go for an electric one. Being a girl I dont have a lot of upper body strength. Less weight. The gas ones are heavy. Even the small ones. Also no spark plugs or oil changes. And no cords to pull. Since Ive gotten older I have a Hell of a time with anything with a pull cord.