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Oh yuck. I don't envy you. You have to get off all the old paint, and that job is miserable.
Some people try to powerwash off the loose paint, but that drives water into the wood, typically cedar siding. That water doesn't come out for weeks, so when you paint, you are creating a problem.
A propane torch with a flame spreader and a paint scraper is the traditional method, but you need to have a bucket of water and a garden sprayer or spritzer full of water handy for when you set the house on fire. If you have money to spare you can try the paint removal chemicals. Sometimes they work, but any residue is a problem. Another option for some areas is a rotary wheel with metal fingers that attaches to a drill. This WILL ruin any punky or soft wood, but can get off paint that otherwise won't budge.
Once you have all the old oil paint removed, and the surface clean and level, the traditional thought is to apply a waterproof primer. What isn't mentioned is that a waterproof primer forms a complete seal against any water vapor. If the house has moisture in it that tries to get out, it can't, and it condenses on the cold back surface of the primer at night. During the day, the sun beats down on it and that water turns into water vapor. You then get wonderfully huge blisters of paint as much as six or more inches across, especially if the area was a problem with oil-based paints, which can stick stronger than some of those latex primers. It can be better to skip the primer entirely, or substitute a plain white latex paint as a primer.
That is my real world experience, I'm interested to hear what experts have to say.
i got gutters to. that a can get behind .dont know if i should take them down to paint behind or leave up ..i got to have them if not it will back water up in my shop and house.
i got a elect. flat sander but thats alot of work i got 3 weeks off and was going to try to tackle it
You do need to do a proper scrapping. Lots of tools work. I made scrappers out of old truck springs, they are heavy and can be sharpened razor sharp. The trick is to have something that can cut.
Don't need to get all the old paint off, just that which is unbonded.
Lots of debate in what to use as a primer. I would go with a couple coats of high quality oil based primer over all the bare spots, feathering well into the old paint.
Then you do a latex coat over the top. General rule of thumb, you can go latex over oil on the exterior but not the other way around.
No matter what you do the south side of the house will last the least, lot depends on the particular situation. I gave up on painted houses after the last one. Never again.
A flat sander will likely gum up pretty fast. You might almost do batter with a power hand planer set to a very thin setting, but you could gouge the siding if you aren't careful.
Definitely use oil base primer as it is much better as it penatrates the wood more. Personally I use nothing but oil base in enterior woodwoerk as its much more durable than latex. On the outside oil base tends to yellow with alot of sunlight.
i for got to mention my houses outer perimiter is 348 feet.that longer then a football feild. i cant get it all off, prob. just sand the chipped out areas and prime.should i prime everything or just the spots? and use oil base primer?
Bite the financial bullet and hire a good painting contractor. Amateur paint jobs almost always look and last like they were put on by amateurs. Spend the three weeks doing something enjoyable
Just use an oil based primer and a latex finish coat.
Oil seals wood better and provides a more tacky surface for the latex to adhere to. It will last a lot longer than any other way.
Any hardware or paint store will sell a "mildewcide additive" to prevent mildew.
Hope I was helpfull.
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Last edited by Ultrarunner; 02-16-2009 at 04:43 PM..
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You don't have to get all the old paint off
