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Old 04-19-2009, 04:39 PM
 
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Default Paint roller recommendation for smooth walls/ceiling

I was told by a professional painter to use 100% lambswool rollers on smooth walls. Does anybody use them and can recommend them or something else? And, can you buy these at one of the big box stores?
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Old 04-19-2009, 04:56 PM
 
Location: Where I want to be!
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Have not seen lambs wool covers at the box stores, mostly due to price and DIY don't keep them that long. I have used them for years and they are worth the money, go to a paint retail store to purchase them. Other wise go to Lowes or H. Depot and buy a good quality cover, like Woosters, not the 3 for $5 deals. If you clean them completely you will be able to reuse them for a long time.
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:09 PM
 
Location: WA
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The higher quality roller do a better job. Use a shorter knap for smooth walls.
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:29 AM
 
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Thank you both for your replies. I've always used high quality rollers but the smooth walls with streaks always seem to be a challenge for me. I have no problem spending the extra $$ for good roller covers I just feel like I keep doing that and the same problem exists. I use high quality paints such as Pittsburg and Ben Moore so I don't think it is the paint quality --- maybe it is just me
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:39 AM
 
Location: Where I want to be!
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Are you talking about roller marks or a streak in paint, looks like a different color? The streaks are common in a sheen other than flat caused by the way you are rolling the walls. Roller marks are from the pressure you put on the roller.
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:32 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the painter View Post
Are you talking about roller marks or a streak in paint, looks like a different color? The streaks are common in a sheen other than flat caused by the way you are rolling the walls. Roller marks are from the pressure you put on the roller.

I went back and looked at what I've used. I use a flat/matte finish and I can see obvious marks. It is more like streaks on those walls. On walls I painted in the past, after I get the art back up on them, it is not as noticeable - but on walls just painted it is much more noticeable, especially at certain times of day and how the light is hitting the wall. So, I guess this is normal.
Thank you painter for your input!
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:07 AM
 
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One way to help with the streaks is to go in 2 different directions and to keep the roller applicator loaded with a adequate amount of paint and dont pressure that causes the lines from the edge of the applicator
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:40 AM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan and Sometimes Orange County CA
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I had very good success with Purdy White Dove rollers. Wrap the roller in painters tape and then pull it off to remove any loose fluff before you use the roller. Also slightly dampen the roller before you begin.

A good paint job with no streaks or lines is as much about technique as materials. I am no expert, but I recently recieve some instruction from an expert. He said to use a lot of paint and only make one pass up and down from floor to cieling before refilling the roller. Do not roll the paint back and forth. It is ok to feather in the edges with a additional passes before re-dipping. However for the most part it is: roll up, roll back down, dip, roll up, roll back down, dip.

What I learned is that a professional painter uses two or three times as much paint as I normally would in the same time period and obtains a paint job that is five times better than I normally did. I also needed five coats to their two or three to get a really nice looking job. I got better with time, but still not as good as the pros. The key seems to be to resist the temptation to roll back and forth back and forth and spread the paint out all over.

Do not paint a W on the wall and then fill it in. I am not sure where that old painting wisdom came from, but it is a terrible way to paint. Also, do not let the edges dry before you put the next row (?) of paint on or you will get lines between the passes. I was told never never roll in different directions or at angles. Up, down, dip, that is all.

This instruction worked great for me. I got very good results, easily twice as good as I normally did. I have done a lot of painting in the past, but this was the first time that I wanted the paint to be essentially perfect. After seeing how nice the professional job looked in the common rooms, I wanted something of the same caliber.

By the way, bright clors (intense yellow or red for example) will run a lot. It is almost impossible to get a nice job with bright full colors. It takes a lot of coats and a lot of care. Even the pros struggled with the cobalt blue, intenst yellow and bright orange that we used in some rooms.

Another traick is to use really good paint. Not the big box store kind. We were told that Benjamin Moore is one of the best. the stuff at Home Depot and Lowes is junk by comparison. I have also been told that Dunn Edwards top of the line paint is good. There is another one that I cannot remember it is someone's last name. A single word, and it is insalely expensive. Better than Benjamin Moore, but not really enough better to justify the cost unless you are terribly rich.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:30 PM
 
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is it wise to prime flat interior walls before putting on finish ,with keels primer?
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:54 PM
 
Location: Cold Springs, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wudoing08 View Post
is it wise to prime flat interior walls before putting on finish ,with keels primer?
You only need Kilz if you're trying to hold down a stain or discoloration like ink, or water stains. Otherwise, just two coats with any good top coat is fine. I like Glidden Professional Lifemaster 9300, but it is expensive at $37.00 a gallon.
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