From your description. I can fill in many blanks.
This does not include the cost of the lot, or grading or tree removal, if needed. I am assuming the lot is build ready and level with in 1/2" over the build pad site. (I have yet to find one that close)
I would say the home would be in the $65.00 - $68.00 per foot range. It would be 2 x 4 exterior wall construction (not 2 x 6) It would have average 8' ceilings throughout the home, maybe some 9' but nothing higher. This would include a two car garage and about 100 sq ft of covered porches. If the garage is larger estimate $27.00 per square foot for anything over 400 feet. The porches would fall in the same area.
The roof would be a 30 year dimensional asphalt shingle. The windows would be single hung, aluminum (not wood or vinyl as increased cost) and thermal-pane. The exterior doors would be solid core fiberglass 6'8" (NOT 8'0") The interior doors would also be 6'8" hollow core (not 8'0") tile is a little less expensive than real hardwood and carpet is all over the place depending on the weight. You can get really nice carpet for @$20.00 a yard installed. Tile is @$6-7.00 a square foot installed on square pattern (not diagonal) I only allowed for one fireplace and the mantle would need to be reasonable in design. I have built mantles that cost over $50,000.00. The cabinets would be custom ash or oak, your choice. There would be no built ins such as entertainment centers in the game room or theater. The would be no electronics in the game room or theater. I have spent over $80,000 on these items alone. It would be prewired for the equipment. The c-tops in the kitchen would be granite, a reasonable cost of $35.00-40.00 per square foot installed. Do not forget they will charge you for the waste so have them make you cutting boards out of the sink cut outs. (you paid for it you may as well get it) The appliance would be a microwave / oven combination, DW, cook top disposal. You could add a re-frig for another $1,000.00 or so depending on the size. they would be Kenmore.
The house would be prewired for a security system. Most companies will give you the system if you sign a two year contract for the monitoring. That is the only way to go. Some will even pay or give credit for the pre-wire if you upgrade the system. Worth looking into.
The house would have 1/2" drywall ( not 5/8) and a simple texture finish (not hand trowel). It would be solid color paint on the walls and the ceiling could be white (or wall color) NO faux painting.
The house could be brick and siding, 80-85% brick. Stone would have to be done by a takeoff, but add twice what you think it cost.
The bathrooms would also have custom cabinets and cultured marble tops. Moen or Delta fixtures. Kohler is better by long shot but cost more as you know. The tubs would be marble but not whirlpool. Add @$800.00 to each for the option.
The light fixtures would be reasonable. For example something you would find at Home Depot. Of course builders do not get their fixtures from Home Depot but if you go to a lighting store expect to pay three to four times the price. Builders have accounts with light fixture stores with @50% discounts but will not pass that on to the buyers. There is a reason for that. Believe me it does NOT all go into the builders pocket.
As you could imagine it would not include a pool. It would also not include a fence.
There would be no window dressings such as blinds or drapes. The landscaping would be very nice around the front of the house and the yard would be Hydro mulched. Again, I am not talking about three acres but @5,000 sq ft. It would not include any new large trees.
The driveway would be no longer than 25' and no wider than the garage door width. This is NEVER wide enough. So add to this for the future, you will be glad you did.
You would be responsible for ALL the closing cost, taxes, points, appraisals, junk fees, attorney fees, courier fees, title policy filing fees..all closing cost.
This does not include any builder profit or interim interest, interim taxes, Builders risk insurance, builders bonds or any other "soft cost"
It also does not include the permit or road impact fees. It would include hooking up to a city water and sewer line and public power. If the line is underground you would have to add for the burial cost of the conduit as most power companies do not pay for that any longer. The utilities are expected to be available at the front of the lot if not then you will have to pay to get the utilities to your lot.
The roof decking would be plywood and not thermoply. I strongly suggest the upgrade. It will save you thousands over the life of the home. R13 in the walls and blown R30 in the atic. I suggest Blown in wall insulation (up-charge about $2K-$2.5k) and R40 in the attic (up-charge about $875.00) It would not include insulated garage doors or insulating the garage walls or the garage attic. I strongly suggest both. It would include one garage door opener for a single (two wide) door and two remotes.
The A/C & furnace would be 14 SEER American Standard. I very easily equate them to Train equipment. I strongly suggest upgrading to variable speed units and as high a SEER (seasonal energy efficiency rating) as you can find. Right now I believe it is 19 SEER. It is worth every dime. Our home is 10,000 square feet under air, our electric bill averages about $185.00 -$190.00 during the summer. (yes we have other energy efficiency items to help us get that)
This should get you going. prices change every single day so get everything in writing from the subcontrcators. They will charge you a little more than they do builders because builders keep their crews busy all year long as you are just building one house. I recommend setting up a Constrcution business and getting "builders business cards" You would be surprised at how much they will negotiate to get your future business. You and I know it is the "Art of the deal", right?