Having to change air conditioner filter TWICE a month? (grill, heating, smell)

[Omaha Rocks]

Originally Posted by adbl8

Thanks for all the help you guys! The washer/dryer is pretty close to the filter, although it does have double doors to close it off. I don't do too much cooking with oils/pots/pans. Maybe once or twice a week.

I tried calling my landlord but he hasn't called me back yet. Typical.

I also called Home Depot, & one person said it's normal because where I live it is very dry. But, then another said it wasn't normal & that the filter should be light grey to medium grey at the end of the month. *sigh* I don't know...

I don't remember the brand I am using. I know it's supposed to have HEPA, but I don't think it's 3M. I guess I'm just screwed & have to change out my filter twice a month...

Thanks again.

Don't believe anything they tell you at Home Depot. More than likely, you have either a high school or college kid that's just making stuff up as he goes.

[sacredgrooves]

Pet shedding?

[CHTransplant]

Originally Posted by sacredgrooves

Pet shedding?

I have two dogs that sheds profusely and have never had to change filters with that much frequency.

[windtimber]

Originally Posted by sailordave

You said the filter is in the kitchen. Do you do a lot of cooking? Oils and moisture can expand the filter fibers reducing the air flow (moisture expanded filters) and collect more dirt particles (oils).

What brand of air filter are you using? Is it 3M Filtrete? If it is, is it the purple, red, or blue label filter? If it's the purple then you're probably spending more than you need. The purple label is about as close to HEPA as you can get and it can reduce the amount of air flow. The red and blue lable Filtrete is usually about the most you really need. If good clean air is your desire then set the fan from auto to on and let the fan run continously. The compressor will only come on when needed.

This sounds like the most reasonable and logical explanation.

[sailordave]

Just thought of something. if your air filter is that bad then you'd better check the coils under your refrigerator.

[Magnolia Bloom]

I've heard that a Merv8 filter is good. Maybe an HVAC company would have them.

[Padgett2]

I suspect that the previous tenant didn't use a good filter. And as a result, the ducts are full of dust. That's a dandy way for mold and mildew to develop, which is then blown back into the house. A good duct cleaning might make a world of difference.

[BigJon3475]

Originally Posted by adbl8

It is a pleated filter.

That's why. Those 1" pleated filters are the most restrictive thing you could do to your system. I'll bet your system is not made to be using pleated filters. Does it look like the pleated filter is collapsing on itself? If it is your wasting energy and possibly be hurting your system. Just go back to the fiberglass filter unless you want to pay to increase the size of the return grille so you can use a pleated filter. If you go that far you mise well go with the 5" thick filters and only have to change them once a year or so.

[harry chickpea]

There is some misconception about how often a filter change is required. Consider:

WHAT exactly is the purpose of changing a filter?
1. to reduce the restriction of the airflow from a loaded filter. (This also SLIGHTLY reduces energy costs [except in extreme situations, the difference is almost inconsequential])
2. to remove odorous particles that may have been caught.
3. to remove mold spores
4. (and this one is a stretch) to remove any virus spores from an ill person, just in case the filter gets jiggled in such a way that they could be released.

There are no other reasons to change a filter.

The war against pleated filters is questionable. The way to tell if a pleated filter is seriously restricting airflow is to make a homemade manomometer. Take a length of clear plastic tubing. Stick it through a small hole in the pleated filter and make a U shape with wire holding up the ends by tying the wire to the vertical filter. Fill the tube partly with water. See how much the water level changes when the fan comes on. Do the same with a standard filter. If there is significant change, then avoid the pleated filters. If you still want to use pleated filters, find a spot upstream where you can install a filter rack with larger filters that present less restriction.

Just remember that any system is going to have airflow restrictions. Mostly these are in the duct runs, especially if smaller pipe diameters are used. Restrictions in the flow make the motor run a little hotter, and reduce the output of the system. As long as the thermal cutout on the motor isn't activated, the worst effect is the heat of the motor and restricted flow working against air conditioning and slightly increased energy usage.

Now, about when to change filters. The average spun filters DO NOT REACH FULL FILTERING CAPACITY UNTIL THEY ARE STARTING TO LOOK DIRTY! This surprised the heck out of me when I was first told it by a fellow who had been working with big commercial systems for years, and confirmed by another tech.

The dirt and oils create more surface area to catch dust. A lightly dirty filter should not be changed unless there are other issues, like odor or mold. Remember that homemade manomometer? Mark the water level at rest (mark A), so you can refill it as needed. Then mark the level when a new filter is installed and the fan is on(mark B). Then compare the level when the filter starts to load. Once the level is half again the difference between mark A and B, change the filter. That will keep filter replacement costs down, insure the motor isn't lugging too hard, and keep the air cleaner.

[sailordave]

If you use a sponge or polyfiber air filter, there are spray on products, similiar to vegetable oil, that is used to help the filter work more efficiently. Some even smell like wintergreen. They're hard to find but do seem to help when I lived in an apartment with a window unit.