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Old 01-13-2010, 08:31 AM
 
Location: High Bridge, NJ
3,859 posts, read 9,974,152 times
Reputation: 3400

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We have a 1200 SF two bedroom 1 bath ranch with a full basement that was partially finished by the previous owner into an office space. The walls were fully finished (framing, vapor barrier, insulation, drywall, etc...) but there was never any carpeting and a drop ceiling had been installed. It was a usable space but we would like to turn it into a combination family room and office. The major obstacle to making the space really "feel" finished is the ductwork, which like in many homes, runs off of a central trunk line which is routed down the center of the house with the furnace at one end. In my case it runs perpendicular to my basement stairs so that in its current configuration, once you reach the bottom of the steps the supply and return are directly above your head and clearance is about 6' 1" which is claustrophobic for my wife and I both at 5' 10" and an actual obstacle for some of our family members who are 6' 2" and taller. In any event, having the ductwork there and not being able to enclose it will definitely detract from the finished product, so I am committed to moving it somehow.

First it would be helpful to establish what I have so here are two pictures taken from roughly the center of the basement looking toward the outer walls at the ductwork:



In the above photo I'm standing near the basement steps (they are white and can be seen in the lower left corner of the photo) looking toward the furnace. As you can see in addition to my oil furnace we have a wood add-on furnace which is actually our primary source of heat unless we're away from home for an extended period. I should also add that we have central air. The next photo was taken from the same spot facing the opposite direction toward the end of the run:



The supply is on the right and the return is on the left. Both ducts start out as rectangular 8" x 18" and then reduce (the return reduces before the supply) to 8" x 8". Hot air is carried from the main trunk to the registers by 6" round duct. The supply ducts are simply spaces between the joists enclosed by stapling sheet metal over them to form a conduit for air. This can be seen clearly in the second photo. Because it may be hard to visualize the system in it's entirely I've also enclosed a diagram of the system as it is now (attachment D_1) and a diagram of what I envision as the solution (D_2) to this post.

Basically my idea involves shortening the main trunk lines so that they end just before reaching the basement stairs where they will be capped and hidden by a wall. The difficulty of course is the fact past that point there are four registers, two for the kitchen and two for the living room. Currently there are also two returns in the living room as well, but I am not as concerned about them for a few reasons. First, there is a central 14" x 14" return vent in the hallway leading out of the living room to the bedrooms, and each bedroom has it's own return, all of which would be retained. Second, there are no barriers to air movement between the central return and the living room at all. In fact, the two living room returns are currently blocked by a couch because there is no other good place to put it and heating and cooling do not seem to be affected by this. Of course, the return seems to be the simple part-it's delivery that I'm worried about.

Shortening the delivery duct would mean that the four registers mentioned above (two living room, two kitchen) would need to be fed by ductwork which is detoured to either side of the finished space. My thought was to tap four collars into the supply trunk (two on each side) and run 6" round duct perpendicular out to each wall. Upon reaching the walls the duct would turn 90 degrees and run along the wall to the register. These runs along the walls could then be covered by a chase, leaving most of the area barrier free except for the girder, but since it's only about 5" wide it's not nearly as obtrusive as the ductwork. Again, the "before and after" can be viewed in the two attached files. My main concern is the increase in length for the ductwork that will need to detour the finished areas. For example, as it stands now, the far rear kitchen register is a 12' 8" run from the main trunk. My planned detour would increase the run to 28' with a 90 degree bend in the middle. How this will affect the velocity and temperature of air coming out of the register itself I have no idea-I feel like a degree in fluid dynamics (or at least a few introductory HVAC classes) would be extremely helpful right now.

I would perform this work myself since the process of it is fairly straightforward and I can obtain the needed materials at cost, but I'm worried about the possibility of ending up with a cold living room and kitchen because of the long runs. Am I worrying about nothing? Are there factors I haven't considered? Is there a better way?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf D_1.pdf (28.4 KB, 1097 views)
File Type: pdf D_2.pdf (28.1 KB, 801 views)
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:20 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,472 posts, read 66,002,677 times
Reputation: 23616
Where to begin...?
First thing I see, supply trunk line- uninsulated and unsealed (no mastic).
Second, plenum uninsulated.
Thirdly, using joist bays for supplies is a definite no-no. I don't like seeing it for returns either but, it's not as crucial.

I know my HVAC contractor pretty well and have done several lower level finishes. This is how it would turn out;
This would all be insulated flex- From a new plenum (insulated) run two 10" trunk lines, one each to the outer wall. Reduce down to 8". Pickup all the supplies except for the last which will be 6". For the returns- use the same routes but use 8" trunks lines and 8" for the return boots. Use a 12" or 14" for the large return.
And don't forget a supply or two for the lower finished space (you didn't show that in your diagram). I probably wouldn't worry about a return since it's on the same level as the furnace itself.
With everything on the outer walls you have eliminated the headroom issue at the stairs. You have also eliminated an extremely large bulkhead from the center of the space. Now, if you wanted you could frame soffits around the duct work and have a d/wall ceiling. Or frame the soffit all the way around the room to give it a treyed ceiling effect.
Hope this helps.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:41 AM
 
Location: High Bridge, NJ
3,859 posts, read 9,974,152 times
Reputation: 3400
Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
First thing I see, supply trunk line- uninsulated and unsealed (no mastic). Second, plenum uninsulated.
That never even occurred to me. Thanks for pointing it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
Thirdly, using joist bays for supplies is a definite no-no. I don't like seeing it for returns either but, it's not as crucial.
No worries, the joist bays are in fact only returns.

Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
I know my HVAC contractor pretty well and have done several lower level finishes. This is how it would turn out;
This would all be insulated flex- From a new plenum (insulated) run two 10" trunk lines, one each to the outer wall. Reduce down to 8". Pickup all the supplies except for the last which will be 6". For the returns- use the same routes but use 8" trunks lines and 8" for the return boots. Use a 12" or 14" for the large return.
I never thought of doing it that way, but it makes a lot of sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
And don't forget a supply or two for the lower finished space (you didn't show that in your diagram). I probably wouldn't worry about a return since it's on the same level as the furnace itself. With everything on the outer walls you have eliminated the headroom issue at the stairs. You have also eliminated an extremely large bulkhead from the center of the space. Now, if you wanted you could frame soffits around the duct work and have a d/wall ceiling. Or frame the soffit all the way around the room to give it a treyed ceiling effect.
Hope this helps.
This is exactly the advice I was looking for-thanks!
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:36 PM
 
2 posts, read 85,486 times
Reputation: 12
Greetings...I was so glad I came across this thread. I am planning on putting a Home Theater in my family room(basement). The Family room is finished but I have a wide stretch of duct work I would like to relocate as you mention in your post. Would you happen to have any pictures before and after. Also I was unable to view the attached pdf files. I realize this was nearly a year ago. I greatly appreciate any help. My supply and return matches your set. Many thanks!!!!
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:31 PM
 
28,455 posts, read 85,332,804 times
Reputation: 18728
My guess is that the costs for changing out the existing duct work would take up such a signficant portion of the basement remodeling budget that it would be unfeasible. Not saying that the technical solution that K'builder suggested for the OP is not mostly workable (though I worry that the velocity loss by extending the duct would require boosters or a completely resized furnace / air conditioning unit), just that sheet metal work is inherently costly, switching out the furnace might swallow the whole project . If the total basement remodeling project is budgeted for even $15k (which is not unreasonable) and you get quotes from HVAC companies for 30%+ of the budget for just the sheet metal re-do and then another $6k or so for a new furnace would you still proceed?

It might be cheaper to re do the stairs so there is landing that allows the bulkhead for the ductwork to be located in an area that is out of the "traffic zone" at the end of the stairs.

As far as "home theater" the issue may be even simpler -- since light rejection is the goal in most theatre ceilngs simply paint the ductwork flat black...
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:50 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,472 posts, read 66,002,677 times
Reputation: 23616
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey66 View Post
I realize this was nearly a year ago.

Two years ago.
Badfish is still active on C-D- send him a PM.
But, since that was his only question concerning the project- my guess is nothing ever happened.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:41 AM
 
2 posts, read 85,486 times
Reputation: 12
Many thanks to those who responded to my question, certainly taking in consideration it was as you stated a 2-year old post. I greatly appreciate your assistance.
Blessings to all....Mickey66
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:41 PM
 
1 posts, read 31,779 times
Reputation: 10
Any help with reducing from the vents when framing the exterior walls? they r six inches and I wanted to reduce to maybe go through floor Joyce on the outside structure to get them back to the vent. as the openings changed on the outer perimeter due to the two by four? [email]Jayman2379@gmail.com[/email] any help would be appreciated! Thank you
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