Carbondale, Illinois or surrounding area? (Springfield, Marion: renting, new home, employment)

[deeptrance]

Thanks again for all the responses and info, ratbert. You write well and provide all the best types of info needed for people to get a sense of where you are and who you are. I bet I would really like you and your hubby. But enough of this saccharin talk, back to the issues!

What you said about your commute sounds really nice. I can see, though, where the Amish on the road could be dangerous if you've got blind curves or hills and might suddenly come upon someone going 3 MPH blocking your lane. I'm glad you're welcoming them, though. Hopefully they're not "weird" in a cultish way. They've become an accepted and colorful part of the lower Great Lakes states, seem to be well-liked, but I'm sure some of their compounds harbor some very dark secrets as with any closed society.

Moving from Houston, I have to ask if it's a shock to adjust to what must be a very cold day today? I've been enjoying the change here in Austin, we dropped from 77 after midnight to 32 with a 20 wind chill by sunrise and it was invigorating. But that's still a lot warmer than what you're probably experiencing. And you get some temps below zero! Have you had any of that yet? I know it's not something that happens every winter but it's inevitable one of these years...

[Chloe07]

The word "commute" doesn't really seem to apply here! It sounds more like a scenic meander into or out of town, waving at passers-by in their buggies, rather than gridlock. I wouldn't be concerned about "traffic" and college students anyway. In any college town, I think it's a given that some students won't know how to drive, people get impatient, and you want to watch out for drunk drivers on weekends, which for students often start on Thursday night.

Again, thanks to those who are responding. This is really good information for us to have as we consider possibilities.

[chisoxfan]

As a graduate of SIU, I grew to love the Carbondale area and hated to leave when I graduated in the early '80s. I especially liked some of the differences between the southernnmost part of Illinois and other areas of the state -- such as a four-season climate without copious amounts of snow (spring and fall are glorious!) and natural beauty with lakes and forests. Giant City State Park south of town offers some of the most rugged terrain I've seen outside the Appalachians and the western U.S.
SIU is about to spend hundreds of millions of dollars on a project called "Saluki Way" that will transform the campus over the next five years or so. It should be an exciting time in the area.
Having grown up in Chicago, about the only troubling thing was that sometimes I felt like Carbondale was the end of the world. But in this day and age, that's probably a good thing.

[deeptrance]

Originally Posted by chisoxfan

....a four-season climate without copious amounts of snow (spring and fall are glorious!) and natural beauty with lakes and forests. Giant City State Park south of town offers some of the most rugged terrain I've seen outside the Appalachians and the western U.S.
SIU is about to spend hundreds of millions of dollars on a project called "Saluki Way" that will transform the campus over the next five years or so. It should be an exciting time in the area.

Wow... I'm SOLD! Except I'm being sold on some other forums (especially threads about SW Missouri)

Originally Posted by chisoxfan

...sometimes I felt like Carbondale was the end of the world. But in this day and age, that's probably a good thing.

Well said and oh-so-true. I think that's part of why I'm looking at these central-USA places that don't get the attention of the more "happening" parts of the country. I kinda just want to enjoy nature, nice people, some decent weather and good food, and be left alone. I won't harm anyone, and I don't want anyone to harm me, that's about all I ask.

[sunshine girl]

My husband was born and raised in carbondale and we raised our now grown children just south in Jonesboro, so I can answer anything you need except current housing market, we have been gone for 4 years now. Left there, moved to Sarasota, FL, and now have sold there and have moved to Springfield MO area. The area is beautiful and laid back, but since coal mining shut down over the past 10 years, the economy has nosedived. That is the biggest reason we no longer choose to live there. The two biggest employers are SIU and Memorial Hospital of Carbondale. Both excellent places to work both for salaries and working conditions, but folks tend to get into a job and basically stay till they die, so choice openings are seldom available, and even then they usually are given to someone's relative/friend before being posted to the general public.The schools are excellent, and it is an excellent climate in which to raise children. My kids regularly attended ballet and orchestral performances at SIU. And St. Louis is an easy drive for even more culture. Do not stray too far from Carbondale for outsider exceptance though, outside Carbondale is the land of "you're not from here". But, nothing happens without someone noticing, so in a weird way, it's very safe anywhere there. Be glad to answer anything I can for you, have been busy with our selling and moving, and I have been without internet service for 3 weeks now, so I'm catching up on my favorite sites tonite. Good luck, and I'll help anyway I can to answer questions for you.

[deeptrance]

Originally Posted by sunshine girl

Do not stray too far from Carbondale for outsider exceptance though, outside Carbondale is the land of "you're not from here".

You mean, if you walk into a restaurant in one of the nearby small towns, everyone stops talking and stares at you? That creeps me out, I hope that's not what you're saying.

[ratbert]

Glad to see some other folks joining in...

Thanks for the nice words Deeptrance. I'm sure we would get along well. Actually I grew up south of Buffalo NY, just over the Pennsylvania border, so the weather here is a perfect compromise. I missed the four seasons, but hated the long winter. It is generally only about 10 degrees cooler than Houston on any given day. And we only get snow occasionally....just enough that it's still pretty.

Speaking of the "commute", one thing no one has mentioned is that if you like to cook, this is "foodie" heaven. Before I get to the orchard, I pass a nice winery, then a guy who commutes as a bush pilot in Alaska, bringing back wild salmon, then a green house. Then after the orchard (apples, peaches and nectarines) I pass someone who sells yard eggs, then one of our many local farmers who is a regular at the Saturday market. There are also Farmer's markets on Wednesday in Carbondale and Tuesday in Murphy. You don't just get fresh green beans, you get Blue Lakes or Wonders or Jades. And they are dark GREEN, not greenish-yellow! Dozens of varieties of squash and tomatoes. Ever eaten a wine grape? You will never be satisfied with Thompson seedless again! I heard today my new neighbors plan to expand into other areas...I'm hoping that means cheese.

As for student drivers, Chloe, most of the bars are located along "The Strip" within walking distance of campus. And the town keeps a pretty tight clamp on "liquor sales." So you don't hear about too many problems there considering.

Deeptrance, I haven't been stared at anywhere that I can recall, well maybe one place way up Route 1, but then it turned out my husband once knew the barber and we were suddenly family. We were even welcomed into the Carbon Lake Club, a sort of glorified fishing cabin with a bar, where all the old-timers out our way meet on Sunday for a pot luck or to play cards on Friday nights. Last time we went it was for a chili supper to raise money for someone's house that burned down.

Which reminds me, Deeptrance, I realized I didn't really say why it reminded me of Austin, but I think it's just the liberal/artsy college, in an area full of natural beauty. But Carbondale is also sort of an activist town, although it's more about "active" than "activist." No PAVE here. I honestly can't think of anyone I've met here who isn't active in some sort of organization helping others in one way or another. As but one example, every Spring a whole bunch of groups come together to raise money for World Hunger. And while we don't have Eeyore's Birthday Party or a Spam Cook-off, we do have the Vulture Fest in Makanda and concerts at Salt Petre Cave!

Sunshine Girl you are right about the economy. Jobs can be tough to come by, but there is a big push toward growing Internet businesses and it seems every day I talk to someone else who moved back and is starting their own business.

[GirlGeek]

I have lived in Carbondale since 1984, came here for graduate school and never left...except for a year in Austin (1988) doing an internship at UT. I sure can tell you living in Carbondale after a year trying to get into Austin on the MoPac is a joy!

Carbondale certainly has its funky side, with the ex-hippies in Makanda, the artists, the spirituality groups, the labyrinth, the music scene.

What I like most about living here is the low cost of living, the outdoor beauty, the nearness of metro areas, if you need to "escape" for a day trip (St. Louis, Evansville, IN or Paducah, KY) and the small town feel and friendliness.

I'm blessed to have the type of business where location doesn't matter, as I have clients all over the country...all from little Carbondale! Who'da thunk it!


Annette
http://www.GirlGeekWebDesigns.com

[Chloe07]

I can't tell you how grateful I am for all these wonderful responses. To hear you all tell it, it sounds like we should run, not walk, to Carbondale! But that still remains to be seen.

Looking at the real estate websites, it appears that there are some beautiful areas in Murphysboro, all situated around lakes. Are there any Murphysboro homes that attend Carbondale schools? Because it looks like the Carbondale schools perform better on the tests.

I love that so many of you find similarities between Carbondale and Austin; I left Austin over 20 years ago and I still miss it!

[ratbert]

Chloe, let me check with a couple people on the school districts. One of my favorite subdivisions in Carbondale is Heritage Hills. It doesn't have a lake (I don't think), but the land and the lots and the houses are just lovely and very close to SIU. In fact, I noticed a house for sale there yesterday across from a friend of mine. There is also a lovely subdivision off of Boskydell near Giant City Road. And there's one called "Lake Chatauqua" I hear a lot about.

Also, keep in mind if you are interested in a lake, many places here have private ponds. We share a 3.5-acre "pond" with our neighbors and in winter we overlook a much larger "pond" to the back. In fact, our pond has an island and a beach. Now you know why the kids love to come visit! Most of the really big lakes have been left undeveloped, so the only real "lake living" (similar to say Travis) is Lake of Egypt near Marion.

Those who know the area better than I, please feel free to correct me here.