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Old 09-13-2014, 09:01 PM
 
Location: Johnson City, TN
677 posts, read 1,064,733 times
Reputation: 463

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wombattver, I'm sorry your time in Johnson City so far hasn't been great. I'm assuming your kids are going to Johnson City schools? I'm curious what subdivision you are in as I know many in town do have a lot of young families and are within walking/biking distance of schools and shopping. I live in the tree streets (neighborhood between ETSU and downtown) and there are tons of kids, a very strong neighborhood organization that sponsors many activities, and a great sense of community.

In terms of schools have you looked in to University School? It is a K-12 laboratory school on the ETSU campus and free to attend. Enrollment is based on a lottery system and applications are accepted in the Spring for the following year. It is a year-round school and is very good academically. PM me if you would like more information.

I know Johnson City and the Tri-Cities in general doesn't have the amenities of larger cities but for the size of the city, I feel like we do pretty well. I am from Cincinnati originally and moved here for college 8 years ago. I liked it so much I decided to stay.

ETSU really gives Johnson City a little extra spark and there is are a wide range of activities here if you are willing to dig a little bit. Johnson City Community Theater, Jonesborough Repertory Theater, and ETSU all put on great plays. ETSU also has some great art exhibits and the Reece Museum on campus is a hidden gem. ETSU sports are fun to attend and there will be a football team on the field next fall. if you are in to baseball, Johnson City Cardinals (rookie league affiliate of the St. Louis Cardinals) games are great. Outdoor activities abound (check out the recently opened Tweetsie Trail), and you should visit a couple of the local corn mazes this fall.

Johnson City's downtown is experiencing a big rejuvenation and exciting things are happening. Check out the farmers market on Saturday morning and have dinner at Tupelo Honey. For a city of its size in the middle of Appalachian Johnson City is quite diverse with this being most apparent in the wide variety of restaurants. Traffic is not an issue and almost any retail need can be met. Taxes are low and schools are great with good services provided by the city. The beautiful scenery and great weather is a bonus. It really is a great place to live and raise a family.
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Old 09-13-2014, 10:44 PM
 
Location: A Yankee in northeast TN
15,966 posts, read 20,935,892 times
Reputation: 43221
Quote:
Originally Posted by wombattver View Post
It is beautiful here - the scenery, the weather, etc. I also look forward to the seasons. I've only been here for 7 weeks, so maybe it's still just adjustment issues and things will improve, but it's been a rough start. Maybe we just haven't settled in yet, or maybe it's just not my cup of tea - not sure yet. It seems like a beautiful place to live, but the day-to-day living, the schools, the lack of activities has been difficult for us. I've lived in PA, RI, CA (LA and SF) as well as Singapore and Australia, so I do know what it's like to live in very diverse places. This has been the hardest move I've ever done, though I know the ages of my kids have a lot to do with that. Sorry to be such a Debbie Downer, but wanted to give my honest opinion.
Aren't you the same poster that was on here months ago questioning the higher prices of homes here vs Phoenix? If that was you then I think you're simply unhappy about having to make the move to begin with, and that is bleeding over to how you feel now.
Do agree that expecting anywhere near the same level of activities and options as you'd find in a much larger place like the Phoenix metro is pretty unrealistic.

If you are interested in after school clubs or classes for your daughter, have you considered starting one yourself? I was actively involved in helping to run such a club (and later my teenage son started a few similar clubs at nearby elementary schools) and it's a great way to meet people and make new friends. 'Be the sense of community you want to see.'
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Old 09-14-2014, 06:20 PM
 
125 posts, read 165,434 times
Reputation: 134
Hey, all - as I said, I know I come off as a Debbie Downer and it's not my intention to complain so much as to point out to the OP how different things are and what h/she might find. I found many honest responses here when I was doing my research and found it generally helpful even if it wasn't all roses and rainbows.

Jim37680 - yes, we are/were quite aware that this place is not Phoenix. We were not expecting Phoenix, we did do our due diligence and we could see that things would be vastly different here. Some of it is not a surprise, some things (like groceries) are surprising. Sometimes you have to make decisions based on the job opportunities and we have all tried to make the best decisions for the family.

Houses are more expensive here, but the house we found is very nice. We didn't have a whole lot of time for house hunting, so we made the best decision we could, knowing we wanted JC schools. I am surprised to find that the "local" elementary school requires a drive on the freeway - but that is a factor of everything being so much more spread out when compared to crowded Phoenix. The school is Towne Acres and I am very pleased with it and the principal seems wonderful. Many of my husband's co-workers said they really liked this subdivision and suggested we look here, although none live here - they said it was a newer one and they would like to live here.

DubbleT - I am just trying to share my experience with the OP in an honest way. There are many things about this move that have been difficult, but we are trying and some of the things we were looking forward to have not panned out as we had hoped. I have signed up for many PTA groups and am hoping to be active in that way and find other ways I can contribute. I can be shy - I am still finding my feet and trying to figure things out and fit in.

Rangerred - thank you for the information. We had looked into the University School, but were too late for the 2014 lottery application, so we may apply for next year. I think it seems a good fit for my daughter, but maybe not so much for my son. We are way out near Jonesborough - Gates at Highland Ridge. Since it was in JC schools, I expected to feel a bit more central, but now I realize how spread out JC really is and I see that we are farther away than I had previously thought. Just not something you can tell until you spend some time here.

We have found some Farmer's Markets, Friday night music in Jonesborough town square, visited Bays Mountain, signed up for soccer and a kid's acting program at JRT and will hopefully settle in better over the next 7 weeks. Again, it will take some time to seem like we're home, and I wanted to post an honest response to the OP. Perhaps our story can help the OP and others to avoid our difficulties and have more realistic expectations. Best to all!
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Old 09-14-2014, 09:06 PM
 
Location: Tri-Cities, TN
185 posts, read 287,296 times
Reputation: 177
I am pretty sure I have an idea of where your subdivision is. I'm confused as to why you are going all the way out to 26 to get to Towne Acres. Is it just a traffic/timing thing? Why not just take Knob Creek all the way down here to closer to the school? Granted, it still isn't walking/biking distance to the school, but doesn't require going out to the interstate.
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:57 AM
 
141 posts, read 296,297 times
Reputation: 114
I had many locals tell me they use the interstate to get around, even for short hops. Its great for saving time. I did the same for my second visit. Its a great asset IMO. There is always an alternate route not using the Interstate if you choose so. The older routes were there first, WAY WAY before the interstates.
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:55 AM
 
Location: Tri-Cities, TN
185 posts, read 287,296 times
Reputation: 177
Quote:
Originally Posted by polizzio View Post
I had many locals tell me they use the interstate to get around, even for short hops. Its great for saving time. I did the same for my second visit. Its a great asset IMO. There is always an alternate route not using the Interstate if you choose so. The older routes were there first, WAY WAY before the interstates.
Oh I do as well, but I've found a lot of cut through streets that depending on the time of day, will get me to certain areas of town much faster than others. We live in a fairly central location to most of the north side of town. There are usually at least 3 different ways for me to get to places and depending on what time of day, it will determine which of those I use.
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Old 09-15-2014, 09:50 AM
 
Location: TN/NC
34,848 posts, read 30,922,246 times
Reputation: 47163
Quote:
Originally Posted by wombattver View Post
We just moved here (Johnson City) from AZ. If I'd had the choice, I would have gone to Knoxville or even Nashville. Our house here is more expensive than a comparable house in Gilbert, AZ, groceries are more expensive with very little choice and variety, gas is cheaper, but I am going through twice as much because things are so spread out. We are missing a lot of the recreational perks of being near a big city - sports, theatre, fine arts, zoo, museums, a wider variety of kid sports and activities. We wanted to be in this school district because it was rated high, but I am less than impressed, especially with the middle school. No sports, no after-school classes and clubs, very difficult to meet people and make friends. I hear the high school is good, but my kids are 9 and 11, so that's a ways off.

I am also missing the sense of community - in AZ we'd go to the school bus stop and meet up with 30-40 kids and their parents. First day of school here, we excitedly went to the bus stop and there were 2 kids, both high schoolers. What a disappointment. My 10 yr old was on a bus for 45 minutes with high school kids... not fun for her and now I drive her to and from school. The first day of school, she didn't get home until 2 hours after dismissal! I don't like that I need to get on the freeway just to get my kids to school - no riding bikes or walking! We are in a big subdivision here - not way out on farmland - but we've found no one my kids ages in the neighborhood. It's just been disappointing all around and a much harder adjustment than when we moved to AZ.

It is beautiful here - the scenery, the weather, etc. I also look forward to the seasons. I've only been here for 7 weeks, so maybe it's still just adjustment issues and things will improve, but it's been a rough start. Maybe we just haven't settled in yet, or maybe it's just not my cup of tea - not sure yet. It seems like a beautiful place to live, but the day-to-day living, the schools, the lack of activities has been difficult for us. I've lived in PA, RI, CA (LA and SF) as well as Singapore and Australia, so I do know what it's like to live in very diverse places. This has been the hardest move I've ever done, though I know the ages of my kids have a lot to do with that. Sorry to be such a Debbie Downer, but wanted to give my honest opinion.
The city of Phoenix alone is over 500 square miles - unless you were just puttering around your neighborhood or small suburb, I can't possibly see how you'd be driving more than in Phoenix unless you are living in one town, but working in some other town. I live near Indianapolis, and it's about 25 miles just to go HALFWAY around the interstates that loop around the city. No single city in the Tri-Cities is spread out to the degree Indy is, much less Phoenix. The only one that I think comes close is going to the Speedway to exit 7 in Bristol.

The cost of some things is rather shocking. Groceries are extremely expensive in the Tri-Cities (lack of competition also means lack of selection). Car insurance on my 2013 Elantra with only speeding ticket in the past five years ran nearly $900 every six months (!) applying on my own without the State Farm multiline discount. Here in Indiana, it's about $400 every six months for the same level of coverage. Still, you have no state income tax, can cross the VA line to save on sales tax, and property tax is reasonable.

Sports, theater, and zoos aren't usually going to be found in a metro of maybe 500k, at the very broadest definition. As I've said before, the Tri-Cities does NOT act like a metro of this size - the little towns compete, they don't cooperate. I lived in Des Moines, IA for a year, and even though it's barely bigger than the Tri-Cities, it acts as one metro, and thus you have a zoo, sports (no majors), and more culture than you'd ever find in the Tri-Cities.

The Tri-Cities is an aging area, and local government seems to cater to retirees, not working people with kids. Even when I was a kid fifteen to twenty years ago (28 now), there weren't a lot of other kids in my immediate neighborhood, and it's only gotten older since then. Why would you expect a lot of walkable neighborhoods in a low-density area?

When I was in middle school, I rode the bus with high schoolers because we all started at around the same time - I'd say it's simply a scheduling thing, and once again, there aren't enough kids to justify another bus run for those closer in age. I have a hard time believing an area middle school has no sports, no clubs, and absolutely nothing going on. Granted, you aren't going to get the same selection or quality you will in Phoenix, but there should be SOMETHING for them to do. I went to the Sullivan County schools (not great), and we always had sports or a little something to do.

I think you underestimated the impact going from a high-growth, major metro that is attracting people of all types to an isolated, aging collection of small towns.
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:49 AM
 
Location: Seattle
7,504 posts, read 17,118,456 times
Reputation: 4768
I went to a rural high school in Greene County and always had an after school club. There were sports too. I find your claim about the schools a little ridiculous.

In general, living in the Tri-Cities is about making the absolute most out of everything that's there. If you want animals, head to Bright's Zoo on the 11-E in Telford/Jonesborough, or Rocky Mount to see some area history and the sheep. OR - and this is a big one - maybe you guys could take a weekend and hike some of the Appalachian Trail, so you could see animals the way they live naturally, not stuffed into some idiotic cage so your kids can appreciate "nature."

Sports - try supporting the Tusculum Astros in Greeneville, the Redbirds in JC, or ETSU is starting up a new collegiate football program. Appy State and UTK have strongly-supported sports programs. It's a drive, but guess what - you're driving through the beautiful countryside to get there, especially towards Boone. So combine that trip with a side jaunt to Grandfather Mountain or the Mast General Store - boom. A day full of 'homespun fun.'

Like I said... get creative. I grew up just outside the Tri-Cities, and after a couple moves now live in a town of 4,000 people in a "metro area" (not defined as such) of around 35k. This has definitely led to me being creative and optimistic about recreational opportunities. Trust me... makes the Tri-Cities look like an amenity-wonderland...
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:55 PM
 
Location: Johnson City, TN
677 posts, read 1,064,733 times
Reputation: 463
Thought I would just throw in that their are walkable neighborhoods in all three of the Tri-Cities. Since I live in Johnson City I will use that as an example. Where I live in the tree streets I can easily walk/bike to at least 10 restaurants and bars, a neighborhood store (the Shamrock, check it out) or get my growler filled at one of the 20 beer taps at the newly opened Roadrunner market. Not to mention any event at ETSU or Downtown. An added bonus is I can bike to the newly opened Tweetsie Trail for a scenic ride to Elizabethton. The elementary school is also located within the neighborhood.

There are also bus stops throughout this part of Johnson City and while it would be a huge burden, it is even possible to get by, at least temporarily, without a car as Johnson City does have an ok public transportation system that will take you to all the main shopping areas. Unfortunately night and weekend hours are limited.

While this type of living is the exception in this region, understand that it does exist. The central and southern parts of Johnson City are probably the most walkable/rideable areas in the Tri-Cities.
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:56 PM
 
Location: Tri-Cities, TN
185 posts, read 287,296 times
Reputation: 177
And with regard to ETSU sports, has anyone been following our Men's and Women's soccer teams? Not only do they have a fabulous stadium, but they are doing awesome so far this season. ETSU (besides football) has decent teams for most of the other sports.

Then add in cheering for the local High Schools too. Science Hill is blowing away their competition so far. Who says pro sports have to be the only fun that can be had watching? I personally think more folks around here could jump in and develop local pride in these various teams.

Theater? There are several groups in the area, at least one in each city that does productions. The ETSU Performing Arts program has many things listed here: ARTS @ ETSU as well. We have the JC Symphony (https://jcsymphony.com/#home) and the JC school systems has a fantastic Orchestra program. They start kids in that as early as 5th and 6th grade.

A few other links:
http://www.etsu.edu/etsuhome/artsEntertain.aspx
Southern Dozen | Home (These are "motorcycle" drives, but can just as easily be done in a car. We have taken our kids on several.)
https://www.facebook.com/jcparkstn (Parks and Rec - check out the Princeton Arts Center).

I've lived in several places with my kids over the years. Because the Army tends to not have their posts near large cities in most cases, you sometimes have to get creative in finding kids stuff. I've always been able to find more things than we have time to do. (We also lived in AZ, down in Sierra Vista, while my husband was at Ft. Huachuca. I DO miss AZ, but not for the same reasons as you. Sierra Vista is definitely not a booming metro, but I loved it there. We plan to retire and stay here in JC, but will be spending some time when we can travel more, back out there.)
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