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Old 03-09-2012, 01:12 PM
 
Location: Suffolk County
827 posts, read 3,093,809 times
Reputation: 281

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocafeller05 View Post
The quoted insulation can be bought at Home Depot for $10.00 a roll and it covers 31 sq ft. I just did mine in October.
I still dont see what they are doing costing that much. Why not just shop it around? I did my whole attic for $400.
I thought it was pricey but wanted to list everything out for you to see if you thought...maybe they had rhyme to their reason. I do plan on shopping around. I wish my husband was able to do the work himself but he had a kidney transplant in 2005 and is unable to do things like this b/c it's bad to breathe in the insulation. I remember when I was a kid my father doing our house. I know it's easy to do..that's why it would kill me to pay so much $$ to get it done with the prices I was quoted.

Thanks for your opinion. I appreciate it.
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:30 PM
 
Location: Suffolk, LI
405 posts, read 1,769,873 times
Reputation: 128
I don't know--I'm impressed. That is a wonderful detailed list of everything required for the job. 10 hi hats? I'm guessing this is because you have recessed lighting in 10 spots that isn't rated for direct insulation contact? Kudos to them for itemizing that and including it in your quote. NOT ONE of the quotes we got included that; I had to figure it out myself--AND we replaced our cans ourselves too, so it wasn't included in our costs. I also didn't have any ductwork to seal, attic stairs/openings to seal (they cut holes in my ceilings and we just drywalled back over them), etc. Your job sounds much more complicated. The $8K plus still seems outrageous, but now I'm less shocked by the $4K total. Are they actually installing a bath vent fan too? I had that done recently (totally separate from my insulation) and that alone cost me $700.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:34 PM
 
10 posts, read 15,876 times
Reputation: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by LIgirl74 View Post
I will have to look into this and see the cost difference. So you are saying I can get this done instead of the insulation itself? It basically does the same thing?
Correct, this would be done instead of insulation.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:52 PM
 
Location: Suffolk County
827 posts, read 3,093,809 times
Reputation: 281
Quote:
Originally Posted by procfreq View Post
I don't know--I'm impressed. That is a wonderful detailed list of everything required for the job. 10 hi hats? I'm guessing this is because you have recessed lighting in 10 spots that isn't rated for direct insulation contact? Kudos to them for itemizing that and including it in your quote. NOT ONE of the quotes we got included that; I had to figure it out myself--AND we replaced our cans ourselves too, so it wasn't included in our costs. I also didn't have any ductwork to seal, attic stairs/openings to seal (they cut holes in my ceilings and we just drywalled back over them), etc. Your job sounds much more complicated. The $8K plus still seems outrageous, but now I'm less shocked by the $4K total. Are they actually installing a bath vent fan too? I had that done recently (totally separate from my insulation) and that alone cost me $700.
I still think it's high. Yes, to insulate by the high hats, you have to put something over them so there is no contact which would heat the insulation and cause a fire. Yes, it did include installing a new bathroom vent..for my bathroom on the lower level which insulation has nothing to do with. They told me they aren't allowed to do the job unless it is vented out. I have no idea why.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:10 AM
 
Location: Astoria
6 posts, read 10,917 times
Reputation: 11
LIGirl, you got an average price. If you are unsure which contractor to pick, ask to speak to the crew leads, they are the boots on the ground and you want to make sure your crew knows what they are doing.
Duct and air sealing will make a comfort difference in your home. Unsealed ductwork will leak air pressure, if your air handler is in the attic and its unsealed you are essentially blowing a portion of your A/C into the attic and not your living space. Picture your ducts as a straw and your'e trying to drink through it, if its got holes in it you're going to lose most of the drink before it gets to your mouth. Same with duct work, duct seal it and its keeping a higher air pressure, making it more effective. Air sealing is basically caulking around your windows/doors/floors/etc to stop drafts. The catwalk to your air handler is to enable service men to reach it. I think 4 hours of air sealing and 2 hours of duct sealing are the only things listed that seem a bit extensive. Maybe 2 hours of air sealing and 1 of duct are more realistic, then again I don't know the size of your house or the difficulty of the work, so they might know something I don't.
Fiberglass batts are terrible for air sealing and only mediocre for insulation. Spray foam is best at both insulation and air sealing... but it's expensive and might not be the best solution in all cases. Cellulose is cheap and effective, the middle of the road solution. I recommend spray foam over anything as far as effectiveness goes, but some folks just don't have the cash for that, even though it will pay for itself over time.

Slacker is correct in that if you keep the space (whether attic or not) with your air handler in it temperature regulated it obviously wouldn't have to struggle against the extreme temperature ranges that might occur in your attic. Spray foaming a roof is great, but if the roof is not ventilated it will get extremely hot and you will wind up with the tar shingles melting. Any spray foam contractor should know that, it's a very particular and technical job so those guys usually know their stuff.

Rocafeller, "OP, you def got ripped off". Really? That's funny because it appears you have no knowledge whatsoever regarding weatherization work. You paid for $10 a roll fiberglass batts and paid a total of $400, I'm sure you got what you paid for, terrible air sealing and mediocre insulation. If you read the rest of the improvements that LIGirl listed you'd see what they are doing that costs that much.



Why do contractors charge what they do for weatherization work? Contractors in this line of work can drop over a quarter of a million in equipment alone before they even do their first job. While the work can be profitable, like anything else its not as much as you might think.

As far as pricing.... LIPA has general prices that almost all BPI contractors use, if they do alter the prices its not by much. Prices are built into the LIPA software, so every contractor in the home performance program has a general idea of what everyone else is charging. It's one of the few kinds of work where contractor prices are not going to vary much. It's also one of the few kinds of home improvements you can do to your home that will eventually pay for itself in savings versus what you were paying previously.

Let me be clear on this, your chances of being ripped off under the home performance programs is extremely low, unless you are really just a terrible person and the contractor gives you an "eff you" price. LIPA, NYSERDA, and Conservation Services Group look at every job to an extent, they have to approve the rebates remember since they are paying for 50% of it. They don't want to waste their money any more than you do. Oversight groups from LIPA, CSG, and NYSERDA will examine and in some cases re-audit a percentage of BPI contractors work to ensure quality control. If you screw up or get caught cheating someone you are out of the program, which means as a company you're probably out of business.
Your only concern should be that when you have your initial audit done that contractor is giving you all the available options to you as a homeowner to decrease your utility bills and not just focusing on services they particularly provide (like insulation).









Quote:
Originally Posted by rocafeller05 View Post
The quoted insulation can be bought at Home Depot for $10.00 a roll and it covers 31 sq ft. I just did mine in October.
I still dont see what they are doing costing that much. Why not just shop it around? I did my whole attic for $400.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:21 AM
 
Location: Astoria
6 posts, read 10,917 times
Reputation: 11
You can't vent a bathroom into the attic with cellulose for health and safety reasons. Thats a LIPA guideline. If a contractor did their work without fixing that, they could lose their affiliation.


Quote:
Originally Posted by LIgirl74 View Post
I still think it's high. Yes, to insulate by the high hats, you have to put something over them so there is no contact which would heat the insulation and cause a fire. Yes, it did include installing a new bathroom vent..for my bathroom on the lower level which insulation has nothing to do with. They told me they aren't allowed to do the job unless it is vented out. I have no idea why.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:33 AM
 
Location: Astoria
6 posts, read 10,917 times
Reputation: 11
All contractors MUST give you an itemized list per LIPA. If your auditor missed boxing out hi-hats but recommended cellulose, that's terrible. Cellulose conducts electricity, thats a major no-no.

Replacing your cans was unnecessarily expensive unless you just wanted it done. Most contractors will box them out with drywall (not my favorite method). You can buy hi-hat covers from most manufacturers for anywhere around $5 to $15, throw them over the cans and then you just need to maybe put a notch in them for wiring and spray fire rated foam around the base





Quote:
Originally Posted by procfreq View Post
I don't know--I'm impressed. That is a wonderful detailed list of everything required for the job. 10 hi hats? I'm guessing this is because you have recessed lighting in 10 spots that isn't rated for direct insulation contact? Kudos to them for itemizing that and including it in your quote. NOT ONE of the quotes we got included that; I had to figure it out myself--AND we replaced our cans ourselves too, so it wasn't included in our costs. I also didn't have any ductwork to seal, attic stairs/openings to seal (they cut holes in my ceilings and we just drywalled back over them), etc. Your job sounds much more complicated. The $8K plus still seems outrageous, but now I'm less shocked by the $4K total. Are they actually installing a bath vent fan too? I had that done recently (totally separate from my insulation) and that alone cost me $700.
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:18 PM
 
Location: Suffolk, LI
405 posts, read 1,769,873 times
Reputation: 128
Replacing my cans cost nearly nothing and was a total DIY job with some phone advice from my electrician. I figured "better safe," and just took care of it myself before the job. My contractor actually DID box out the hi-hats (even though I replaced the cans for direct contact) without my asking--it just wasn't itemized in the quote. He also wasn't a LIPA contractor nor did I get any reimbursement from LIPA for the work I had done, to be fair.
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:22 PM
 
Location: Inis Fada
16,966 posts, read 34,702,389 times
Reputation: 7723
Quote:
Originally Posted by LIgirl74 View Post
I will call Delfino. Thank you. I also have CAC run up there so I am thinking maybe that will make it more expensive? But $8,000 total for a ranch just sounded insane to me.
Delfino can be pricey and (from past experience) sometimes forgets to add things on to the bill.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:03 AM
 
2,851 posts, read 3,473,399 times
Reputation: 1200
Most of that work can be done by an amateur within a day. I'd buy a "bunny suit" (white coverall suit) from HD or Lowes for the ability to chuck it in the trash after you're done with the insulation.

Insulation is cheap. Might be a little work to find insulation wrap. Get some plastic duct tape.
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