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Old 11-10-2017, 03:58 PM
 
40 posts, read 41,974 times
Reputation: 68

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kbinspections View Post
Ahhhh....... radiant is absolutely the way to go! Expensive to install but its worth it if you have the coin.
If youre going radiant, then you definitely have to get a modcon high efficiency boiler. They are more or less designed around radiant. They will work with forced hot air, or baseboard but if you have radiant heat and a modcon tuned right, especially with the outside sensor, youre looking at solid 95% efficiency.
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Old 11-10-2017, 05:19 PM
 
Location: Suffolk
397 posts, read 509,484 times
Reputation: 513
I went from an 10 year old forced air furnace with terribly undersized ductwork to a well designed radiant system with the outdoor reset sensor...

My gas bill dropped 35%.

(I did replace a few drafty windows at the same time, so that definitely contributed to the savings)
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Old 11-11-2017, 07:58 AM
 
Location: Stony Brook
2,897 posts, read 4,380,090 times
Reputation: 2752
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkfast View Post
If youre going radiant, then you definitely have to get a modcon high efficiency boiler. They are more or less designed around radiant. They will work with forced hot air, or baseboard but if you have radiant heat and a modcon tuned right, especially with the outside sensor, youre looking at solid 95% efficiency.
A Modcon with 10:1 turndown will work just fine, and close to 95% with Alumfin baseboard. Proper programming is necessary. An 80k BTU unit in my house on the warmer days operates as low as 8k BTU. The key to a Modcon is proper programming to get to run most of the time, at its lowest output. Most "plumbers" just install it, and leave. This is the reason a Modcon have a bad rep. You need a proper QUALIFIED plumber that knows the ins and outs of a Modcon. Btw, I replaced an old 150k btu oil fired boiler. Talk about OVERSIZED!
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:21 AM
 
40 posts, read 41,974 times
Reputation: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzook View Post
A Modcon with 10:1 turndown will work just fine, and close to 95% with Alumfin baseboard. Proper programming is necessary. An 80k BTU unit in my house on the warmer days operates as low as 8k BTU. The key to a Modcon is proper programming to get to run most of the time, at its lowest output. Most "plumbers" just install it, and leave. This is the reason a Modcon have a bad rep. You need a proper QUALIFIED plumber that knows the ins and outs of a Modcon. Btw, I replaced an old 150k btu oil fired boiler. Talk about OVERSIZED!
That’s exactly what happened to me. Guy installs it, cranks the water temp to 180 and leaves. He said he works on lots of them but that don’t mean jack. I went in and did some research and configured it myself. Best I can do is 150 on the temp with a forced air system. Any lower and it short cycles on startup. Long story. It’s not perfect but it runs pretty well and I’m getting decent condensing action as a pretty steady stream of drips of water out of the neutralizer when the unit is in heating mode.

Overall, yes. You must have a modcon pro install these thing. Know of one?
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:13 PM
 
764 posts, read 1,546,535 times
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I was told the reason why high efficiency arent worth it is because the computers on them die all the time and the money you spend fixing them makes them more costly then getting an less efficient one.
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:41 PM
 
3,423 posts, read 5,644,541 times
Reputation: 2422
Quote:
Originally Posted by manekeniko View Post
The utility ran the pipeline to my house for free. They do that to attain a new customer.
Only if you have the main in the street or are in 150 feet of main. Else you get 150 for free and you pay something like a $1000 a foot for the rest of the way.
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Old 11-16-2017, 02:29 PM
 
Location: Suffolk
397 posts, read 509,484 times
Reputation: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by majortom1981 View Post
I was told the reason why high efficiency arent worth it is because the computers on them die all the time and the money you spend fixing them makes them more costly then getting an less efficient one.
That's usually the lie told by old school installers that dont want to deal with new technology.
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:29 AM
 
40 posts, read 41,974 times
Reputation: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by agw123 View Post
Only if you have the main in the street or are in 150 feet of main. Else you get 150 for free and you pay something like a $1000 a foot for the rest of the way.
I paid $2,000 to move mine almost 40 feet. Call National Grid, they are quite helpful.
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Old 11-19-2017, 10:40 AM
 
3,423 posts, read 5,644,541 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkfast View Post
I paid $2,000 to move mine almost 40 feet. Call National Grid, they are quite helpful.

I'm 2500 feet from the nearest main. Grid wanted an obscene $25K
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Old 11-19-2017, 05:23 PM
 
Location: Stony Brook
2,897 posts, read 4,380,090 times
Reputation: 2752
Quote:
Originally Posted by agw123 View Post
I'm 2500 feet from the nearest main. Grid wanted an obscene $25K
Obscene? 2500 feet is half a mile. What did you expect?
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