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Old 06-05-2010, 06:11 AM
 
78 posts, read 181,345 times
Reputation: 44

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Hi,

We are a family of 4 members coming to LA for a year. I am thinking to buy a car then resale it by the end of my year. So, what is the best way to buy the car in LA??

Do you recomend to go for dealers or to look for it online?
What kind of cars can get for $8000 - $9000?

Thank you,
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Old 06-05-2010, 01:08 PM
 
Location: Los Angeles
249 posts, read 404,331 times
Reputation: 105
You would save money through a private party.
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Old 06-05-2010, 02:20 PM
 
Location: LA
6,216 posts, read 11,837,948 times
Reputation: 2562
if you have cash for a purchase i would go through a private party. craigslist is a good site to start looking.
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Old 06-05-2010, 04:43 PM
 
Location: Southern California
1,395 posts, read 971,498 times
Reputation: 157
If you go through a dealer, don't buy it in LA because the sales tax is 9.750%. Ventura's rate is 8.250%. Every tax rate is different depending on the county... it's not the same rate throughout CA.

Here's the website that lists all the cities and their tax rates.

California City and County Sales and Use Tax Rates - Cities, Counties and Tax Rates - California State Board of Equalization
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Old 06-06-2010, 06:10 AM
 
78 posts, read 181,345 times
Reputation: 44
thank you all for your comments...

so, if I go through private party that means I am not going to pay a tax... is that right?
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:13 AM
 
1,589 posts, read 1,984,042 times
Reputation: 975
No, if you go through a private party, sometimes they will write a lower sale price on the DMV paperwork so you don't have to pay as much in taxes. But, this can come back to bite you in the butt if anything goes haywire with the seller and you have to file some sort of a complaint with the DMV. I've had to do this.

I think also that you pay the tax rate based on where you live, not where you buy. If you live in Ventura Co. but buy in L.A. you pay 8.25%.

Craigslist can be a good tool but there are a lot of scams on there. If you see a bentley for $10k, it's 99.9% a scam.

autotrader.com is pretty good for searching as well. Look on edmunds.com for car buying tips and also use kbb.com as a reference for price. Although in my opinion kbb is quite inaccurate, it is unfortunately the standard measurement.

You may also want to pay for a membership on carfax.com to get vehicle history reports. Really, it only shows incidents that have been reported to insurance so it's not the end all be all to a vehicle's condition.

Lastly, I would recommend finding a trustworthy mechanic and taking the car for a pre purchase inspection. Any respectable private seller should agree to this. You can have an unbiased review of the vehicle's condition and if there are any repairs that need to be done, you can use them as a bargaining tool with the seller.
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:24 AM
 
78 posts, read 181,345 times
Reputation: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bungle View Post
No, if you go through a private party, sometimes they will write a lower sale price on the DMV paperwork so you don't have to pay as much in taxes. But, this can come back to bite you in the butt if anything goes haywire with the seller and you have to file some sort of a complaint with the DMV. I've had to do this.

I think also that you pay the tax rate based on where you live, not where you buy. If you live in Ventura Co. but buy in L.A. you pay 8.25%.

Craigslist can be a good tool but there are a lot of scams on there. If you see a bentley for $10k, it's 99.9% a scam.

autotrader.com is pretty good for searching as well. Look on edmunds.com for car buying tips and also use kbb.com as a reference for price. Although in my opinion kbb is quite inaccurate, it is unfortunately the standard measurement.

You may also want to pay for a membership on carfax.com to get vehicle history reports. Really, it only shows incidents that have been reported to insurance so it's not the end all be all to a vehicle's condition.

Lastly, I would recommend finding a trustworthy mechanic and taking the car for a pre purchase inspection. Any respectable private seller should agree to this. You can have an unbiased review of the vehicle's condition and if there are any repairs that need to be done, you can use them as a bargaining tool with the seller.

[SIZE=3]Thank you very much,[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]It is very helpful comments[/SIZE]
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Old 06-10-2010, 02:03 PM
 
148 posts, read 242,365 times
Reputation: 99
I would NOT buy a car in LA. Try to look for cars in Ventura County or Santa Barbara.

First before you buy a car. Get your self a CarFax account so you can see the history of the vehicle by running the Vehicle Identification Number. Make sure the car has been in California and have never been in a state that has snow/salt will cause frame rust. Dont even look at a car that was in Florida or in other states that have flood. Only buy a car when the history show it has been in Sourthern California. Check the CarFax report for salvage title, accidents, and potential Odometer roll back report/issues.

The reason why I will not buy a car in LA because most of the cars in LA stuck in traffic all the time and moving at parking lot speed put wear and tear on the motor and drive train. Someone may tell you all the miles are "freeway" miles but are they really "freeway" miles when you move 10mph and day in and day out stop and go.

Also check out Edmunds.com for True Market Value instead of Kelly Blue Book over inflated value. Look for cars that have no more than 2 owners. When you buy a used car, dont always buy the cheapest deal you find. A lot of time I will pay more and find cars that have consistent service record/history. A car that has been serviced regularly will ensure the greater chance of less things break down when it is in your hands. I will ask people when the last time they had the belts changed, what is their oil change interval, does the car pass smog, any tuneups. Ask them if they had any Government recalls done. Check the government recalls website for problems with your car and you can get it fix for free at the dealer.

Sorry If I miss something here maybe others can add to the list. I have bought and sold many many cars and and caliber of cars I buy are usually high end luxury cars. If you have any questions please let me know. Hate to see you stuck with a Lemon.

If you dont want to do alot of leg work then just buy a pre-owned certified car or check out Carmax. Carmax is also overpriced but they offer a warranty and you will have peace of mind.

If you want to buy a decent car $8,000-$9,000 for your family then check out Honda Accord $8,000 - $9,000. You are in the ball park for a nice 2003-2006 Honda Accord sedan. Since you are going to sell it eventually the Accord will hold its value better. Accord are also in demmand on the used market so you will not have a problem selling it. Since the 2003-2006 Accord has already dropped to $8K-$9. The next 3 years drop the price of the car will be $5-$6K. So you will lose $2,000 to $3000 to able to drive a car for 3 years. That is less than $1000 a year to use a car.

Last edited by 24hr7; 06-10-2010 at 02:13 PM..
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Old 06-10-2010, 06:58 PM
 
1,876 posts, read 2,452,581 times
Reputation: 1420
Autotrader.com and cars.com are your best friends. Personally, I'd get like a Honda Civic or Hyundai Elantra or Hyundai Sonata in the sub-$10k price range. The Honda's will typically be 5 or 6 yrs old & the Hyundai's maybe a yr younger, but these are very reliable workhorses that can go over 150k without transmission problems.
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Old 06-11-2010, 11:09 AM
 
1,589 posts, read 1,984,042 times
Reputation: 975
Quote:
Originally Posted by 24hr7 View Post
I would NOT buy a car in LA. Try to look for cars in Ventura County or Santa Barbara.

First before you buy a car. Get your self a CarFax account so you can see the history of the vehicle by running the Vehicle Identification Number. Make sure the car has been in California and have never been in a state that has snow/salt will cause frame rust. Dont even look at a car that was in Florida or in other states that have flood. Only buy a car when the history show it has been in Sourthern California. Check the CarFax report for salvage title, accidents, and potential Odometer roll back report/issues.

The reason why I will not buy a car in LA because most of the cars in LA stuck in traffic all the time and moving at parking lot speed put wear and tear on the motor and drive train. Someone may tell you all the miles are "freeway" miles but are they really "freeway" miles when you move 10mph and day in and day out stop and go.

Also check out Edmunds.com for True Market Value instead of Kelly Blue Book over inflated value. Look for cars that have no more than 2 owners. When you buy a used car, dont always buy the cheapest deal you find. A lot of time I will pay more and find cars that have consistent service record/history. A car that has been serviced regularly will ensure the greater chance of less things break down when it is in your hands. I will ask people when the last time they had the belts changed, what is their oil change interval, does the car pass smog, any tuneups. Ask them if they had any Government recalls done. Check the government recalls website for problems with your car and you can get it fix for free at the dealer.

Sorry If I miss something here maybe others can add to the list. I have bought and sold many many cars and and caliber of cars I buy are usually high end luxury cars. If you have any questions please let me know. Hate to see you stuck with a Lemon.

If you dont want to do alot of leg work then just buy a pre-owned certified car or check out Carmax. Carmax is also overpriced but they offer a warranty and you will have peace of mind.

If you want to buy a decent car $8,000-$9,000 for your family then check out Honda Accord $8,000 - $9,000. You are in the ball park for a nice 2003-2006 Honda Accord sedan. Since you are going to sell it eventually the Accord will hold its value better. Accord are also in demmand on the used market so you will not have a problem selling it. Since the 2003-2006 Accord has already dropped to $8K-$9. The next 3 years drop the price of the car will be $5-$6K. So you will lose $2,000 to $3000 to able to drive a car for 3 years. That is less than $1000 a year to use a car.
While I appreciate that your information is meant to be helpful, I can't help but ask if you've ever driven in Ventura County? Traffic exists there just as much as Los Angeles. Buying a car that has previously been in another state is fine. So long as you have a mechanic inspect it and make sure there is no rust. I'm not sure if you were around earlier this year but parts of Los Angeles flooded, including some cars. Buying a car that has been in "L.A. traffic" is fine too, so long as the owner is able to provide maintenance records to prove the car's service history. I will NEVER take someone's word for it. I've been screwed over ($4k engine rebuild) by taking a licensed dealer's word for it.

As I stated in my previous post, Carfax is a great tool but not always 100% accurate. Hence my suggestion for a PPI by a qualified mechanic. It doesn't matter where the vehicle is from! Check to make sure it meets CA emissions, make sure the frame is not bent, check for accident damage repair and the quality. etc... etc... Edmunds has a car buying guide. Edmunds does offer price assessments however, as I stated before, KBB is the standard.

My intention is not to flame or slam 24hr7, I just think your information, while trying to be helpful, is slightly flawed.
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