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Continuing my explorations of Louisville. Here are a few places from over the extended Thanksgiving weekend:
Nachbar
This was a first attempt to see what live music venues are like outside of the Ruyard Kipling. I went there because it got a favorable mention from LEO’s LGBT columnist a few issues ago, because it’s part of this new Germantown scene, because they had some sort of dark beer thing going on for Black Friday, and because it had a live band playing that sounded interesting. Turns out it also got a staff pick in LEO for that day. Oops. It seems every hipster in the city was there. It was packed.
I quickly gave up my plan to move to the back of the bar and watch the band. Amazingly enough I snagged an empty barstool, so pretty much camped out at the bar. Gave me a chance to scope the place out a bit. I notice the staff was top shelf. Real pros in handling the crowd. No attitude. Talked a bit to one of the bartenders about the beer I was drinking. Talked to one of the customers, asked if it was always this crowded. He said usually later, so this tells me this is a popular spot.
As for the beer they had a good selection of hard-to-find stuff, but pricey, which is the case nowadays for better beer. Noticed some of the customers were drinking PBR and mixed drinks. I’m pretty sure they did have Campari on their top shelf, which is a good sign as this is hard to find in generic bars. Though I think this places’ main deal is their beer selection.
The place seems newer. It’s a one story building with a patio in front, which was being used even on that cold night. Not like a corner store type bar you’d usually see in Germantown. But it is also in the middle of a residential area, so parking means a walk. I parked at the end of the long block of Charles north of the bar, so a bit of hike to the bar & back.
Would I come back? Maybe. But maybe more of a drinking place than a music place? I liked the crowd, actually. Always more fun in a crowded place, the contact high, I guess.
Theatre Square Marketplace
This was by accident. When I’ve been returning to Louisville I drive into the city from Valley Station and take these long walks in the older neighborhoods. This time I ended up downtown, around lunch, and noticed this place, in what I remember was an old theatre that used to show this tourist movie on Kentucky. I seem to recall the place advertised somewhere, so went in, thinking it was more of a sandwich shop. It did have a deli/quick order thing in front, but also had a coffee stand in the old box office (I think), and a small specialty foods section.
Behind this “front of the house” stuff was this true restaurant, with waiters and such. It was in this big two-story space, with windows looking down from the upper offices (I guess). Very unexpected. Lighting was via these huge fabric lampshade-looking things. At the far end was a little bar with what looked like a mirror behind it.
Turns out this was no mirror but a glimpse of a second room. The bar was circular and the back faced more of a lounge area, low ceiling, softer lighting, very nice interior with a little waterfall or fountain in the middle and a white grand piano (like one of those Liberace used to play). I figure this would be a great place to go after, say, the opera or symphony, since a suit and sport coat for men and dresses for ladies would be entirely appropriate for this space. Very uptown.
Back to the restaurant. I didn’t want much so ordered a salad and some ricotta ravioli. The salad was actually fairly big, and had some sort of unusual mix of things. Very good. Ricotta ravioli was interesting, with the cheese inside rather than the usual meat). Not really a foody, but I liked that salad. One thing that should be noted is the service. This was some of the best service, very attentive. Never had to ask for a refill for the water or coffee.
I want to try this place again.
Scott’s Gap Loop
I ‘ve also been doing some hikes out in the hills of SW Jefferson County. This trail is part of the Jefferson Memorial Forest. It’s a good intro to the Forest as its not as long or rugged as some of the other trails nor is it as easy and short like that paved trail at Tom Wallace Lake. I had hiked it when it first opened, and this return was a measure of how out-of-shape I’ve become.
The first part of the trail climbs to the ridgeline of Miller Hill, and then s fairly level as it heads west, really just ridge-running (except for some saddles between the high points). There are little overlooks over the Bearcamp valley to the south and, further west on the trail, a view opens up to the north, over the Blevins Gap valley toward Moremans Hill and Dodge Gap. When up on Millers Hill one can glimpse the hazy blue ridgeline of Pendleton Hill in the distance to the south, through the trees. This is a quintessential experience of hiking the Memorial Forest in the fall and winter, being able to catch glimpses of distant ridges and hills, sort of hazy and blue, but you’re still in a close forest. The same experience can be had in Waverly Park and perhaps in Bernheim Forest.
The return back to the parking area is the real grind as the trail descends down this shadowy hollow or valley, following a watercourse, then heads east across the foot slopes of Miller Hill. The nice thing about this is that one is hiking in a southern exposure, so there is usually plenty of sunlight, not the darker, shadowy, north slopes of the hill. But it’s still an up-and-down climb as one crosses the footslopes and intervening hollows or ravines, with one final climb back up to the ridgeline before returning to the parking area.
I should note that this trail is easy to reach by car from outside of SW County, as its an easy drive from the Stonestreet Road interchange.
Awesome post, I really like your idea of exploring offbeat places in Louisville. I've never hiked Scott's Gap, but I've done the McConnell Loop and the Siltstone Trail. Both are very nice, as is pretty much all of Jefferson Forest.
Keep posting, would love to hear about some of the hole in the wall drinking establishments around town.
Awesome post, I really like your idea of exploring offbeat places in Louisville. I've never hiked Scott's Gap, but I've done the McConnell Loop and the Siltstone Trail. Both are very nice, as is pretty much all of Jefferson Forest.
Keep posting, would love to hear about some of the hole in the wall drinking establishments around town.
Nachbar is far from a "hole in the wall." It is more of an old locals bar converted to a hipster "dive." The place is always packed every weekend. As far as music, it is better to see a show there in the summer when the patio is open. There are tons more places to try in germantown. Jeff, I think you would enjoy Monkey Wrench. And I am sure you know about places like Hideaway Saloon in the Highlands? There was a great LGBT bar in the Highlands called Pink Door but they might be closed? Next time in germantown, you will have to try Zanzabar. That I think it is up your alley. there are certain shows at Uncle Pleasant's that you would likely enjoy, and of course you know about the great coffee at Sunergo's. As an urban neighborhood, although germantown is a quartenary type urban neighborhood as far as density and activity after Highlands, Crescent Hill, and Clifton, I still think the area more urban and aesthetitically pleasing, and more hip than what I deem as the primary urban hipster mix match district in Dayton, the Oregon. One thing about the Oregon is that it has a better music scene than can be found in Germantown, but IMO, it is more hip than Oregon. Let's not even mention Highlands, Crescent Hill, Clifton, Old Louisville, etc.
With regards to downtown, I am kind of surprised you did not know about the development in the old KY theatre. That block of fourth street is doing just fine. It is really the Seelbach block of fourth street as well as Main street between 1st and 2nd street which are really pathetic and an embarrasment to the city IMO. They are trying to clean up both those blocks but it is slow going.
I've never hiked Scott's Gap, but I've done the McConnell Loop and the Siltstone Trail. Both are very nice, as is pretty much all of Jefferson Forest.
Both are real workouts. I hiked the McConnell Loop years and years ago and still remember what a rollercoaster that was. Up and Down. That was one of the rougher trails. Siltstone seemed to do a lot of ridge running except for the gaps at Bearcamp and Scotts Gap and that maze of hollows and ridges around Tom Wallace & Jefferson Hill. I'm trying to remember how that trail crossed Jefferson Hill Road. I do remember the Siltstone wasn't a loop so after you hiked it one way, you had to hike it again all the way back.
The place I'd like to explore again is Horine. I was there back in the 1970s when it was a scout campground, but now that its open to the public as part of the Memorial Forest I'd like to see what trails they have opened. Leaving the ridgetops the place turned pretty quick into rugged backcountry, from what I recall.
Louisville is a real hikers paradise since there are some great backcountry trails here, including that long distance Knobstone Trail in the Clark State Forest in Indiana; trailhead is at Deam Lake, I think, and it heads north up to the Salem/Scottsburg vicinity. I know there is that Louisville Hiking Club (who have their own bus), but not sure if they do a lot of local hikes.
I ‘ve also been doing some hikes out in the hills of SW Jefferson County. This trail is part of the Jefferson Memorial Forest. It’s a good intro to the Forest as its not as long or rugged as some of the other trails nor is it as easy and short like that paved trail at Tom Wallace Lake. I had hiked it when it first opened, and this return was a measure of how out-of-shape I’ve become.
The first part of the trail climbs to the ridgeline of Miller Hill, and then s fairly level as it heads west, really just ridge-running (except for some saddles between the high points). There are little overlooks over the Bearcamp valley to the south and, further west on the trail, a view opens up to the north, over the Blevins Gap valley toward Moremans Hill and Dodge Gap. When up on Millers Hill one can glimpse the hazy blue ridgeline of Pendleton Hill in the distance to the south, through the trees. This is a quintessential experience of hiking the Memorial Forest in the fall and winter, being able to catch glimpses of distant ridges and hills, sort of hazy and blue, but you’re still in a close forest. The same experience can be had in Waverly Park and perhaps in Bernheim Forest.
The return back to the parking area is the real grind as the trail descends down this shadowy hollow or valley, following a watercourse, then heads east across the foot slopes of Miller Hill. The nice thing about this is that one is hiking in a southern exposure, so there is usually plenty of sunlight, not the darker, shadowy, north slopes of the hill. But it’s still an up-and-down climb as one crosses the footslopes and intervening hollows or ravines, with one final climb back up to the ridgeline before returning to the parking area.
I should note that this trail is easy to reach by car from outside of SW County, as its an easy drive from the Stonestreet Road interchange.
That trail is hell on hills (play on hell on wheels lol ) I did that once. ONCE LOL definately for the advanced LOL Beautiful though.
Both are real workouts. I hiked the McConnell Loop years and years ago and still remember what a rollercoaster that was. Up and Down. That was one of the rougher trails. Siltstone seemed to do a lot of ridge running except for the gaps at Bearcamp and Scotts Gap and that maze of hollows and ridges around Tom Wallace & Jefferson Hill. I'm trying to remember how that trail crossed Jefferson Hill Road. I do remember the Siltstone wasn't a loop so after you hiked it one way, you had to hike it again all the way back.
The place I'd like to explore again is Horine. I was there back in the 1970s when it was a scout campground, but now that its open to the public as part of the Memorial Forest I'd like to see what trails they have opened. Leaving the ridgetops the place turned pretty quick into rugged backcountry, from what I recall.
Louisville is a real hikers paradise since there are some great backcountry trails here, including that long distance Knobstone Trail in the Clark State Forest in Indiana; trailhead is at Deam Lake, I think, and it heads north up to the Salem/Scottsburg vicinity. I know there is that Louisville Hiking Club (who have their own bus), but not sure if they do a lot of local hikes.
Jeff, I think you would enjoy Monkey Wrench. And I am sure you know about places like Hideaway Saloon in the Highlands? There was a great LGBT bar in the Highlands called Pink Door but they might be closed? Next time in germantown, you will have to try Zanzabar. That I think it is up your alley. there are certain shows at Uncle Pleasant's that you would likely enjoy, and of course you know about the great coffee at Sunergo's. As an urban neighborhood, although germantown is a quartenary type urban neighborhood as far as density and activity after Highlands, Crescent Hill, and Clifton, I still think the area more urban and aesthetitically pleasing, and more hip than what I deem as the primary urban hipster mix match district in Dayton, the Oregon. One thing about the Oregon is that it has a better music scene than can be found in Germantown, but IMO, it is more hip than Oregon. Let's not even mention Highlands, Crescent Hill, Clifton, Old Louisville, etc.
Thanks for the info & tips. I don’t know much about modern Louisville so this is appreciated. I actually did stop at Zanzabar over the Thanksgiving weekend but need to go back to give a fair opinion of the place. The others sound interesting, but as I said I’m not really into “bar” bars (at least straight bars), but more places with music, which could include coffeeshops. I’ve noticed Louisville still has a number of independent coffeehouses and roasters. Good sign.
From what I can tell things are spread out in Louisville, due to multiple hot-spots in the city, compared to Dayton, which has the things worth listening to concentrated in the Oregon and next-door downtown.
Quote:
With regards to downtown, I am kind of surprised you did not know about the development in the old KY theatre.
I think I read about it or glanced at an ad or story about, but it didn’t really register what they were doing. I thought it was just a small grocery or something.
@@@@
I’ll be back in town again this weekend for the Dave Rawlings show at Headliners, combined with some more walks and visits. See y’all next week with another trip report.
Permits are easy to get (takes 5 minutes) and they are free. They lock the gates after the park is closed and want to know how many are still inside the park. Here is where the permits are issued: Welcome Center - Jefferson Memorial Forest - LouisvilleKy.gov
..and this weekend at Tom Wallace, there is an orienteering meet that will travel along portions of the Siltstone trail and inside the Tom Wallace portion of the park. Billy Goat Orienteering Meet, 2009
^
Thanx for the intel on the permits. Deffo on that return to Horine during a future visit.
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