Interviewing Madison (Howard, Monona, Lake Wisconsin: fit in, for sale, rental)

[WisconsinWannabe]

My husband and I are planning a trip next month to "interview" Madison, as my husband would say. We currently live in Austin, TX and it's just getting too big down here, too hot in the summer, and too expensive to live in the part of town close to the bike path, bus routes, Farmers Market, etc. We've researched several cities and think that Madison just might be the place we would fit in and enjoy living, especially the near east side of town. We're empty nesters (barely), organic gardeners, bike riding, green living, hippie-ish folks (although we're both professionals) who've lived in Texas for 13+ years and would like to get back to four-season living.

Many of my questions have been answered just by reviewing previous posts but I have a couple I haven't seen addressed. First, can anyone recommend a hotel/motel in the near east side that would be close to the bike path and bus routes? We would prefer a locally owned one instead of a chain hotel, if possible.

Second, the lakes look beautiful and I see lots of pictures with folks in canoes, but does anyone swim in the lakes? I think I read a post where someone said the lakes are stinky in the summer. Is that true? If so, why? I'm originally from Idaho and miss those beautiful clear (but cold!) lakes.

Thanks for any info you can share with us. We're really looking forward to our trip and any suggestions on things we can do to see the "real" Madison while visiting would be greatly appreciated.

[MidwesternBookWorm]

Sounds to me like you're ready-made Madisonians, Wannabe! I know a lot of people who say that Madison reminds them of Austin before it outgrew itself a couple of decades ago, and if you like Austin now, you'll love Madison.

I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. There's a paucity of hotels on the near-east side, unfortunately, and I don't know that you'll find exactly what you're looking for. The Concourse Hotel downtown is locally owned and is a very nice place to stay (I co-chaired a 1,000 member convention that was held there a couple of months ago, and can attest to the fact that the facility is an excellent one and the staff extremely professional and courteous). It's not near-east side, but because it's downtown, you'd be at least close to bike routes that go through the center of town. It's not a budget place by any means, but the fact that it's locally owned means that the reservations staff have a little leeway about rates, if you ask and are politely persistent. You'd also be just a stone's throw from State Street, Overture Center, the Capitol and the Farmers' Market, and well situated to go to interviews on either side of town.

I'm not as well versed about your second question, not being a swimmer, but I know there are public beaches on Madison's lakes, and I know that people do swim in them. They're not the cold, sweet Idaho lakes you remember by any means; they've been in the middle of a burgeoning community for a century and a half, and while the city is pretty rigorous now about what goes into the lakes, that wasn't true for much of Madison's history.

In any case, best of luck to you and your spouse on your interview trip! I hope you find the fit you seek; it's a great feeling to live in a city you truly love. We'll look for you at the Farmers' Market!

[tchemgrrl]

I can't think of anything except the Mansion Hill Inn, which isn't that far east and is fan-ceeee, and a Howard Johnson a ways down E. Washington, which is about as chain-like as possible (clean, though; my in-laws have stayed there, and reasonably bike/bus accessible).

As Bookworm said, there are a few swimming beaches at the parks in town, and people doing the Ironman swim through the lake, so it's safe. My husband goes swimming to cool off fairly often. But swimming isn't as popular as you'd think being surrounded by lakes. A lot of this has to do with algae blooms which come up every year or other year, which is caused by fertilizer/phosphate runoff. The algae bloom itself smells terrible, and it chokes out the fish, which causes a, er, secondary bad odor. It doesn't happen constantly--the lake has smelled fine to me this year--but it's unpredictable in location and timing, and I think that puts a lot of people off.

[smartypants431]

I am a student at the UW, and I live on campus so I can't give you much info. on neighborhoods or hotels, but I can tell you that I have really gotten attached to Madison this past year, and I can think of a million things you can do. Madison is such a cool city. When you visit, you must check out State St. You can never be bored there. Also, if you're here on a Sat. go to the Farmer's Market at the capital (a sidenote-hunt down the jalapeno cheese bread tent, it's delicious). The Terrace at the UW memorial union is also a fun place, especially at night. I have seen people swimming in Lake Mendota- near the terrace there is a big pier where there are always sunbathers and swimmers in the summer months. The lake can get smelly, but it IS a lake. Take a walk on the path around the campus lakeshore path out to Picnic Point. You could also go to the Henry Vilas zoo, I haven't been yet, but I hear it is fun, and it's free. Monona Terrace is also pretty cool, it was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. If you have a car, you can go out the beltline and find all of the normal stores and malls, etc. Good luck and have a good time.

[Millipooh]

you can try momandpopmotels.com

[WisconsinWannabe]

Thank you all for responding to my post! We've decided to stay at a B&B for our adventure in Madison. The Hotel Ruby Marie. The lady who took our reservation assured me we would be close to the Farmer's Market, bus routes and bike paths, and that there was a bike rental place just across the street. And there are so many things we want to do there. You will definitely see is at the Farmer's Market. And we might try yoga at Olbrich Park, if the weather is nice, that is. And we wouldn't miss the Monona Terrace. My husband is a big fan of Frank Lloyd Wright.

I have another question about living in Madison - about back yards. We have two dogs and it seems many of the houses I see for sale on realtor.com don't have fenced back yards. I've mostly been looking in the 53714 area. Is it uncommon to have a fenced back yard there in Madison?

[MidwesternBookWorm]

Fenced yards are not uncommon, but they're not ubiquitous, either. Yards generally wind up getting fenced when a dog-owner moves in; that was the reason we fenced our yard, and the reason that our next-door neighbor fenced hers. Plan to spend $1,500 or so on chain-link, unless you need or want the super-tall variety, and just budget it into your total home costs. Check the local neighborhood associations for suggestions (there's a link on tchemgrrl's thread about helpful Madison links).

53714 zip code is a *good* region to live in, though I'm hardly objective (that's my zip code!). You'll find plenty to look at in a wide variety of prices, ages and amenities.

Hotel Ruby Marie is indeed in an excellent location, though I didn't realize it was considered a B&B. You'll have a primo view of Lake Monona and will be a short and easy walk to Monona Terrace. If you like excellent microbrews, be sure to go by the Great Dane Brewpub, just up the street from where you'll be. If you prefer organic local food, check out the Willy Street Coop on Williamson Street, just a mile or so from the Ruby Marie.

Safe travels, and we'll see you soon!

[WisconsinWannabe]

Well, the time has come for our visit to Madison. We're leaving Austin this Wednesday morning and expect to arrive in Madison Thursday evening. It's still in the low 90s here during the day and I'm soooo looking forward to cooler weather!

A few last minute questions -

Is there a "once-around-the-town" bus route, so we can get a feel for the city?

I mentioned in my first posting that we're organic gardeners - can anyone recommend a garden center that would support that?

We're thinking of driving up to the Wollersheim Winery and taking the tour, then going to the Treinen Farm Corn Maze, near Lake Wisconsin. Has anyone ever been to either of these? Are they worth the drive? Oh, and are the leaves starting to turn yet? We don't really get Fall color down here so I hope I see at least a few yellow or red leaves.

We would love to find a good restaurant that serves locally grown food - any suggestons? We're staying in the downtown area, but we don't mind driving for a good meal. Also, since Madison is a college town, I'm assuming jeans are okay for dinner attire, correct?

We're very much looking forward to this trip and seeing if we would like to relocate to Madison. So be on the lookout next Saturday at the Farmer's Market for tourists from Texas. We'll be the ones looking for that Jalapeno cheese bread tent!

[MidwesternBookWorm]

That's wonderful news! We will definitely keep an eye out for you at the Farmers' Market next weekend; the hot-n-spicy cheese bread will be at a stall close to where State Street begins, and you'll identify it by the hucksters hollering "get your hot-n-spicy cheese bread" as you go past.

Temps this past week were Indian-summerish, up in the 80's on several days, but this coming week is supposed to be cooler, from what I've heard. Expect days in the 60's and 70's, evenings possibly down to the 40's. I remember what it's like to move from Texas, so bring jackets or sweaters; it'll feel like winter to y'all.

I don't think that Madison Metro has an "around-the-town" type bus route, but they do post their routes on the city's website. If you haven't checked out the links on tchemgrrl's thread http://www.city-data.com/forum/wisco...adison-wi.html, try to browse there a bit before you head up here. I know she included several links to the city's site, including the bus system, as I recall.

The trees haven't really started turning color too much here in the southern part of the state, although you'll spot some flame-colored sugar maples here and there. The best time for gorgeous colors in this latitude is early-mid October, depending on when we get the first real freeze.

Most garden centers are very accustomed to organic gardeners, as many here in Madison prefer to avoid the use of pesticides. They still sell the chemicals to those who want them, but urge customers to utilize non-chemical methods of pest control, etc. I've had good luck with Jung's on the north side, and have also looked at Johansen's on the Beltline by Todd Drive, though not as often.

We haven't been to Wollersheim yet, and are thinking of doing the tour there sometime this fall ourselves. If you go, post a comment about how you liked it!

There are lots and lots and lots of great suggestions for good local restaurants; Madison has a plenitude of wonderful places! Let's see, L'Etoile always shops the Farmers' Market (you'll see the owner going around the Square with a wagon buying from the farmers) and is right downtown. That's pretty highbrow, though, and you wouldn't want to wear jeans there, I'm thinking. Bunky's Cafe on Atwood on the east side is wonderful: Italian and Moroccan food, heavenly good. LuLu's on Old University on the west side has fabulous Middle-Eastern food. Himal Chuli and Chautara on State Street have really wonderful Nepali food. If you want really great steaks in a real 1950's-style Wisconsin supper club atmosphere, try Smoky's on University Avenue. For a more high-brow steak place, check out Johnny Delmonico's downtown. Restaurant Magnus downtown is also very good, with Argentinian food and a menu that changes every three months with the seasons. If you've got kids between the ages of 3 and 12, by all means, go by Ella's Deli on East Washington (which is all torn up for reconstruction, but Ella's is worth the hassle). They have real kosher deli food, WONDERFUL ice cream creations, and a working antique carousel. And the inside of the place defies description; you have to see it to believe it.

I hope that wasn't too much like advertising for the thread administrators; if this post gets edited, send me a personal message and I'll send you a list of restaurants to consider.

Safe travels, drive friendly, and we'll look for y'all at the Farmers' Market next weekend!

[Drover]

I've been to Wollersheim. It's definitely worth the drive. (It's not that far of a drive from Madison anyway). For one, even though it's not far from Madison, it will give you a glimpse of a different part of Wisconsin; namely, the unglaciated part. Madison is in the glaciated part of the state so it's pretty flat; but just northwest of the city you run into the driftless zone and it starts getting rather hilly and more scenic. It's worth it for the drive alone.

Second, Wollersheim is a very charming place. You might as well be at a small family winery in Napa. Their gift shop has lots of deli-type items, many locally produced, especially mustards and cranberry items (northern and western Wisconsin are cranberry-producing regions). Get your hands on some Slack's Bogberry salsa if they have some! Cranberry salsa is a delicious thing, and I'd be interested to get a Texan's take on it. And of course, the wine is very good. I'm particularly fond of their dessert wines.