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Old 02-18-2009, 09:17 PM
 
2 posts, read 3,880 times
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There are a lot of threads discussing where to/where not to live in the Memphis area - I don't want to start a new one so I'm using this one, since (in my opinion) this is basically the same subject. I've read many of threads (yes to Collierville, G'town, Bartlett, Olive Branch, Arlington, Lakeland). But here's my story. I moved from out of state, and have rented in Germantown for about a year. I'm looking to buy a house/condo in the Memphis area. I'd like to keep it close to the 38120 ZIP code (which rules out most of the aforementioned areas). I'm a single 30-something female - safety is paramount to me (Memphis nay-sayers, I don't want to hear from you - I just want to know the best available in a relatively small area of town, I "get" that it's not the safest city on the planet).

I've been wondering whether Germantown will stay 'nice' for more than a few years (bordering Hickory Hill and Cordova, which most folks here seem to think is going downhill). I know Germantown is a separate community, but I can't imagine there won't be crime splash-over. Any thoughts?

How about the area of East Memphis, off Yates, North of Walnut Grove/South of Summer? There are a lot of affordable homes available there, but I'm not sure why that is? Is this considered part of (or too near to) North Memphis? For those that have lived here awhile, do you think that neighborhood will get worse (I know, you'll be guessing, I'm just interested in what your opinions are). How about South Yates, near Poplar?

Thanks to all that help!

To the OP - I can't comment on a lot of what you ask, I haven't been here long enough - but I grew up in Cleveland, which I think is very similar to Pittsburgh. You'll love the weather, what is called "traffic" here is nothing (unless there is a threat of snow). If you like to go out and socialize, the 'burbs probably aren't for you - the city of Memphis sprawls quite a bit so the nearest liveable suburb is actually well outside of the action. From what little I've seen, there is public transportation, but don't count on it to get you from just anywhere to just anywhere else - the bus lines are limited. There are enough people that have relocated to here that I occassionally hear an accent and think "wow, that's a cool accent, I wonder where they are from..." only then to realize they grew up here. And, as strumpeace said, you should easily be able to find rent in that range in any neighborhood - for a two bedroom, you'll get close just about everywhere other than maybe Germantown. If I were your age, mobile, energetic, and with your useful degree, I would seriously consider moving here - it may be into a "questionable" neighborhood, but find a way to make a living and just enjoy what Memphis does have to offer!
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:42 PM
 
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Default opinion

To the OP:

At 23 years of age and you want to waste your time in a city which is dwarfed by other dynamic locations throughout the US ??

I would tell my son or daughter not to consider it given the absolute plethora of enormous growth opportunites elsewhere throughout the nation, and particularly even the 5 Southeastern states- but you have to go where a true opportunity presents itself- everybody understands that !

but it's like this---if you had a scholarship to Harvard, Yale, Brandeis or Wharton, and a scholarship to the University of Mississippi, or Auburn, why on earth would you not at least try the all around better school most things considered ??

I would not do it, unless of course I was already living in a hellhole perhaps like coming from Newark or Cleveland.
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:47 PM
 
Location: A Yankee in northeast TN
16,072 posts, read 21,148,356 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeye42 View Post

How about the area of East Memphis, off Yates, North of Walnut Grove/South of Summer? There are a lot of affordable homes available there, but I'm not sure why that is? Is this considered part of (or too near to) North Memphis? For those that have lived here awhile, do you think that neighborhood will get worse (I know, you'll be guessing, I'm just interested in what your opinions are). How about South Yates, near Poplar?
That is considered a part of east Memphis.
Where Yates dead ends into Mason is an infill area, new housing, supposed to be nice. May have been hard hit by the foreclosure crisis, since a friend of a friend picked up a house there for a really good price recently.
From Mason up to Walnut Grove are decent older homes, maybe a few rentals in the area. White Station Middle School ad Richland Elementary are just around the corner, one on Rich Road and one on Mason, (google mapped, the schools flank Brennan Park) so you might see a bit of traffic in the mornings. This is mostly a working class area, lots of kids because of the two schools. I'm not aware of any real problems with crime in the area, maybe some petty stuff around the middle school from time to time.
As you get closer to Poplar the houses start getting bigger, and nicer. Big church and a synagogue near Shady Grove. Around Ashley Square are some very nice homes, some with interesting architecture! 'Contemporary' houses I think?
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:51 PM
 
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DubbleT - thank you for the information, that does help a lot. The "lots of kids" could be a deal breaker for me in the northern-Yates area (I'd have to hang out there a bit and see how chaotic it is). I hadn't heard of Ashley Square - a quick search tells me everything is probably out of my price range, but it helps form a picture of the area.

DebFlack - I know you are teasing - trust me, Clevelanders are used to it, we have tough skin - we have no choice. :-) Notice, I didn't - and am not about to - recommend the place (it really isn't that bad - the worst part is terrible weather and the fact that the sun itself doesn't seem to care much for the place).

To the OP (mainly since you seem really able to relocate now) - DebFlack has a point, but some does depend on the weather you like and how much money you have - and what you really want right now. Sure, being 23 and living in Huntington Beach, CA would be awesome, but it's expensive. I hear really good things about the Austin, TX area if you are looking for some nicer weather and still a "hip" town. And someone help me out here...outside of Washington, DC is a college town that is really nice - maybe around Georgetown?? You'd be close to the city, and the ocean, and lots of "stuff" going on. I can't comment on affordability or job opportunities.

If your main goal is a "nice" place - with your experience, and especially if you have any technology background, consider the Triangle area of NC (Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill) - it can be pricey compared to what you are used to, but you should be able to find something, especially close to the campus (and that's where the "fun" stuff would be, too). You can weekend at the ocean or in the mountains with no trouble.

I've heard wonderful things about Charleston, SC and Colorado Springs, CO (but the latter only if you are REALLY into outdoorsy-fitness stuff) as well.

Or, there is always Memphis. :-)
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Old 02-21-2009, 12:06 PM
 
62 posts, read 287,587 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skeye42 View Post
To the OP (mainly since you seem really able to relocate now) - DebFlack has a point, but some does depend on the weather you like and how much money you have - and what you really want right now. Sure, being 23 and living in Huntington Beach, CA would be awesome, but it's expensive. I hear really good things about the Austin, TX area if you are looking for some nicer weather and still a "hip" town. And someone help me out here...outside of Washington, DC is a college town that is really nice - maybe around Georgetown?? You'd be close to the city, and the ocean, and lots of "stuff" going on. I can't comment on affordability or job opportunities.

If your main goal is a "nice" place - with your experience, and especially if you have any technology background, consider the Triangle area of NC (Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill) - it can be pricey compared to what you are used to, but you should be able to find something, especially close to the campus (and that's where the "fun" stuff would be, too). You can weekend at the ocean or in the mountains with no trouble.

I've heard wonderful things about Charleston, SC and Colorado Springs, CO (but the latter only if you are REALLY into outdoorsy-fitness stuff) as well.

Or, there is always Memphis. :-)



You bet !, if I were around 23, the Research Triangle area would probably be NUMBER ONE on my list

Charleston is superl lots of great southern true culture, but it tends to be highly clique-ish

Speaking of very very high tech, my other vote goes to Huntsville, AL and the surrounding area- and the people are truly from all over the US and the world, and tend to be very well educated, and well-traveled, but it's not a party town, but the cultural milieu and things to do are growing each year
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:16 PM
 
Location: Bartlett
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I am what you would consider a "transplant" myself. Having lived in 6 states before moving here 5 years ago, I have a different perspective. In my opinion, Memphis is what you make of it. If you live in any metropolitan city, you will encounter crime. Media is a bit over-exaggerated-- my case in point-- Memphis is the 2nd Most Miserable City per Forbes, while Bartlett is one of the top 100 cities to live in---in the country!! Bartlett is 15-20 min drive from downtown.

I agree with the post above about the city mayor and city government, but the county has a separate government, seperate school system etc... Some of the suburbs are cities and have our own mayor and government.

Take a look on Facebook-- there are several groups that will give you a taste of Memphis.

Do remember--- we are in the south-- if you have lived "up north" your entire life, there will be an adjustment... Best of luck to you!

The only "real traffic" we see is when there is an accident or construction.
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Old 03-17-2009, 01:15 PM
 
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Angry Another angle on Memphis

As a northerner, you may wish to note that Memphis is a “Southern City.” The folks are very hospitable, but if you are not from the South, it is very, very hard to be fully accepted here. Unless you belong to one of the major churches here (read SOUTHERN churches), expect some serious challenges being integrated socially.

There is no discernible outward hostility, but unless your family roots can be traced to the 19th Century, you are not truly a Southerner and therefore, NOT a Memphian.

Additionally, the area is a very RED state politically. Although Memphis itself votes Blue, once you cross the city border, or the river, it's Red as Red can be.

Again, this may not be a problem for you, but certainly something to consider.

As for the economic conditions, Memphis has never really had a "boom," so the downturn is less noticeable. For many years, it has been been an economically challenged city with a terribly corrupt government that keeps companies from moving here. The Mayor (of the city) plays the race card whenever possible - he and his cronies are constantly under indictment. The taxes are incredibly disproportionate to the services offered. The streets are dirty, crime is rampant and public schools are uninhabitable.

However, real estate is very, very cheap, the food is fantastic (and fattening) and the nightlife is very active. Finally, don’t get me started on the tornadoes or summer swelt!
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Old 03-24-2009, 09:18 AM
 
Location: Rossville, TN
10 posts, read 36,429 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bleweyed1 View Post
As a northerner, you may wish to note that Memphis is a “Southern City.” The folks are very hospitable, but if you are not from the South, it is very, very hard to be fully accepted here. Unless you belong to one of the major churches here (read SOUTHERN churches), expect some serious challenges being integrated socially.

There is no discernible outward hostility, but unless your family roots can be traced to the 19th Century, you are not truly a Southerner and therefore, NOT a Memphian.

Additionally, the area is a very RED state politically. Although Memphis itself votes Blue, once you cross the city border, or the river, it's Red as Red can be.

Again, this may not be a problem for you, but certainly something to consider.

As for the economic conditions, Memphis has never really had a "boom," so the downturn is less noticeable. For many years, it has been been an economically challenged city with a terribly corrupt government that keeps companies from moving here. The Mayor (of the city) plays the race card whenever possible - he and his cronies are constantly under indictment. The taxes are incredibly disproportionate to the services offered. The streets are dirty, crime is rampant and public schools are uninhabitable.

However, real estate is very, very cheap, the food is fantastic (and fattening) and the nightlife is very active. Finally, don’t get me started on the tornadoes or summer swelt!
I got a real kick out of this one. Mainly bacause I'm one of those "transplants" that came down here and never left, which rightfully qualifies me as a "damn Yankee". That being said, here goes:
I lived in at least 15 other places as a kid or young adult before coming to Memphis 26 years ago. Since then I've lived in the Hickory Hill area, Olive Branch, Germantown and most recently (not moving again), in Fayette County, specifically Rossville.

The social scene is absolutely correct, it can be difficult to break into, but once you're accepted (it usually only takes one person to "accept" you), I have more good friends here than anywhere I've ever been. Note I didn't say acquaintences.. friends.

I raised my sons in Germantown until my divorce six years ago. The youngest one is in NY with my ex. I "traded up" and remarried, this time to a native Memphian, and life has never been so good. My oldest, who traveled a lot growing up and has been all over the US and Europe, only lasted a year and a half up there before coming back down here to finish HS and still lives with us while attending the U of M. He loves this area and wants to stay here permanently. That ought to tell you something.

Rent is not an issue- I own a condo in East Memphis. It's currently renting for $700 a month- 2 BR 2 bath on ground floor and is for sale. You can get a good deal pretty much anywhere on apartments or condos. The housing market, like most places, is a buyer's dream now if you can qualify.

Bottom line, I wouldn't hesitate to settle, not necessarily in Memphis, because I'm not a "city person", but I'm confident to say you can find pretty much whatever you want in the greater Memphis area. Like anywhere you live, it's largely dependent on two factors:
a) You want to be there
b) You get out of the community what you put into it in effort to "belong" there. My ex-inlaws were "New Yorkers" and never wanted to fit in. The locals smelled it but the inlaws always said the people weren't friendly. Maybe because they seldom said hello before telling them what they wanted had something to do with it.....

I know this has a lot of personal opinion in it but hope it helps.
Good luck.
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:16 PM
 
541 posts, read 1,224,793 times
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Originally Posted by bleweyed1 View Post
As a northerner, you may wish to note that Memphis is a “Southern City.”
Memphis is a mid-south city. There are many varieties of southern. East and Middle Tennessee are entirely different animals, especially East Tennessee and Appalachian culture. Honestly, the rest of the state tends to view Memphis as a bit of an alien outpost camped on the far tip of the state. There's just not that much in common.

Quote:
Unless you belong to one of the major churches here (read SOUTHERN churches), expect some serious challenges being integrated socially.
I can't say how true that is. I never had a hard time meeting friends, and I attend a Presbyterian church. They're not exactly known for being a southern denomination... at least not to the degree some are.

Quote:
Additionally, the area is a very RED state politically. Although Memphis itself votes Blue, once you cross the city border, or the river, it's Red as Red can be.
One area where the rest of the state helps Memphis rise above itself and strive for something better, to be sure.

Quote:
As for the economic conditions, Memphis has never really had a "boom," so the downturn is less noticeable. For many years, it has been been an economically challenged city with a terribly corrupt government that keeps companies from moving here. The Mayor (of the city) plays the race card whenever possible - he and his cronies are constantly under indictment. The taxes are incredibly disproportionate to the services offered. The streets are dirty, crime is rampant and public schools are uninhabitable.
I won't disagree with this at all. If you're in the right neighborhood in Memphis, you're probably fine minus some property crime (which shouldn't be dismissed; nobody likes having the window of their car smashed to steal an ipod). The public schools are miserable. If you're in the suburbs, you're fine, though even the schools out in Germantown aren't that great compared to other Tennessee cities with some affluence. You can do okay in one or two schools in Memphis City, but there's much to be desired, even in some of the better schools.

Quote:
However, real estate is very, very cheap, the food is fantastic (and fattening) and the nightlife is very active. Finally, don’t get me started on the tornadoes or summer swelt!
Memphis is absolutely the only place where I've ever been locked out of my house because the wooden door swelled to the point that I couldn't get the thing to budge. Hot, humid southern nights are something else...
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Old 03-28-2009, 01:37 AM
 
16 posts, read 69,382 times
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I'd have to disagree with Kabluey's statement: "It is not a community where success comes easily."

I think this depends on your career, and if it is dependent on referrals or word-of-mouth. I moved my firm here from Nashville, and basically had to start over "from scratch" and build my business all over again. It was amazing how quickly I was able to reach and exceed my Nashville client list number!

For better or worse (in this case better), people here TALK. I can trace almost 20 clients back to one single person. That's some seriously inexpensive advertising- only in the south!

CMartel2- I had to laugh out loud about the humidity swelling your door and locking you out!! Last summer, humidity ruined a 300.00 camera of mine just because I walked onto the porch to take a sunset picture and the humidity fogged the lense within 3 seconds- which caused condensation behind the lense that traveled into the delicate little digital parts. Humidity is not your friend here!!

However, the beautiful autumn makes up for all of Memphis' summer sin to me... there's a lot to love here.
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