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Old 06-13-2012, 07:33 AM
 
Location: Petticoat Junction
930 posts, read 1,575,627 times
Reputation: 1487

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I would do a partial DITY if you are so inclined, or none. It's a serious PITA to do a full DITY, unless you dont have very much stuff. Use the partial to take items of particular sentimental value that cannot be replaced/repaired if damaged.

To me, PCSing is enough of a hassle anyway not to add to it with a DITY, but that's me.

I've had mover damage in the past, but the claims system has always worked well for me and I was fully reimbursed.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:17 AM
 
Location: Northern Virginia
499 posts, read 1,803,120 times
Reputation: 1010
A full PPM (formerly known as a DITY) is not as beneficial as you think. You aren't reimbursed for moving truck rentals, fees, gas, etc. You are reimbursed for the weight and distance. Additionally, you have more protection if a carrier moves you. If you want the best of both worlds, do a partial PPM. I always do that. I don't meet my authorized weight allowance to begin with and we are always loading up the vehicles with things I won't let the movers touch (firearms, documents, etc).

I'm getting ready to PCS in a few weeks. For my partial PPM, I estimated 500lbs for a 450mi move and that equates to a $367 reimbursement.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:57 AM
 
Location: San Antonio
1,289 posts, read 3,258,360 times
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Whichever route you go I would have the antiques formally valued. There are also specific regulations regarding the moving of antiques, I would would make sure you guys are up to speed on those as well. You might have to go as far as taking out some extra insurance yourself to ensure you're covered.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:26 PM
 
Location: St. Louis, MO
4,009 posts, read 5,170,189 times
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Thanks for the advice everyone I agree, I need my furniture professionally valued (I know what it's worth because I know what identical pieces sell for, but I know that's not quite good enough!).

I was just wondering too, my husband has a classic car (it's a 'project' and although it drives, it definitely can't drive 1000 miles without a lot of nail biting!). I realize that the military will take up to 8000 lbs for my husband and I (he's an E4)- the car weighs about 3000 lbs, could the vehicle transport be included in the moving cost also?

Thanks again!
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:52 PM
 
Location: San Antonio
1,289 posts, read 3,258,360 times
Reputation: 917
If memory serves you aren't allowed to ship a car. I had mine shipped at my own expense from VA to TX, cost around $500.
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:39 PM
 
5,106 posts, read 6,060,240 times
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whichever you do, please have additional insurance for the move based upon current appraised value.

We moved our household goods for 30 years, with little problem. My last move, the moving van must of slammed into something, so much of my beautiful furniture was crushed.

The JTR is not your friend in this situation. I had so much trouble getting my claim through, for example the JTR only considers an amortization of the furniture as 5 years old and would only pay the allowed % on a basis of that amortization. (an example) My homeowners didn't cover the shortfall because I was between households and therefore homeowners didn't cover it. So I ended up having to go to JAG and Chief Transportation Officer to get an increased reimbursement.

But best to you in the next phase of your life.
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Old 06-15-2012, 03:02 AM
 
Location: :~)
1,483 posts, read 2,823,020 times
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DITY move. No kids?

My wife and I moved ourselves 3x during my career...yes, no help (4 bedroom house). We made very good money each time. One move was from the deep south to Montana, very good money. The last 2 moves, our children helped. Go for it! Not if you have infants.

Word advice for your husband. Make sure that he does not workout the day of and the day before. This was, by far, the toughest workout for me.
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:42 AM
 
20 posts, read 34,202 times
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While they may be so called professionals, the government will pay the lowest bidder to move your stuff. I'd highly recommend a partial DITY and as mentioned extra insurance. The only person who truly has the best intentions for your antiques would be you.

We've had some great guys that went above and beyond to make a special crate for a painting I own that I spent a little money on. The next set of guys weren't as concerned sadly so now we make sure to take care of everything personal ourselves.

Best of luck with the move!
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Old 06-15-2012, 12:17 PM
 
4,919 posts, read 19,120,969 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snarkybutt View Post
While they may be so called professionals, the government will pay the lowest bidder to move your stuff.
The DOD pays much more for a military member's household move than what a comparable civilian move would cost. They do require all bidders to be in the low range of all bids but you have to remember that the scope of service means that the bid is going to be much higher than a civilian move. I would say that its in everyones best interest to fully understand the scope of service on these moves and know exactly what you are entitled too. It was mentione dthey move your garabage, well yeah, they are required to move everything listed. A dirty sock on the floor MUST BE packed and shipped unlesss you tell them not to pack and ship that sock. A half full baby bottle of milk can not be left behind and must also be packaed and shipped. If its in the premise and you have not identified it as not to be packed or shipped (and its on the list of items covered by the move) its being packed and moved to your new location. This is to ensure that you as the militray memeber/dependent, has basically a no-worry move unlike wthe stories you hear about on civilian moves.

Now, I will be honest and admit that simply because its a defense associated contract, the cost have been so flagrently inflated to the point of obscene. What would cost a civilian $10,000 after all the funny businesses added cost are included, will cost the military $18,000 just because they can (and that was the low bidder). Golden rule is since its taxpayers money and nobody every questions militray spending, always start the bidding at twice the civilian cost. The secret to bidding on these moves is to figure out what you think the others will bid to make the most money they can but be $1 below that person. If I know that a certain move is specialized to the point only certain companies will bid, butt hey always bid 200% above normal bids, we'll bid 195% above.
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:06 PM
 
367 posts, read 1,295,455 times
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My husband spent a few years in the military working closely with procurement and I can tell you (1) government contracts are very lucrative and it's expected that the possibility of having a large contract for two or three years can, and often does, generate low bids; (2) even low bids have to be RESPONSIBLE, if I know you can't buy a $5 bill for $4.50 you aren't getting the bid; (3) yes, Virginia there are $600 toilet seats - that problem is often caused by people writing specifications - a toilet seat from Home Depot might be $25 but if you're sitting on it when the temperature in the cargo bay goes below freezing parts of your butt are going to left behind or, if the plastic shatters it's going to be hard to get them splinters out at 25,000 feet! Nonetheless, the government has MANY restrictions, requirements and reports that add to the cost of any product but my experience is that the military does exercise reasonable quality control and the service members have an input into that process. When you're reading reviews of a hotel (for example) ever notice how some are so positive and others are so negative so you wonder, did they even stay at the same hotel? Consistent (justified) bad reviews (contract discrepancies) can cost the contractor the job!
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