Moving to St. Paul need advice (Eagan, Apple Valley: rent, houses, neighborhood)

[nalts]

One area that I'm surprised no one has mentioned in Como Park. You'll find mostly homes from the 1930's to 1970's. Most areas are quiet and with the zoo, golf course, lake, and park all within walking distance it's a top choice for many people.

My wife and I lived across from Lake Como and she worked at United Hospital at the time. She had a 10-15 minute commute, tops, and that's only if she hit a stop light.

Not sure about the schools, but as you stated your kids are younger so it isn't a huge issue.

I actually like Como better than Mac-Groveland because it isn't quite as uppity, IMHO.

[Slig]

My brother lived about a block off of Grand Ave for a few years and he loved it there. It's a nice area and there's alot to do around there.

[JB77]

Originally Posted by pumkin

Thanks for your input. We're looking for a short commute. My husband is working at United Hospital. We'd like a 15-20 minute commute.

I'm a mom of a toddler and an infant, so at this point, we're looking to rent for a year. Not that interested in schools. Our interest is more in nice parks to take the kids to and areas to take a walk.

Any reccomendations for neighborhoods in St. Paul that are family friendly, for young families, looking to rent a home/townhome for a year would be most helpful. Thanks again for your feedback.

Hi Pumkin, I live on the west SIDE of St Paul (not West St Paul) and I love it here. I live in the Mac-Groveland area, which is just north of Highland Park (right around Summit Ave and Grand Ave). There are plenty of families and the neighborhoods are kid friendly. There are a few smaller parks to take the kids, throw a frisbee, etc.
The prices for homes are higher here in terms of buying, but you may find something in your range as far as renting the 1st year.
In addition, you'll be centrally located to the entire metro, and you can cruise all over St Paul with ease.

If I could afford it, I'd buy a house in a minute!

[golfgal]

Originally Posted by JB77

Hi Pumkin, I live on the west SIDE of St Paul (not West St Paul) and I love it here. I live in the Mac-Groveland area, which is just north of Highland Park (right around Summit Ave and Grand Ave). There are plenty of families and the neighborhoods are kid friendly. There are a few smaller parks to take the kids, throw a frisbee, etc.
The prices for homes are higher here in terms of buying, but you may find something in your range as far as renting the 1st year.
In addition, you'll be centrally located to the entire metro, and you can cruise all over St Paul with ease.

If I could afford it, I'd buy a house in a minute!

But don't confuse her west side with the "real" west side of St. Paul, across the river, over the high bridge--you DON'T want to live there, but West St. Paul, the city itself is fine. It is really confusing because what is referred to as the west side is really south of the city where as the Highland/Mac-Groveland is really west of downtown.

[nick is rulz]

Originally Posted by punkerdunker

I've noticed that anytime someone posts about considering living in St. Paul Golfgal tries to steer them into the suburbs.

nah thats any time anyone mentions the metro area...and not suburbs in general, just Rosemount.

[golfgal]

Originally Posted by nick is rulz

nah thats any time anyone mentions the metro area...and not suburbs in general, just Rosemount.

And your problem is--she asked for family friendly neighborhoods close to St. Paul what is wrong with mentioning suburbs? I personally love Rosemount and it has a lot to offer. It is no different then Minnehahapolitan endorsing Minneapolis, or other posters that are biased toward St. Louis Park or any other town where people live. The whole idea of these boards is to get ideas and opinions of areas to move into.

[mudmuffin]

golfgal, There is nothing wrong with Rosemount. It's fine if you enjoy living there but there are lots of places in the city of St. Paul that are nice too. Also, there is nothing wrong with the West Side. It and West St. Paul are basically working class neighborhoods, homes are more reasonably priced and there is a large hispanic population.

BTW, the area west of downtown is considered the West End. While the Highland and MacGroveland areas are northwest of downtown (by river perspective because the streets in the city are laid out to follow the river) they are not technically considered the West End

nalts, Como is a very nice area, lots of nice homes and close to the park and lake. Not everyone in the MacGroveland area is uppity, we just know we're better. hehehe

Seriously, I like the Como area, some of the homes on Midway Parkway and around the lake are beautiful. The nice thing about both areas is that the majority of the homes were built in 1920 or later and they all have character. Not like living in a suburb that was until a few years ago was mostly farm land.

Someone else mentioned the Crocus Hill area which is also a very nice area.

If you're looking for a more affordable home to buy, you might want to try the Como area. Homes in the Crocus Hill and MacGroveland areas generally start over 350k and can easily top one million.

[golfgal]

Originally Posted by mudmuffin

golfgal, There is nothing wrong with Rosemount. It's fine if you enjoy living there but there are lots of places in the city of St. Paul that are nice too. Also, there is nothing wrong with the West Side. It and West St. Paul are basically working class neighborhoods, homes are more reasonably priced and there is a large hispanic population.

BTW, the area west of downtown is considered the West End. While the Highland and MacGroveland areas are northwest of downtown (by river perspective because the streets in the city are laid out to follow the river) they are not technically considered the West End

nalts, Como is a very nice area, lots of nice homes and close to the park and lake. Not everyone in the MacGroveland area is uppity, we just know we're better. hehehe

Seriously, I like the Como area, some of the homes on Midway Parkway and around the lake are beautiful. The nice thing about both areas is that the majority of the homes were built in 1920 or later and they all have character. Not like living in a suburb that was until a few years ago was mostly farm land.

Someone else mentioned the Crocus Hill area which is also a very nice area.

If you're looking for a more affordable home to buy, you might want to try the Como area. Homes in the Crocus Hill and MacGroveland areas generally start over 350k and can easily top one million.

The area from Annapolis Street to the river is considered the West Side of St. Paul, it is NOT a nice area. The area at the north end of the High Bridge is the west end. West St. Paul from Annapolis south to Butler Ave is the "working class" are of West. St. Paul, the areas south of that to Highway 110 where Mendota Heights starts is all upper middle to upper class--$500K+ homes.

[clawhammerist]

Having grown up in Saint Paul and spending many years living in comfortable Mac-Groveland as well as edgy (at the time) Midway, AND getting very well-acquainted with all of the inner-city neighborhoods, I must say that the West Side is getting a bad rap. As with many older, affordable, close-in neighborhoods, this area has pockets of "good" and other pockets of "not-so-good," but the latter is not so widespread as to render the entire neighborhood "NOT a nice area."

In my opinion, the West Side is one of the very last affordable neighborhoods in the city limits (both for owning and for renting) that can, in places, be considered quite safe, quiet, and family-friendly. The particularly fine sections, such as the blocks, say, south of the river buffs and north of Congress/Cherokee between Smith and Hall, have some lavish, historic homes that are not cheap (although cheaper than in the cushier neighborhoods with similar homes and sections, but more of them). The views of downtown from the bluffside homes are unparalleled in Saint Paul. More affordable are the streets west of Smith, close to Cherokee Park; this area too is lovely, with mostly bungalows or mid-sized homes and, of course, the beautiful park. This park is easily reached from much of the neighborhood, as is the still larger Harriet Island park alongside the river. I would not hesitate to call either of these areas within the West Side safe, family-friendly, and affordable. I would happily live in these areas, even having been accustomed to Mac-Groveland. At this time, with Twin Cities home prices being where they are, I think that one would get quite a bit more house for one's dollar in these nicer sections of the West Side than in Mac-Groveland or Highland. Parts of the Como area might be comparable in price and the other values I have mentioned...but that neighborhood is farther from downtown.

All of this said, the portion of the West Side east of about Humboldt and particularly east of Robert is not the same. This area is cheaper still, but the homes are generally not as large and/or as well maintained, the green space isn't as accessible, there are more busy streets to contend with, and "family-friendly" is not a term that comes immediately to mind.

The West Side is an easy commute from downtown Saint Paul; just a quick drive across the High Bridge or the Wabasha bridge. Commuting by bus is something that a number of my West Side friends have done, as downtown is just a few stops away. While United Hospital might be a bit far for this, I know a couple of people who live close to the bluffs who WALK to work in downtown! Shopping is close at hand as well, although less walkable than in some other neighborhoods; while I can't bring to mind a grocery store right in the neighborhood, West Saint Paul would have plenty of those along with big box-type stores and just about anything else, just a five-minute drive away. Grand Avenue shopping is a similar distance away across the High Bridge.

If the OP or anyone else on the thread has specific questions about the West Side, please feel free to post or PM. While I don't live in Saint Paul these days, I keep abreast of local developments, return as often as I can, and have lots of family and friends still in the area.

[Ben Around]

Originally Posted by clawhammerist

Having grown up in Saint Paul and spending many years living in comfortable Mac-Groveland as well as edgy (at the time) Midway, AND getting very well-acquainted with all of the inner-city neighborhoods, I must say that the West Side is getting a bad rap. As with many older, affordable, close-in neighborhoods, this area has pockets of "good" and other pockets of "not-so-good," but the latter is not so widespread as to render the entire neighborhood "NOT a nice area."

In my opinion, the West Side is one of the very last affordable neighborhoods in the city limits (both for owning and for renting) that can, in places, be considered quite safe, quiet, and family-friendly. The particularly fine sections, such as the blocks, say, south of the river buffs and north of Congress/Cherokee between Smith and Hall, have some lavish, historic homes that are not cheap (although cheaper than in the cushier neighborhoods with similar homes and sections, but more of them). The views of downtown from the bluffside homes are unparalleled in Saint Paul. More affordable are the streets west of Smith, close to Cherokee Park; this area too is lovely, with mostly bungalows or mid-sized homes and, of course, the beautiful park. This park is easily reached from much of the neighborhood, as is the still larger Harriet Island park alongside the river. I would not hesitate to call either of these areas within the West Side safe, family-friendly, and affordable. I would happily live in these areas, even having been accustomed to Mac-Groveland. At this time, with Twin Cities home prices being where they are, I think that one would get quite a bit more house for one's dollar in these nicer sections of the West Side than in Mac-Groveland or Highland. Parts of the Como area might be comparable in price and the other values I have mentioned...but that neighborhood is farther from downtown.

All of this said, the portion of the West Side east of about Humboldt and particularly east of Robert is not the same. This area is cheaper still, but the homes are generally not as large and/or as well maintained, the green space isn't as accessible, there are more busy streets to contend with, and "family-friendly" is not a term that comes immediately to mind.

The West Side is an easy commute from downtown Saint Paul; just a quick drive across the High Bridge or the Wabasha bridge. Commuting by bus is something that a number of my West Side friends have done, as downtown is just a few stops away. While United Hospital might be a bit far for this, I know a couple of people who live close to the bluffs who WALK to work in downtown! Shopping is close at hand as well, although less walkable than in some other neighborhoods; while I can't bring to mind a grocery store right in the neighborhood, West Saint Paul would have plenty of those along with big box-type stores and just about anything else, just a five-minute drive away. Grand Avenue shopping is a similar distance away across the High Bridge.

If the OP or anyone else on the thread has specific questions about the West Side, please feel free to post or PM. While I don't live in Saint Paul these days, I keep abreast of local developments, return as often as I can, and have lots of family and friends still in the area.

Nice post, clawhammerist! There are suburbanites who post here who think of large sections of a city (e.g., St Paul's West Side) are just another neighborhood to dismiss as "bad", when in actuality, as you have written, there are many varied neighborhoods WITHIN these large areas of the city thta can be as different as night and day. I agree with your comments that there are some great areas of the West Side that offer some of the most affordable home prices in good neighborhoods in the city.

RE: walking across the High Bridge, I have my car serviced at the garage at the South (West?) end of the bridge. I leave it there in the morning, then walk across the bridge to my office downtown. Yes, it takes awhile, but it's a beautiful view, and I sometimes take the side streets rather than W 7th to see a bit of the equally interetsing neighborhoods in the West End.