Where to live in metro Minneapolis? (St. Paul, Edina: hair salon, apartment, rentals)

[kittycat74]

I have no idea what metro means, but i thought i'd put that as it sounds relatively urban and that's essentially what i THINK is where we'd like to live.

Anyway...here's the criteria..and please no bun fights or squabbles or off topic, i just want to know what areas you think would fit MY bill, not get scrappy with each other about another's choices...thanks folks.

1. We're really, really old...like as old as mid 30's...my husband and I that is..oh and we have a young child, so although i like the idea of 'hip, eccentric, artsy, blah blah' we're probably not wanting to move to a completely 'up and coming' area that is actually full of meth heads in reality. That said, even going out as far as 'lovely' Edina makes me reach for a map and compass as it's sooooo far out from central Minneapolis to my European sensibilities and is so dull i want to start fires in people's gardens.
2. We're looking for period details...ie 'old' houses..built before 1930.
3. I want to walk to, erm..places..i dunno, just walk. Go get a coffee or a paper, browse interesting shops, be generally rather cavalier in my footfalls outside my gate away from my car...that brings me to the next point..in good weather that is...
5. Garden..or space...yard..whatever. I need that. And I need to be able to erect a proper fence and not feel i am breaking the 'let's erect the ugliest, correctile-facility style fence in a suburban environment' law. You have some gorgeous architecture...so why does no one do this?? Is there tax relief on that rottweiler resistant chain mail fencing I see everywhere?
6. OH yeah, parks and places to take a hyperactive 2 year old would be a huge bonus...good schools i guess though i think it's a tad early for all that stuff...maybe a nice kindergarten...preschool whatever..

It's a great city, i've done some schlepping around but i still can't suss out where would be best to live should we get the nod to move (from waaaay over the other side of the world). I need insider knowledge and i would like to ask for your opinions on your fine city.

[Slig]

It's clear you want to be in Minneapolis proper. The question is what neighorhood. I think this will depend heavily on how much you're looking to spend on a home. If you're wealthy look in SW and Calhoun Isles (300k-5 mil homes). If you're not look in Nokomis, Northeast or Longfellow (150-500k homes).

Powderhorn, Near-North, Camden and Phillips, although all have alot of great things to offer (I actually live in Powderhorn), they are communities in transition and may not be what you're looking for given your said criteria. However, I wouldn't completely write them off the list. If you find an unbelievable bargain anywhere in the city, it will be in one of those areas. Homes in these areas are generally sold in the range of 50-300k.

[Clifford63]

Originally Posted by kittycat74

I have no idea what metro means, but i thought i'd put that as it sounds relatively urban and that's essentially what i THINK is where we'd like to live.

Anyway...here's the criteria..and please no bun fights or squabbles or off topic, i just want to know what areas you think would fit MY bill, not get scrappy with each other about another's choices...thanks folks.

1. We're really, really old...like as old as mid 30's...my husband and I that is..oh and we have a young child, so although i like the idea of 'hip, eccentric, artsy, blah blah' we're probably not wanting to move to a completely 'up and coming' area that is actually full of meth heads in reality. That said, even going out as far as 'lovely' Edina makes me reach for a map and compass as it's sooooo far out from central Minneapolis to my European sensibilities and is so dull i want to start fires in people's gardens.
2. We're looking for period details...ie 'old' houses..built before 1930.
3. I want to walk to, erm..places..i dunno, just walk. Go get a coffee or a paper, browse interesting shops, be generally rather cavalier in my footfalls outside my gate away from my car...that brings me to the next point..in good weather that is...
5. Garden..or space...yard..whatever. I need that. And I need to be able to erect a proper fence and not feel i am breaking the 'let's erect the ugliest, correctile-facility style fence in a suburban environment' law. You have some gorgeous architecture...so why does no one do this?? Is there tax relief on that rottweiler resistant chain mail fencing I see everywhere?
6. OH yeah, parks and places to take a hyperactive 2 year old would be a huge bonus...good schools i guess though i think it's a tad early for all that stuff...maybe a nice kindergarten...preschool whatever..

It's a great city, i've done some schlepping around but i still can't suss out where would be best to live should we get the nod to move (from waaaay over the other side of the world). I need insider knowledge and i would like to ask for your opinions on your fine city.

If you think Edina is far and dull, that is a good piece of info to start with. Take dead center of Minneapolis and make a 9 mile diameter circle and see what is in there. That right there eliminates about 75 percent of what is considered metro. Slig nailed it pretty good when he asked what do you want to spend on a house as that will dictate what area is appropriate for most people.

I would add one piece of info - there are some really cool places to hang out and have fun that are not downtown. true that some of the big things like the guthrie and such are downtown, but there are many smaller venues scattered around. Shopping downtown is hit and miss. Farmers market is cool.

[Ben Around]

Check these St Paul neighborhoods out: St. Anthony Park (NOT the suburb called St. Anthony), Merriam Park, Macalester-Groveland. I agree with Longfellow/Minneapolis, and would add Prospect Park, Brackett Park and Seward in Minneapolis. All of these are well-established, safe and stable neighborhoods that meet all your criteria.

Good luck!

[MplsTodd]

I agree with the above comments, but would add a few places:

In Minneapolis:

Linden Hills: especially for its great little business district (43rd & Upton), lakes, and great neighborhood schools

Kingfield/Lynnhurst: East of Lake Harriet

Uptown: this is more young unmarried people, but I have several friends with kids who love this neighborhood

Seward/Longfellow: SE of downtown, close to the LRT and Mississippi River

NE Mpls: parts are better than others, but there are some nice neighborhoods here

ALSO:

St Paul:

Mac-Groveland
Highland Park
Merriam Park
St.Anthony

Suburban:

St Louis Park (east of Hwy 100): has some urban style amenities near Excelsior & Grand

GOOD LUCK!

[Camden Northsider]

Originally Posted by Slig

It's clear you want to be in Minneapolis proper. The question is what neighorhood. I think this will depend heavily on how much you're looking to spend on a home. If you're wealthy look in SW and Calhoun Isles (300k-5 mil homes). If you're not look in Nokomis, Northeast or Longfellow (150-500k homes).

I don't know - the criteria the OP has doesn't really fit a lot of neighborhoods in Minneapolis, he/she doesn't want a completely dull neighborhood, doesn't want something too "up and coming" (and is completely gentrified acceptable?), wants interesting shops to browse, etc. Nokomis is pretty residential and will not have businesses/ shops to browse, Northeast will but only in the areas that are more "up and coming", and Longfellow/ Seward will if you are closer to Lake Street or Franklin (in which case, based on your criteria I would recommend being as close to the Mississippi River as possible). Uptown might be something to look at, but this might be a denser urban area than you're seeking where yard space would be at a premium (and filled with a lot of bigger older houses that do not leave much yard space and/or have been converted into condos or rentals).

Otherwise, Linden Hills and some areas of Southwest would probably fit your bill (however, as Slig stated these are pretty spendy/ gentrified to the max and right next to Edina; St. Louis Park, as someone suggested, would be even farther out, and its residential areas IMO aren't very walking-accessible to businesses/ shops like you state you're interested in). So, you might need go compromise and/or come and get a feel for yourself. If you have money and you want to live only around others that also have money, go for Southwest/ Linden Hills area (although housing here might be cheaper than what you're used to). I'm not too familiar with neighborhoods of St. Paul, but I'm thinking you might have better luck there?

Originally Posted by Slig

Powderhorn, Near-North, Camden and Phillips, although all have alot of great things to offer (I actually live in Powderhorn), they are communities in transition and may not be what you're looking for given your said criteria. However, I wouldn't completely write them off the list. If you find an unbelievable bargain anywhere in the city, it will be in one of those areas. Homes in these areas are generally sold in the range of 50-300k.

I don't totally agree with this (but is definitely true to an extent) as the description doesn't fit my own neighborhood (Victory) in Camden, which I am almost tempted to recommend as it would meet all but your requirement to have interesting shops to browse in the neighborhood (there's not exactly much of a retail scene here). However, there are 3 restaurants, 1 cofee shop, deli/ gelato, tailors/ dry cleaners, clothing store, 2 masseuses, realtors, 2 arts-oriented businesses, 1 award-winning community theatre, all-ages music school, domino's pizza, and barbers/ hair salon all easily walkable from anywhere in the neighborhood, and if you live in the western part of the neighborhood it's actually not too far walk (maybe 20 minute walk or so) to Robbinsdale's downtown district/ commercial corridor. It's diverse but definitely not a community "in transition" (safe neighborhood comprised of 90% single family homeowners and has always had a higher median income than the city's average), good schools, park/ green spaces, etc. Home prices are all over the board here, the larger well-maintained homes right now are selling in the 200 - 300s (a year or two ago it was not unusual to see 400s and an occassional home in the 500s), but you can find some steals on the smaller homes here right now (incuding some low 100s), especially if you're not afraid to do a little work.

So, you will find a lot of areas in Minneapolis that meet some or a lot of your requirements, but depending on your price range or the neighborhood feel you're seeking, it could be tough to find it all. Good luck-

[kittycat74]

My goodness, wow, i really appreciate your detailed responses. To give you an idea of what little i know, i spent a few weeks there while my hubby was on a business trip and i walked alot around the south mostly down along franklin, the warehouse district bits and fairly far down along the river. I think i came out near the art museum? That amazing, crazy silver building? It was late September, the sky was the bluest i've ever seen in my life, the river and views blew me away, as did your museums and 'cultural' stuff. Great restaurants, bars, big enough to be diverse, small enough to walk places. In short, I was just hugely taken with Minneapolis, but I am afraid of the winter..

We stayed at some 'so-so' self catering suites which were a tad north of the very centre - no idea what they were called..i remember there was a very good steak house round the corner, a good wine store and nice antique store, cool bars, galleries and gift shops..i liked all this, but i don't want to live in a loft/condo/apartment. I want a porch and a small yard is fine, i guess it'll be covered in snow most of the year and i'm a terrible gardener anyway, but i don't want to be 2 feet away from my neighbour's house and have an open lot all the way around. No way.

We were taken to the Bryant bowling alley place I loved the vibe around there. I guess I want that kind of 'hip, urbanite' kinda feel and that usually means leaning towards areas that are in the process of being gentrified..that's totally fine, but i want to be able to walk around after dark or with my child and also not feel like the oldest person there because everyone is at University.

I want a lot you see and i realise it's a tall order!

It's not that i hated Edina, but to me it felt very suburban and just consisted of acres of very nice houses, but i'd need to get in a car to actually go and do something, i don't know...maybe i was taken to a more suburban part. I don't believe i was shown the famous 50th and france. I like the sound of the architecture..

We'd be renting first and then hopefully buying a year or whatever down the line..i guess up to about 600K

Thanks again folks, see how nice you Minnesotans are?!! It's all true.

[Minnehahapolitan]

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[Minnehahapolitan]

As far as particular neighborhoods, I would strongly look into the Highland Park area of Saint Paul. There is alot of commercial activity, transportation options are good and it is not as dense as a place like Uptown. It caters to more families than urbanistas.
Grand Avenue in Saint Paul is also a wonderful area to look into. Older and more upscale than Highland. More boutiques, less utilitarian retail.
If you didn't see 50th and France, it is pretty urban. Upscale and expensive, but urban. It is served by a good busline, and is basically in Mpls. Oddly, though, it is pindrop quiet after 11:00, so not nightlife (of any sort) urban.
Uptown and Lyn-Lake are urban along their major streets, but you can get a single family home in the area fairly easily. The further east you go from Uptown, the more marginal the area becomes (stay west of about Grand).
Lastly, you may find Bryn Mawr to your liking. The commercial area is very small, and it borders a bad area. The houses are well-kept, though. It is ridicously close to downtown.
Best of luck.

[Ben Around]

Originally Posted by Minnehahapolitan

As far as particular neighborhoods, I would strongly look into the Highland Park area of Saint Paul. There is alot of commercial activity, transportation options are good and it is not as dense as a place like Uptown. It caters to more families than urbanistas.
Grand Avenue in Saint Paul is also a wonderful area to look into. Older and more upscale than Highland. More boutiques, less utilitarian retail.
If you didn't see 50th and France, it is pretty urban. Upscale and expensive, but urban. It is served by a good busline, and is basically in Mpls. Oddly, though, it is pindrop quiet after 11:00, so not nightlife (of any sort) urban.
Uptown and Lyn-Lake are urban along their major streets, but you can get a single family home in the area fairly easily. The further east you go from Uptown, the more marginal the area becomes (stay west of about Grand).
Lastly, you may find Bryn Mawr to your liking. The commercial area is very small, and it borders a bad area. The houses are well-kept, though. It is ridicously close to downtown.
Best of luck.

I live in Highland Park and love it, but I didn't recommend it to Kitty because it didn't meet all her criteria. Very few of the houses were built prior to the 30s, and it its farther from downtown Mpls than are neighborhoods like St Anthong Pk, Merriam Pk and even Mac-Groveland.