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Old 06-08-2015, 05:45 AM
 
Location: roswell ga
36 posts, read 108,892 times
Reputation: 18

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Quite frankly the car inspection scares the hell out out of me,
The wife and I have three cars that need inspection when we move up that way.. I have no idea how the process works or what they look for,we have three older cars 99-2001 and I do all my own maintenance.I do know all will most likely need tires and breaks and one needs CV boots before the trip up but other then that they need nothing that would be considered a safety issues..

I am one of those weirdos who does not like car payments so I tend to buy good used cars and keep them a while..
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:12 AM
 
Location: Londonderry, NH
41,505 posts, read 49,538,721 times
Reputation: 24548
I do as well. My Subaru just turned 100,000 miles. The mechanic I have inspecting my cars just noted a leaking axle boot. I replaced all four axles before another boot leaked where I could not have it fixed. Your biggest problem with moving your cars up here will not be the inspection but with RUST. I strongly suggest having your cars undercoated with an oil based material before their first winter.
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Old 06-08-2015, 08:40 AM
 
4,705 posts, read 4,819,572 times
Reputation: 4833
Quote:
Originally Posted by swampbuck View Post
Quite frankly the car inspection scares the hell out out of me,

Absolutely nothing to worry about.
Just get your vehicles "inspected" before you go for the real inspection.
As stated in my post on page one of this thread.

If there are any issues - you fix them yourself - or have them fixed.
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:51 AM
 
Location: roswell ga
36 posts, read 108,892 times
Reputation: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by unit731 View Post
Absolutely nothing to worry about.
Just get your vehicles "inspected" before you go for the real inspection.
As stated in my post on page one of this thread.

If there are any issues - you fix them yourself - or have them fixed.
sounds like the way to go....
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:19 PM
 
5 posts, read 8,463 times
Reputation: 15
Hi, Welcome to NH. I own a garage in Milford NH so I have no hope of getting you as a client. 1) tell the garage you go to to not hook up the the state computer unless the car passes all other tests. One of the scams we regularly see, is a mechanic will enter into the computer a big list of failings on your car. This makes the next mechanic look like he is giving out easy stickers and makes him a target of the state during his next audit. We combat this by listing everything the other guy stated and giving the manufacturer specs and exactly what we found, then we state we feel the other guy was attempting to sell unneeded parts. This takes some of the heat off of us and puts it on the other guy during his next audit. but it is a pain to do so these guys mostly get away with this stuff.

It is not uncommon for us to see a $2000.00 estimate from a garage and when they come to us the bill comes in $1000.00 less. We walk the client around the car when it is up on the lift and show them everything the other garage listed and tell them why we feel it either needs to be replaced or not. It is very common for someone to be told they need an axle because a CV boot is leaking. This is not the law in NH they should not fail for a leaking boot. A boot might leak for 2 years before a CV joint requires replacing, as long as the bearings are good it passes. The list goes on and on... You have to find a garage that will show you what is wrong AND be honest because so many people just don't have a clue. Remember different mechanics will see different things. if you don't feel right about what a guy is telling you, trust your gut feeling and get a second opinion. There is a lot of pressure to sell parts because almost 1/2 the shops profit comes from parts sales. I wish you all the best in your search for a good shop they are out there!
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:34 PM
 
Location: Manchester NH
2,317 posts, read 2,624,479 times
Reputation: 3230
Quote:
Originally Posted by Horseless Carriage View Post
Hi, Welcome to NH. I own a garage in Milford NH so I have no hope of getting you as a client. 1) tell the garage you go to to not hook up the the state computer unless the car passes all other tests. One of the scams we regularly see, is a mechanic will enter into the computer a big list of failings on your car. This makes the next mechanic look like he is giving out easy stickers and makes him a target of the state during his next audit. We combat this by listing everything the other guy stated and giving the manufacturer specs and exactly what we found, then we state we feel the other guy was attempting to sell unneeded parts. This takes some of the heat off of us and puts it on the other guy during his next audit. but it is a pain to do so these guys mostly get away with this stuff.

It is not uncommon for us to see a $2000.00 estimate from a garage and when they come to us the bill comes in $1000.00 less. We walk the client around the car when it is up on the lift and show them everything the other garage listed and tell them why we feel it either needs to be replaced or not. It is very common for someone to be told they need an axle because a CV boot is leaking. This is not the law in NH they should not fail for a leaking boot. A boot might leak for 2 years before a CV joint requires replacing, as long as the bearings are good it passes. The list goes on and on... You have to find a garage that will show you what is wrong AND be honest because so many people just don't have a clue. Remember different mechanics will see different things. if you don't feel right about what a guy is telling you, trust your gut feeling and get a second opinion. There is a lot of pressure to sell parts because almost 1/2 the shops profit comes from parts sales. I wish you all the best in your search for a good shop they are out there!
Ain't that the truth.. I can cite three examples.. One was a big box store that quoted my wife a six hundred dollar brake job on her Fiero.. one was a quote on my old ranger that included four shocks ( replaced them a mere 3 months prior, and the most recent was a failure for surface rust on the rotor.. this one wouldn't budge even after I went back to the dealer I bought the car from who gave me a print out of the specs.. that was almost two years ago.. guess what.. the rotor is still doing just fine
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:29 PM
 
5 posts, read 8,463 times
Reputation: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by GregW View Post
I do as well. My Subaru just turned 100,000 miles. The mechanic I have inspecting my cars just noted a leaking axle boot. I replaced all four axles before another boot leaked where I could not have it fixed. Your biggest problem with moving your cars up here will not be the inspection but with RUST. I strongly suggest having your cars undercoated with an oil based material before their first winter.
A leaking boot is not a fail item in a NH state inspection. However if the joint is bad under the boot then that would give a fail. Some boots leak for years before the joint goes bad. Boots can be changed without replacing an axle. I wish you all the best...
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:56 PM
 
5 posts, read 8,463 times
Reputation: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by michigan83 View Post
I've always thought that the car inspection thing was perfectly set up for scamming. My wife is from New Hampshire and that was really my first time hearing about car inspections. I am glad we don't have them here in Michigan. I suppose that's one area where we are outpacing NH in "living free". And also possibly in "dying," if one of our non-inspected cars has a wheel fall off or something.

The only way that "big brother" can bother us about our vehicles is if something is visibly unsafe or broken, in which case it is possible to be pulled over and given a "fix-it" ticket. Other than that, we are very much left alone when it comes to what we are driving and what repairs we choose to make or not make.
Up until 1996 there were two basic goals in the NH inspection. Now there are three; 1) make it so you don't kill some other poor sap. 2) make it so your car doesn't kill you. Since 1996 the state added OBDII testing this involves 3) having the computer on your car report if the emissions controls are working properly. Again these are the basic goals, all items in the inspection are related to these three main themes. Sadly some mechanics abuse the rules to promote parts sales. Always ask for the old parts when you make your appointment. This can act as a preventative to a guy who is on the edge and inclined to sell parts not needed, you will have the evidence in your possession. I own a shop and I am also a state inspector. I personally HATE the OBDII part of the test. All of my personal cars are older than 1996 so I don't have to deal with that part of the exam on my own cars. Well maintained and well oiled (Fliud film your car people, it will keep your car alive forever) cars are way less expensive over the long haul. I own a 1967 volvo p1800, a 1949 Plymouth deluxe coupe, a 1995 dodge 1500 truck and a 1982 volvo 242 and I will tell you this... I have never replace one part because the computer said it was bad. not one. We regularly have to replace parts on newer cars like filler necks, catalytic converters, O2 sensors, knock sensors, and the list goes on and on, on cars that are running perfectly well with no determinable issue by the driver. It makes me sick for someone to be forced to pay for this stuff.
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:48 AM
 
136 posts, read 111,098 times
Reputation: 122
One of the mechanic (say X) with whom I did paid pre-inspection suggests that the entire exhaust system needs to be replaced. He is saying that there are multiple leaks and the entire exhaust system needs replacement. He is quoting $700 to do that. Other things suggested by that mechanic were.. to fix the dysfunctional driver side window, change left rear tire.

Before going to X, I happened to visit two other mechanics.. say Y and Z.. to Y for oil change, courtesy check up and to Z just for courtesy check up. The courtesy checkups were done from state inspection perspective.

Both Y and Z suggested the following things:
- fix the driver side window
- exhaust system has a leak in mid pipe and it just needs to be "fixed".
- fix the broken sway bar links.

I am now really confused with the discrepancy in the findings.

X wants to replace the tire, but Y and Z aren't bothered.
Y and Z wants to fix the sway bar links, but X doesn't care about it.
Y and Z just want to fix the exhaust system, while X wants a complete replacement.

I have slight inclination for X because replacing the entire exhaust system and tires do more to the car's life and functioning than fixing the sway bar links. What do you suggest?

Somehow all 3 mechanics are keen on getting the quote close $1000.

Excuse me if I have stated or interpreted anything incorrectly as I don't much knowledge on the cars.
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:05 PM
 
445 posts, read 566,643 times
Reputation: 936
Quote:
Originally Posted by curidpostn View Post
One of the mechanic (say X) with whom I did paid pre-inspection suggests that the entire exhaust system needs to be replaced. He is saying that there are multiple leaks and the entire exhaust system needs replacement. He is quoting $700 to do that. Other things suggested by that mechanic were.. to fix the dysfunctional driver side window, change left rear tire.

Before going to X, I happened to visit two other mechanics.. say Y and Z.. to Y for oil change, courtesy check up and to Z just for courtesy check up. The courtesy checkups were done from state inspection perspective.

Both Y and Z suggested the following things:
- fix the driver side window
- exhaust system has a leak in mid pipe and it just needs to be "fixed".
- fix the broken sway bar links.

I am now really confused with the discrepancy in the findings.

X wants to replace the tire, but Y and Z aren't bothered.
Y and Z wants to fix the sway bar links, but X doesn't care about it.
Y and Z just want to fix the exhaust system, while X wants a complete replacement.

I have slight inclination for X because replacing the entire exhaust system and tires do more to the car's life and functioning than fixing the sway bar links. What do you suggest?

Somehow all 3 mechanics are keen on getting the quote close $1000.

Excuse me if I have stated or interpreted anything incorrectly as I don't much knowledge on the cars.
What's the make, mileage, & age of your car? It sounds like there's a lot of stuff wrong with it. Have you looked at the tire? And is the driver side window dysfunctional? Do you want to drive a car with failing sway bar links? As far as:

"replacing the entire exhaust system and tires do more to the car's life and functioning than fixing the sway bar links" Really? You really don't want to drive around with any of these: bad tires, bad exhaust system, or failing sway bar links.......PS I don't think sway bar links are that expensive......
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