Relocating a young family. How about Durham? (Manchester, Dover: sales, real estate) - City-Data Forum

HarrisonTweed · 01-03-2010, 08:17 PM

Hi.
I've been reading here for a while now and appreciate all the information, photos and discussion. Thanks!

I've seen a number of threads having to do with the schools in NH.
It seems to be the general consensus that (among others) the Oyster River School District is good to very good.

And a number of threads have focused on the coastal region for relocation but they seem primarily to deal with Portsmouth or Dover.

I'm wondering why Durham seems to be off the radar.

I know taxes are high (an unfortunate side effect of a good school system and a lack of income or sales tax, I suppose), but the benefits of the town itself would seem, on paper at least, to be plentiful.

I've only passed through the town a couple of times, but here's the impression I've gotten.
Durham has a small town feel (in a good way), but at the same time, the university would certainly provide an influx of constantly updated culture (speakers, music, theatre, visual art etc) and a youthful and academic energy.

The town's proximity to the coast would seem to make it desirable for obvious reasons while the presence of the Downeaster provides easy (if not a bit pricey for a full family) access to Portland, Boston and points in between.

Yet, it seems that the town is often overlooked when it comes to discussions about moving to the greater coastal region.

I think I've read more about Barrington here than I have Durham.

Is there a huge downside to living so near to UNH that I'm missing? Is it a beer drenched mess after 8PM?
Is crime a growing problem in the area?
Or is it that Portsmouth and Dover simply cast too large a shadow?

I would think that in discussions focusing on areas like Exeter or Barrington, Durham would rate a few mentions.

We have two children (6 and 8) and like the idea of a small town near the coast with a heralded school system so near to a university, but the fact that it hasn't been mentioned much here has me thinking that I'm missing something...

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

.

mdamien · 01-04-2010, 10:57 AM

Durham is a wonderful college town. It's probably off the radar because it is so expensive. It's one of the first towns we looked in when we were house-hunting recently.

HarrisonTweed · 01-04-2010, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdamien

Durham is a wonderful college town. It's probably off the radar because it is so expensive. It's one of the first towns we looked in when we were house-hunting recently.

Thanks for the input, mdamien. I have a generally favorable view of the town, but it's only based on a couple of quick passes and from online searches.

In the midwest, college towns tend to go either way. Some can be subdued and engaging while others can be problematic for their surrounding community because of excessive drinking or just general "finally off the leash" behavior, particularly in smaller towns (about the size of Durham) where the impact is amplified.

I know more about places like Manchester, Portsmouth and Dover by reputation and by having been there, but I'm not sure about Durham's reputation.

Sounds like you'd give it a thumbs up, which is encouraging.

.

steveusaf · 01-04-2010, 06:49 PM

Durham is a great place, don't get me wrong.

"Is it a beer drenched mess after 8PM?" - on weekends at least, yes. When I was a single 21 year old, I used to love visiting that beer drenched mess. Depending on how far away from the campus you are, you may or may not like it as a parent of young children.

"a youthful and academic energy" - See above comment. Not sure how much of that youthful energy you want to put up with at 4 in the morning, depending on where you live in Durham. Further away from the campus, you might not even know you're living in a college town. Just be aware how far away your home is from the campus.

Personally, my political perspective could not endure the climate of a liberal college town. As an Air Force ROTC cadet in 1998-2000, I was looked at by some with disgust and even called a "baby killer" once. God only knows what the climate is there now - probably more hostile than what I put up with. The kids loved to protest about almost anything, wanting to get their fill of the 60s mentality and feel like they're "having an impact". If that's your thing, though, you'd probably love it. Just be prepared for the "culture" of a college town.

I've never thought of Durham as a family town. I've thought of it as a college town for college aged people - and that's OK with me. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking a college town and family town can't be one and the same. I did grow up on the seacoast, so I do know something about the area. Your mileage may vary. Good luck in whatever you decide. The whole area is absolutely beautiful...

steveusaf · 01-04-2010, 06:53 PM

Forgot to mention - the Oyster River School District does have a well earned reputation of excellence. Most would sell their left arm to send their kids there. And yes, it is expensive, but I'm just guessing that it's more an issue of lack of tax base (I don't think UNH pays property taxes) rather than the school system, but that's just a guess.

HarrisonTweed · 01-05-2010, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steveusaf

Durham is a great place, don't get me wrong.

"Is it a beer drenched mess after 8PM?" - on weekends at least, yes. When I was a single 21 year old, I used to love visiting that beer drenched mess. Depending on how far away from the campus you are, you may or may not like it as a parent of young children.

"a youthful and academic energy" - See above comment. Not sure how much of that youthful energy you want to put up with at 4 in the morning, depending on where you live in Durham. Further away from the campus, you might not even know you're living in a college town. Just be aware how far away your home is from the campus.

Personally, my political perspective could not endure the climate of a liberal college town. As an Air Force ROTC cadet in 1998-2000, I was looked at by some with disgust and even called a "baby killer" once. God only knows what the climate is there now - probably more hostile than what I put up with. The kids loved to protest about almost anything, wanting to get their fill of the 60s mentality and feel like they're "having an impact". If that's your thing, though, you'd probably love it. Just be prepared for the "culture" of a college town.

I've never thought of Durham as a family town. I've thought of it as a college town for college aged people - and that's OK with me. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking a college town and family town can't be one and the same. I did grow up on the seacoast, so I do know something about the area. Your mileage may vary. Good luck in whatever you decide. The whole area is absolutely beautiful...

Thanks for the perspective steve.

I have a feeling that we find ourselves on the same side of the political spectrum (though perhaps to differing degrees?) but I suppose if the quality of life (schools, amenities, proximity to the shore etc) is high enough the annoyances of classroom zealots can be tolerated. at least from an appropriate distance, as you suggest.

I guess I assumed UNH might be a bit less liberal/reactionary than some state schools due to its reputation as a terrific business school and the fact that it's located in NH.

Your characterization of the town itself on weekends is troubling (if not altogether surprising...I was young once too).
It would be a shame to be near to a small town that I'd be weary of taking our kids to on Saturdays and Sundays.

I wonder if you have an alternative suggestion?

Again, we have two young children so schools are a priority and we'd like something near the coast if possible.

mdamien · 01-05-2010, 04:07 PM

Let me add that Durham is a pretty big area. That downtown strip that gets noisy (not too noisy by college town standards) would probably be too obtrusive, but there are quiet "faculty" areas also.

Lee is nearby and woodsy, but the property taxes are ridiculous like most of the area.

We also looked at houses in Portsmouth, Dover, Exeter, and around the area because we like being near the ocean, but we also like having a nice big yard.

steveusaf · 01-05-2010, 06:58 PM

You would be fine, as mdamien says, if you stayed on the outskirts of the town. It would feel just like the surrounding towns of Lee or Madbury (also in Oyster River School District). I'm partial to Barrington, as I just bought some wooded land there to build a house on in 5 years, but I like the rural lifestyle. If you're looking for more of an "in town" feel, maybe Newmarket or the outskirts of Dover would be nice. Greenland or Stratham would also be nice, close to Portsmouth, but is also very expensive like Durham. The schools in any of those towns don't have the reputation of Oyster River, but that's a pretty high bar to set. Bottom line - be aware of how close to the middle of Durham you are and you should have no surprises. Good luck...

rmcewan · 01-05-2010, 07:21 PM

I live in Madbury, about 5 mins from central Durham. Downtown Durham caters for the student population almost exclusively: mostly cheap bars, convenience stores, a laundry, a coffee shop, and pizza or other cheap and cheerful food all surrounded by frats, sororities, and student digs. It is not a downtown for everyone like Portsmouth, Dover, or Exeter. The exceptions are Young's diner, the Bagelry, and Durham Marketplace grocery. The locals take back the town during summer and Christmas breaks. I would describe the non student character of the town as crunchy but family friendly. You will find neighborhoods walkable to downtown that have no student vibe at all (e.g. Canney Farms). The zoning seems to limit multi-unit housing the main roads.
The town does plenty of the usual things any small town in America does or has: all the usual parades and ceremonies, any flavor church, parks and playgrounds. UNH has downsides, but also upsides: the recreational facilities, sporting events, concerts and shows are all available for the locals. UNH owns large tracts of land in Durham and the surrounding towns that the public can use (walking, snowshoeing, even snowmobiling). The oyster river meets great bay just south of downtown and there are a couple of public launches. The town has an ice rink (in addition to the UNH rink), soccer fields. The town has several conservation tracts, including Wagon Hill Farm which boasts a fantastic sledding hill in winter, and beautiful views and walks beside Great Bay.
It really is a VERY VERY nice town overall -just don't expect too much from downtown. It is only let down by its crazy tax rate ($27 per $1000 of value in 2009). It is that tax rate that put us in Madbury ($23/1000 - less than Dover in 09).
And finally - you will not drown in liberalism. Yes the town is blue - but UNH is here people, not some artsy trust fund luvvin ivy league school!

twinmum · 01-06-2010, 04:26 PM

I think Durham is a nice town. I personally chose Exeter for my West Coast to East Coast relocation. Besides wanting a bigger town & recommendations it also had to do with real estate availability when we where looking(winter). From my experience you cannot go wrong with most towns in this area, it just depends on what you are looking for.