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That Truck is at the end of it's lifespan and will just be one problem after another. I would buy something new or close to new or not buy a pickup if you do not need a pickup.
thanks for all the helpful advice everyone. Good points. Going to decide to pass and, I guess, wait for another opportunity. Finding a good deal on a truck in the northeast is exhausting!
Good move!
Scout dealer lots often for “certified”vehicles. Not totally perfect but a good dealer, not those bandito lots, but a dealer with new, used inventory and a full service bay would b3 a better option IMHO
Let us know what you did so we can close the loop on this interesting thread
After knowing people in the car business, KBB's "trade in values" are wildly inflated. Many pay for a subscription to Galves for a running update on used car values.
I've purchased a very short term subscription when I was looking for or selling a car.
That said, since you're willing to look out of state consider looking in a more southerly direction.
We've bought the following low mileage used cars out of VA, all from new car dealers:
Scout dealer lots often for “certified”vehicles. Not totally perfect but a good dealer, not those bandito lots, but a dealer with new, used inventory and a full service bay would b3 a better option IMHO
Let us know what you did so we can close the loop on this interesting thread
This is an option. But "certified pre-owned" vehicles will demand a high price which often negates the advantages of buying used. At those prices, new is a better option if you can afford it. Keep in mind a few things about dealerships:
1) Used (or certified pre-owned) cars are a dealership's highest profit margin. Next is parts and service. The lowest profit margin is on new cars. The reason for this is that with all the info regarding MSRP and dealer invoice pricing on the internet, it is nearly impossible for a dealer to pull a fast one on an educated buyer. Used car values are so variable depending on so many factors, it is difficult to pinpoint an exact value, therefore there is more room to pull a fast profit.
2) If shopping at a dealer, the best time to shop is within 2 hours of closing time and near the end of a quarter (end of Dec., March, June, Sept.). Salespeople want to go home on time too like the rest of us. They will be more likely to cut a deal rather than play with you. They will never say "come back tomorrow" because they know you may go somewhere else and they may lose a sale. Also, dealers want to clear their inventory at the end of a quarter and are more likely to give you a better price.
3) Whoever mentions numbers (price) first loses. Don't make an offer. Wait for them to make an offer.
This is an option. But "certified pre-owned" vehicles will demand a high price which often negates the advantages of buying used. At those prices, new is a better option if you can afford it. Keep in mind a few things about dealerships:
1) Used (or certified pre-owned) cars are a dealership's highest profit margin. Next is parts and service. The lowest profit margin is on new cars. The reason for this is that with all the info regarding MSRP and dealer invoice pricing on the internet, it is nearly impossible for a dealer to pull a fast one on an educated buyer. Used car values are so variable depending on so many factors, it is difficult to pinpoint an exact value, therefore there is more room to pull a fast profit.
2) If shopping at a dealer, the best time to shop is within 2 hours of closing time and near the end of a quarter (end of Dec., March, June, Sept.). Salespeople want to go home on time too like the rest of us. They will be more likely to cut a deal rather than play with you. They will never say "come back tomorrow" because they know you may go somewhere else and they may lose a sale. Also, dealers want to clear their inventory at the end of a quarter and are more likely to give you a better price.
3) Whoever mentions numbers (price) first loses. Don't make an offer. Wait for them to make an offer.
Ask for something called the "carfax",if the car does not have one ,run. It's free online.
Not 100% accurate. It will not flag an accident unless a police report was filed. Many accidents are not reported to police or insurance. If repairs cost under $2,000, many will just eat the cost rather than risk their insurance premiums increasing.
Also, the free report will not elaborate on "incidents". An incident could be something as benign as a previous sale (every title change is an incident) or even a major service at a dealership. Or it could be a major wreck, an odometer rollback or even a salvage. You will not see details unless you pay.
Carfax can still help to find red flags, but as I stated, it's not 100%.
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