Specific Jersey City questions from a grad student looking for housing (Newark: real estate, apartment)

[NomadStephanie]

I know you all are probably getting sick of questions about Jersey City, but I can at least tell you I've sat here and spent hours reading through threads here about it before posting. I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge and diversity of opinion represented here! But while I feel much more educated about the area thanks to you all, I wanted to see if I could further clarify a few points.

First, let me lay out my situation. I am halfway through a master's program at a New York school. Last year I was in university housing; this year, it is not an option. In choosing where to look for an apartment, I went for convenience and access to public transportation. Given that I will be going to an internship in Newark three days a week, and classes in lower Manhattan twice a week, Jersey City seemed a natural choice. My main desire is to find affordable housing in a reasonably safe area near the PATH train.

I started out focused on the area around the Journal Square PATH stop. I was pretty content with what I was finding, in preparation for a "scouting trip" I'm about to go on to the area to find an apartment (I'm currently living with family over a day's drive beyond the area). However, reading some of the threads here has me wondering about my game plan. My main concerns are safety and accessibility to needed resources within walking distance, especially groceries. I spent last year in the Brooklyn Heights area and have gotten used to the noise and features of urban life. And I'm not expecting to be anywhere near the level of froofiness of Brooklyn Heights. I don't mind being somewhere a little grimy, a little rundown, as long as I am safe and as long as it doesn't become an obnoxious difficulty to go grocery shopping. I also ideally want to be somewhere I can walk through the neighborhood and to a restaurant, bar, or shop, with a reasonable degree of safety.

I'm worrying that I might be getting in over my head with the JSQ area. I've developed some street smarts, but I'm starting to wonder if this area will test my limits as someone relatively new to urban living, and if I'm about to make a stupid move. I'm not so concerned that people around me might be doing illegal things, or cars might get stolen, or the area might be grimy and ugly. And I'm not sad that the area's not a yuppie haven. I love the diversity of the NYC area, in terms of class, race, and everything else. The bottom line is that I simply want to be somewhere that I can get by relatively safely as long as I mind my own business. I've done fine in NYC so far but it sounds like Jersey City is going to be a step up in the level of roughness.

From what I've read here, I've picked up that the area near the Grove Street and Exchange Place PATH stops might be more ideal for my purposes. But I'm not sure that I'm going to be able to afford the going rent in those areas. If I can find an affordable place in that area, I would definitely go for it, given it seems it will be way more convenient to grocery stores, shops, bars, etc., and a little safer. But if I can't, what else would my option be but to go with the Journal Square area? You guys certainly haven't made it sound like Mister Rogers' Neighborhood, but I also am not sure what exact level of danger and decrepitude we're talking about here.

Any thoughts for me? Any advice? Sorry if this is a redundant post, again, I've tried my best to read up on this thoroughly before posting.

[todd72173]

I went from living in Marlboro/NJ to JSQ (Heights). Let me tell ya, wham bam difference! I was never robbed, broken into, etc. I just was careful. Even some times came home at 5AM and walked the mile from JSQ to Manhatten Blvd. Yes, walked all by myself. I might have bashed JC in past, but if you are aware of your surroundings and dont act stupid, its fine. I walked 1 Mile everyday from manhatten to JSQ to get on path for 2 years. Everyday there are homeless people, shady people, etc. But, nothing crazy. Good luck.. If my wife did it (she didnt walk though like me), anyone can.

[NomadStephanie]

Thanks, Todd. What you wrote reinforces the impression I was getting - that the area is rough around the edges but not exactly a war zone either.

What is the area like in terms of resources? Is Lincoln Park a nice place to walk during the day or is it shady even then? What about grocery shopping? Looking online, it looks like there may be only one large grocery store in the immediate area. I'm having visions of having to ride the PATH down to Grove Street to go to Pathmark to shop for groceries... Also, I'm not expecting a "cute" neighborhood with a huge shopping district, but are there any good bars or restaurants in the area? I'd like to think that if I was feeling lonely or restless in my apartment, I could get out and walk down the street and find somewhere to hang for a while. That's one of my favorite things about urban living, in New York especially, not having to get in the car and drive ten miles to find a place to chill.

[todd72173]

Well, when we moved in the heights, we knew nobody, didnt even know where to shop for food. Talk about being not prepared. Anyways, it took about 1 year to figure stuff out. I remember calling my real estate agent weeks after we moved in asking for directions on the phone.

Anyways, what we learned in 2 years. I lived on sherman ave between manhatten and jfk blv.

Food - We drove to hoboken and shopped in the super shop rite. Beautiful store. There is a small/old StopNShop on corner of central/manhatten - but it has no deli, no fish, no meat dept. Its like a mini drug store. Only went there for emergencies and could walk there. Backups are the A&P downtown by the Newport Mall

Resturaunts - Rita&Joes Italian.
Pizza - Mama Lioni on central and sherman.
Liquor Store - Central Ave liquors/Manhatten
Bars - Dont know. Never been to one in JC as they all seemed like rock in holes. Went to hoboken/nyc instead


We definately needed a car in the heights just to drive to Shop Rite mainly. Also to the newport mall.

[JimmyLane]

Originally Posted by NomadStephanie

I'm worrying that I might be getting in over my head with the JSQ area. I've developed some street smarts, but I'm starting to wonder if this area will test my limits as someone relatively new to urban living, and if I'm about to make a stupid move. I'm not so concerned that people around me might be doing illegal things, or cars might get stolen, or the area might be grimy and ugly.

Oh, really? Yeah, you're a grad student alright.

Originally Posted by NomadStephanie

And I'm not sad that the area's not a yuppie haven.

Why should you be sad when you'd rather they steal and partake in other "illegal things."

Originally Posted by NomadStephanie

I love the diversity of the NYC area, in terms of class, race, and everything else. The bottom line is that I simply want to be somewhere that I can get by relatively safely as long as I mind my own business.

Sounds like an oxymoron, don't you think? But what do I know, I'm not a grad student anymore.

[DragonXJC]

It sounds like The Heights would be a good fit for you, just make sure you stay WEST of Kennedy Blvd and you'll be fine. That is considered the more quiet area without zone parking(but parking is still HELL!) . I live in this area now. I on the other hand am born and raised in Jersey City (Originally from the Greenville section). So I'm used to the "urban" atmosphere. For the most part, rule #1, mind your business and keep it moving. No one bothers you here unless you're nosy.

Alot of young professionals are moving to the area, but more of the type that have some sense and don't want to pay the ridiculous prices of the "yupified" Downtown area.

Transportation to the "Square" is simple if you live near Kennedy Blvd. Just hop on one of the "immi buses" aka shuttle buses, $1.50. They come one behind the other, overlapping, so there's no wait. Late nights? take a taxi from the square, should be just about 5 bucks.


Grocery shopping? If you drive, or even if you don't,hop on the "immi" bus (north). Food Basic on Kennedy Blvd, is the best deal in the area. StopnShop is a joke.

Hope this helps.

[tommyc_37]

Stephanie,

Honestly, Journal Square is definitely not a war zone. It's not the safest place, but it's not too dangerous. I've walked around there at night, but then again I'm an above average sized guy.

But I don't think it's exactly what you are looking for. There are virtually NO bars or cafes or anything to hang out in, and the few that there are, contain clientele that you probably wouldn't want to mingle with.

The rents in Journal Square are DEFINITELY cheap, so that's a plus.

I would feel more comfortable if you found a "hole in the wall" type place (aka cheaper rent) in Downtown JC.

ADVICE: Spend some time in Journal Square at night, and see if it spooks you.

QUESTION: What's your budget?

[NomadStephanie]

Thanks, guys. This is helping a lot.

My maximum budget for rent and utilities per month is $1200. I probably could get away with $1300 if I had to.

My research and what you've told me has shown that the Grove Street area is more ideal. I've seen some spots and rents in that area that are within my price range, but it generally looks like I'm less likely to find a good, affordable spot there than I am in the Journal Square area.

As much as I'd like to be in a neighborhood that has a bit more going on for it than JSQ seems to, at the end of the day, as long as I'm safe, I'd rather have a slightly nicer apartment. I'm not that picky, but if I can choose between an apartment with a little more space and light, rather than one that's dark and dingy, I think that will do my state of mind more good than what else is around the block. The winter really got to me last year and I worry about my state of mind if I go for some windowless closet just to be closer to shops and whatnot. If I really just can't find anything within walking distance in terms of spots to hang, I can get on the train and ride down to Grove Street, or NYC.

I know you were trying to get a rise out of me and make some sort of point, Jimmy, but to be clear, of course I don't like being somewhere that any sort of crime is going on. But I also try to appreciate the social dynamics that create a situation, and people stealing other people's cars is better than people killing each other. Sometimes people who are struggling economically are driven to desperate acts, especially if it seems impossible to succeed via a more "legitimate" route. Doing stuff that harms property is better than doing stuff that harms people. I mean, I don't know how it could be any more simple and obvious than that.

Dragon--yes, your Rule #1 is what I internalized my first year in New York. If you project a focused, calm energy, people generally don't bother you. Except panhandlers, maybe. But I don't want to take that for granted--I'm pretty tough, but I'm not invincible. So I'm definitely going to make part of my "assignment" during my 3-day apartment search to walk around Journal Square and just see how it feels. I've heard of the shuttle buses, and my curiosity is piqued. And thanks for the grocery store tip.

Tommy -- I think you're right about Downtown vs. JSQ. I'm keeping my eye peeled to see if anything in that area pops up that's in my price range. I definitely think it would be a more self-contained neighborhood to live in, and so I'm going to see what I can find around that area. But I'm also feeling a bit more comfortable with JSQ as my main backup spot. Not ideal, but as long as I feel comfortable walking around the area, it will be fine.

Thanks again, guys.

[NomadStephanie]

Oh, I should also mention that my BIG requirement is proximity to a PATH stop. I'm looking for no more than a mile from whatever station I'll be closest to. I'm aware there is a good system of buses and the lightrail, but my commutes are going to be lengthy enough as is, and the simpler I can make it the better.

Which brings up another question--do I remember correctly that a monthly Metrocard can also be used on the PATH? I assume, however, when I take the bus to my internship site in Newark from the PATH station, I'm just going to have to use change. Guess I need to do some research on Jersey public transit...

[majesty318]

A monthly unlimited Metro Card cannot be used on the Path. You can use a pay-per-ride Metro Card, or a Path card. They are $52 for 40 trips or $1.75 for a single trip.