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Donna's on Rampart Street--that's real New Orleans street jazz.
Port o Call on Esplanade
Mona Lisa on Royal--get the seafood pizza, all white
Mother's on Poydras
Joey K's on Magazine in the Garden District
Magazine Street, period.
Saturn Bar on St. Claude
House of Blues--look for local acts like the Meters
But honestly, despite the trashy, touristy shops in the Quarter, you either can feel New Orleans or you can't. There is a mystique to the city that not everyone is sensitive to. It's not a place you go to for high culture like Manhattan. You come here to feel that strange, ineffable quality of spirit New Orleans has wherever you are, whatever neighborhood, be it the Quarter or Treme or Mid-City. If you can't feel New Orleans, you simply can't, and it won't matter much where you go. It's like being born tone deaf. I feel really sorry for you; you have no idea the joy you are missing. It might help if you read up on the history of the place, but...all I know is that I felt it the minute I arrived and I knew this was where I wanted to live my life.
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