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Old 02-03-2009, 09:18 AM
 
229 posts, read 672,756 times
Reputation: 45

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Quote:
Originally Posted by VEIK View Post
venting is required for electrical models?

I dont have gas.
Not for electric models, but you'll need extra piping and power installed.
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:19 AM
 
106 posts, read 433,450 times
Reputation: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by HEATHER72 View Post
24 year old house could explain it.
HEAVILY renovated. as i mentioned in my original post, ALL windows and doors are brand new (months old), double layered, argon gas filled, all appliances brand new, energy efficient, heat pump new, water heater new, thermostat new, flooring new, etc.
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:51 AM
 
Location: -
488 posts, read 1,583,690 times
Reputation: 103
its just nature of houses in this area, they way they are built.
I wonder what is the typical R value for homes in our area.
Probably like R12

My house is 23 years old. Still have original windows on it, and storm windows =)
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:04 PM
 
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
738 posts, read 3,562,473 times
Reputation: 208
Your bill is a little high but not THAT bad.

Going from a condo to a house is a HUGE difference because usually in a condo you only have 1 or 2 exposed walls meaning that heat only excapes from 1 or 2 walls and not 4 walls plus a roof.

Same thing for the person who posted about their townhome... You don't have as many exterior walls to lose heat.

Anyways, to the origional poster, have you been in the attic yet? Maybe you need more insulation up there. Also, you mentioned that you've been useing the fireplace... when you're not useing it, are you making sure the flew is closed?

When we first moved into our house, we had similar electric bills. Since then we have doubled up on the window coverings, and it has made a pretty big difference. In addition to blinds, try adding curtains as well. (the thicker the better)

Also, never adjust the heat more than 2 degrees at a time, otherwise the emergency heat will turn on.

Another thing to keep in mind is that electric heatpumps aren't worth a thing under 35 degrees. Once the outside temperature gets to around freezing, it can no longer pull heat from the air, and the emergency heat will turn on to heat your house. On days when I know it's going to get below freezing, I'll crank up the heat to maybe 72 degrees, then drop it to like 64 degrees when we go to bed. I've found that it's actually more efficient to do that, than to let the emergency heat run all night.

I hope some of this helps. I was actually able to get our electric coop to average out our bill over the year, so we pay the same amount each month, based on the previous year's average. Unfortunately, we had to wait a year for that to work.

For comparison, we usually use over 2500 - 3200 kw in Jan/Feb, but in May/October we only use about 550-600 kw... so that shows you the difference our heat pump makes.
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:35 PM
 
4,711 posts, read 10,871,991 times
Reputation: 3773
Turn off the grow lights...<wink>
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:15 PM
 
106 posts, read 433,450 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car54 View Post
Turn off the grow lights...<wink>

SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!


lol
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:18 PM
 
Location: -
488 posts, read 1,583,690 times
Reputation: 103
you don't really need to turn those off until neighbors complain about the glow around your house.
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:36 AM
 
Location: Burke, VA
269 posts, read 899,095 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VEIK View Post
Another amazing source of energy waste - water heaters.
Sitting there all day, keeping the temperature at whatever temp they are set to.

When my old one dies, I am getting an on demand unit.

We just bought a house in Burke and the old water heater is 17 y/o and needs replacement, SO, I have thoroughly researched the issue. PLEASE DO NOT BUY A TANKLESS WATER HEATER!!! It's all hype and isn't even energy-efficient. You will have major regrets if you shell out all that money to go tankless, and I just want to save you the headache of having many cold showers.

Read this: www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/tankless.html
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:47 AM
 
Location: -
488 posts, read 1,583,690 times
Reputation: 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skapov View Post
We just bought a house in Burke and the old water heater is 17 y/o and needs replacement, SO, I have thoroughly researched the issue. PLEASE DO NOT BUY A TANKLESS WATER HEATER!!! It's all hype and isn't even energy-efficient. You will have major regrets if you shell out all that money to go tankless, and I just want to save you the headache of having many cold showers.

Read this: www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/tankless.html

Honestly, I prefer to rely on actual experience of people I know, vs some website.
My parents had their tankless installed about 3 years ago and they are very satisfied with it.

But thank you anyways
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:11 AM
 
106 posts, read 433,450 times
Reputation: 44
thanks guys.

the WH is new so i won't be replacing it anytime soon......

what I wanted to ask though....is 'how hard would it be for a professional electrician to install a simple switch (like a light switch) somewhere in the laundry room on the main level, that would turn the water heater ON and OFF!!!! this way, i could switch it off with a click of a botton in the morning before going to work, and switch it back on when i come back...and in a couple of hours, i'll have hot water...but i haven't wasted money maintaining the heated water ALL DAY for no reason!


thoughts?
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