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Old 01-11-2010, 08:46 PM
 
Location: Spiro, OK
6 posts, read 16,842 times
Reputation: 31

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Hello, all! I am new here. I'm going to start with a longwinded post.

A native of eastern Oklahoma myself, I saw a photography book by Michael Hardeman where I work about two years ago and couldn't believe I'd lived here all my life and knew practically nothing about the great diversity of beauty that is in this state. I remember being taught about Oklahoma's highest point in grade school and even then dreamt of going there, but sort of let it go as adolescence and trivialities set in.

I set my sights on western Oklahoma (because it's so different from the eastern side of the state) and had made plans with two friends to go to Black Mesa with a stop at the Glass Mountains.

My one friend had to bail out of the trip and since my other friend and I couldn't afford such a long journey (we live in Fort Smith, AR basically) we decided to go to Great Plains State Park in SW OK.

We went out to Clinton to see the Route 66 museum and headed south on 183 and when I saw those mountains on the southern horizon I knew this was where I wanted to live one day. There was a storm brewing and dark clouds loomed over the Wichitas but there was also sunlight and rainbows hitting the mountains and wheat fields. Hate to admit it but it made me misty eyed. I couldn't believe the awesomeness unfolding out in front of me.

Anyway, we never managed to actually find GPSP. Perhaps I didn't go far enough south on 183 but I'd heard later there might've been construction and a possible temporary removal of the entrance sign to the park? I stopped in Warren and they hadn't even heard of Great Plains State Park!

It was kind of upsetting because I'd had my heart set on going there. Perfect mix of mountain, plains, and water. It probably doesn't seem too special to a lot of people but I thought the pictures were beautiful. The funny thing is I'm pretty sure I was driving right by Tom Steed Lake, and man, it was sublime in that afternoon storm.

We headed out to Lake Altus and decided that wasn't for us (which is too bad because that place is also gorgeous as well, so gorgeous!) and finally said we were going to the wildlife refuge, which I had initially ignored as an option because I figured it was too popular and too clustered.

I am so glad we ended up there. But the drive from Altus (which seems like a nice town to live in) to the refuge was crazy. We get rain in eastern Oklahoma but this was a rain to stop all rain. Maybe I'm just not used to it, but I had to pull over twice because we were basically traveling with the storm and couldn't get ahead of it or stay far enough behind it. Felt like a monsoon!

Our campsite was incredibly secluded, the coyote howls at night were spectacular, and on our first night three buffaloes decided to check out our campsite, up close and personal. This was actually more frightening than anything else (never been camping like this!) but after two years of dull 9-5 work nonstop I felt like I was living again. Nothing like North America's largest mammal scaring the living crap out of you to get your zest for life back. They had to be right next to our tent. When they walked on the ground it sounded like the earth whimpered beneath their hooves. Their footsteps alone just sounded so... massive. Helluva way to be welcomed to the Wichitas.

The morning after we woke up to make breakfast only to find two Longhorns and their calf right there at our campsite! We weren't sure how to respond at first but felt that they were harmless if not spooked and we kept to our business and they to theirs. It was so amazing, cooking breakfast with Longhorns.

I truly fell in love with the Wichita Mountains and am going back again this year for vacation. I feel like I can't get enough done as far as seeing western OK is concerned because there are so many other places besides the Wichitas I wish to see, but the refuge was so awesome I can't help but go back!

Used to be I had this list of all the places in the U.S. I wanted to see, but turns out I'll be spending the rest of my life seeing my own home state because it's all practically right there, from sand dunes to salt flats, mesas and mountains to wide open plains.

Still want to see the Glass (or is it Gloss?) Mountains. They look really awesome on that "Oklahoma Film" at OklaVision.tv. But all of western Oklahoma in general, since I've seen so very little of it, I'd like to see.

I've become an impromptu ambassador for my home state, showing off photographs and photography books to friends and family, going, "Look! Trees and swamps here, red, glistening buttes and sweeping plains here! And it's all in Oklahoma!" And just like in Hardeman's book, the reaction I get most is, "I had no idea Oklahoma was so beautiful."

Neither did I. I love this state.

Also: anybody who's been to the Wichitas care to provide tips on seeing Elk? We went in late June and they were very elusive. We managed to see two or three as we drove around but it was close to sunset and they were very far away. And has anybody had a Meers burger? We never even made it to that side during our short stay (no top of Mt. Scott either). Next time I hope to see Blue Canyon Wind Farm, too, as I love wind turbines for some reason.

Shew! Sorry for the long post, but once I get going about Oklahoma I can't stop.
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:42 PM
 
Location: Mountain West
557 posts, read 1,666,174 times
Reputation: 613
I don't have a lot of time tonight to post a response, but I will tell you that I share your enthusiasm for the Wichitas. They get really hot in the summer and really cold in the winter, but spring and fall are glorious!! There is a quaint little burg called Medicine Park on the NE side of the refuge, I would love to retire there.

I have lived in Altus (twice, in fact) but I really don't care for it that much. Can't really tell you why, but it's just not for everyone.

If you haven't been to the visitors center at the refuge, you should check it out... it is one of the nicest ones around, quite beautiful ,actually!
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:46 AM
 
Location: Duncan, OK
2,919 posts, read 6,810,445 times
Reputation: 3140
Quote:
Originally Posted by muswellhillbilly View Post
Hello, all! I am new here. I'm going to start with a longwinded post.

Shew! Sorry for the long post, but once I get going about Oklahoma I can't stop.
No worries! It's always nice to hear from someone who shares an appreciation for MY side of the State. There really IS more to Oklahoma than OKC and Tulsa.

Welcome to the forum.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:44 PM
 
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
3,390 posts, read 4,932,927 times
Reputation: 2049
Occasionally, I've driven up to the Wichita Mountains and the SW Oklahoma area from Dallas where I live. I think that it's stunning and would like to retire there someday. I'm into rock climbing and the area is a haven for that. Spectacular views and sunsets.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:21 PM
 
Location: Lawton/ Medicine Park area
81 posts, read 291,993 times
Reputation: 137
Ok, here ya go... Elk are alive and well in the Wichita Mountains.

Right now, there is a herd (is that what they call them) that are staying on Ft. Sill till early spring.

It is a real treat for those driving on I-44 because they are camping out by the highway. Best time to see them is in the Evening around 5pm.

In the Spring you do have to be patient to see them. I have been lucky to see some in the morning while fishing in one of the many lakes that are in the Refuge.

Next trip this way, I live just north of Lawton, and see what it looks like around here. I have a view the moutains from my backyard.

Meers Burgers are great and they have a working Seismograph in the store there. Not alot of people realize that the Meers fault is still active.

Medicine Park offers several different places to eat as well as some cool history about the small community.

You have to go on top of Mt. Scott. Awesome view of the Wind Farm.

I can rant about all types of stuff around here but I would rather answer questions one might have.
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Old 01-15-2010, 02:32 PM
 
Location: Spiro, OK
6 posts, read 16,842 times
Reputation: 31
Is keeping elk at Ft. Sill something that is done often? I think I remember reading somewhere on the internet about people driving up I-44 and seeing all the elk. We didn't get to do any fishing last time, something we intend to remedy this year. Hopefully we'll have some of your luck!

I read at the Oklahoma Geological Survey website that there are earthquakes in Oklahoma on a daily basis, just too small to really be felt by anyone. I didn't know there was a fault there, though.

When we go back this year we plan to take OK SH-9 all the way to Mountain View and go in the back way, as it were. It's a straight shot from my hometown. Makes me feel a little more connected.

Medicine Park was somewhere else we didn't get to go, which is kind of funny because we were carrying milk jugs with water in them wherever we went to pour on us and keep cool. Little did we know there was a swimming hole nearby. Is that swimming area part of Lake Lawtonka or is it something else? If it isn't, can you swim in Lake Lawtonka?

How bad are rattlesnakes in the spring? I've heard like most snakes they don't attack unless provoked. It's coming up on one and surprising the both of us that I'm worried about. There were dead ones all over the side of 183 when we went last year. Different kind of roadkill than back home!

Another cool thing that I didn't expect at the Wichitas, driving through the refuge around sunset all the tarantulas came out for the evening. I had to keep swerving to make sure I didn't run any over. Seemed like they were everywhere. I didn't even know tarantulas were out there. Apparently they share the mountains' namesake, too.
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Old 01-15-2010, 06:53 PM
 
Location: Mountain West
557 posts, read 1,666,174 times
Reputation: 613
Quote:
Originally Posted by muswellhillbilly View Post
How bad are rattlesnakes in the spring?
I've seen both rattlers and copperheads on the refuge. My wife just about got nailed by a good sized rattler a few years ago, it was lying in a trail under an overhanging bush and she saw it at the last minute.

I also understand there is a growing number of wild boars running around there. Haven't been there in about 5 years so I can't tell you for sure, but supposedly they can get a little nasty, too.

On a side note, there is a popular rattlesnake roundup every April in Mangum, which is about an hour west of the refuge. Well worth going to, at least it used to be.
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:20 AM
 
Location: Duncan, OK
2,919 posts, read 6,810,445 times
Reputation: 3140
Well....If the sun will manage to break through these clouds, we are planning to drive over that way today or tomorrow. Need to get out of the house, and this thread needs pics!
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:58 PM
 
Location: Lawton/ Medicine Park area
81 posts, read 291,993 times
Reputation: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by muswellhillbilly View Post
Is keeping elk at Ft. Sill something that is done often? I think I remember reading somewhere on the internet about people driving up I-44 and seeing all the elk. .
The Elk are able to roam over Ft. Sill because the boundary of the Refuge connects with Ft. Sill. So the Elk are able to go back and forth during the seasons.


Quote:
Originally Posted by muswellhillbilly View Post
Little did we know there was a swimming hole nearby. Is that swimming area part of Lake Lawtonka or is it something else? If it isn't, can you swim in Lake Lawtonka?
Medicine Park has a swimming hole, but they charge $1-$2 per person to swim in it. Suppose to help keep the place clean and allows them to make updates to different parts of the area.

Lake Lawtonka does have a public swimming area. I think they have a $5 a car load fee to use it. Not bad since you can bring lunch and more.
There is also areas that you can camp at around the lake for a small fee. It is really worth it to do that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by muswellhillbilly View Post
How bad are rattlesnakes in the spring? I've heard like most snakes they don't attack unless provoked. It's coming up on one and surprising the both of us that I'm worried about. There were dead ones all over the side of 183 when we went last year. Different kind of roadkill than back home!
Rattlesnakes are not that bad, I personally have never seen one and I do alot of hiking/ rock climbing around the mountains. My thought on them is leave them alone, they leave you alone...

Apace Ok does have a rattle snake festival around the second week in April.

Mangum Rattlesnake festival is also at the end of April
45th Mangum Rattlesnake Derby
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:50 AM
 
1 posts, read 3,236 times
Reputation: 13
Thanks for checking out the book, musellhillbilly!
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