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Old 07-19-2011, 03:54 PM
 
758 posts, read 2,364,611 times
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"Of course, every person has a sob story to tell and tries to rationalize why what they do is alright. What breaks my heart is to see all the beautiful forests and "old-quaint towns" in Oregon be pummeled to put up more wealthy homes, subdivisions and giant marketplaces. I was watching them tear apart the farming communities outside of Beaverton to build more mansions and giant shopping centers that cater to the upper-class. Quite a heartbreaking, but common site these days. Just like in California."

Which is basically what happened in Bend, where the land-use laws were NOT rigorously enforced.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the saying:

"Don't Californicate Oregon."

So... next mission for the OP is, repeat your post in the Washington and Idaho forums, and see what the answers are there. Should be entertaining, in any event.
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:18 PM
 
200 posts, read 445,569 times
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Hi Pres, as a 2nd generation (and since relocated) oregonian, I'd be happy to give you the scoop on the state

First off, to explain some of the prevailing attitudes. Oregon economy used to be based on two things: Fishing and Timber. The timber pretty much dried up in the 70s and Oregon trees are slow growing, so the boom has busted decades ago and the fishing isn't much to brag on anymore. Since then, in many parts of the state people have really struggled to make ends meet and prosper, in fact to this day there are only very small pockets in the state that has a stable growing economy.

To most of california, affluence has come cheap up till now. Oregonians have been watching californians come up and build ginormous houses, build resorts, change the politics, and I think it stings the pride to see people who are not oregonian change things so much.
When california money came in, so did the big chains. Land prices sky rocketed, (putting much out of the price range for lifelong citizens) and the big box stores have put out the local businesses.

Therine lies the problem in your request for a "quaint" town. Only touristy boardwalk towns make it anymore for the most part because if the big chain (cheap) shopping is only 30 mins-an hour away locals WILL NOT pay higher prices to support the small business any more. Neither can businesses survive waiting for "tourist season".

If you want a real down town, you're going to have to look for "serious shopping" 2 hrs+, and no walmart, or live in a tourist trap town with souvenir shops and salt water taffy stores that gets enough traffic from Portland.
But if you're just looking for a cute looking downtown with old buildings, a chamber of commerce a bank and some churches, you've got a lot more options. I would not readily volunteer that you came from California when you first meet people. They will react much like you have seen here. All cali transplants say they want an "easy going pace" when really they want cheaper houses, prettier country and no sales tax. I'm afraid no Oregonian will believe you until they get to know you!

Oregon is unique in that it has MAJORLY different climates and areas.

Bend, which you have heard so much about is high desert, the few trees there are big pines and scrubby juniper. It definitely has a "little california" feel to it with lots of chain stores, ostentatious houses, and lots of leisure activities and resorts. There is a bit of fishing, lots of hiking, good weather, some snow and some rain. It's also fairly financially stable, and fairly horsey and out doorsy. It is very close to Sisters which is known as a touristy small town with a famous quilt shop, lots of camp grounds and dude ranches, town festivals and tall pines. You could get away with living in either one and enjoy the benefits of the other. If you like that sort of thing it is really pretty country with lots of cool sites like the lava fields, ski resorts and the cascade locks. Because most of the trees are pines, you won't get the lovely "fall colors" much.

If wine country and rolling hills is more your thing, you may want to check out Salem and Silverton. Salem has many advantages of big box shopping (not ALL chains, but many), a fairly thriving downtown, local AND chain restaurants and businesses, and has the lovely state capitol building. I lived there for 4 years and loved everything but the politics (no judgement I hope, but I'm not a democrat, and I was tired of my vote being moot ) The people were nice, the traffic was a breeze, the rural country was lovely, and there were lots of things to do. The beaches are an hour, Portland is an hour, the high dessert is less than 2 hours, and they love their parks! (If you visit be sure to check out Bush park in downtown, and Willamette Missions state park in Brooks just north on the I-5, and silver falls state park) The weather is SO mild. Summer frequently hits the mid 90s and people only complain their pants off because no one has air conditioning. The humidity isn't that bad either. We had a couple snow storms and 2 big ice storms. My sister came up to visit us for 3 months during the summer once and bemoaned the fact it never rained ONCE during her visit when she was so excited for rain. The Salem economy is pretty stable because Portland is so close, and all the government offices are there. Prices are probably quite modest compared to what you are used to. Silverton (as mentioned) is nearby and you could live in either one while enjoying the other, just as in Bend/Sisters. It's less horsey/camping/fishing-outdoorsy, and more cycling and picnicing type of outdoorsy.

If a hip and artsy city is your thing, look no further than Portland. While it is often "gloomy", most residents don't care. They're too busy enjoying the rain from inside their favorite coffee shop or used book store. They have a lovely down town despite being a large city, and I frequently compare it to a smaller NYC. When visiting you might want to hang on to mace or a tazer though... just in case. They do try to keep the city clean, but there's plenty of bad neighborhoods and opportunistic criminals and quite a few down and out homeless. The homeless do fall on the cleaner side, but you will still have to step over them if you're out on the town late in the evening and they've gone to bed in their sleeping bags. They're mostly harmless, and I've got nothing against people who choose the "gypsy" way of life, but it can be a little embarrassing to accidentally step on someone trying to get some shut eye. Portland has jobs, the best regional health care, lots of industry, culture and diversity. Prices are also higher. It is on the border of Washington state (divided by the columbia river) and you can live on whichever side is more advantageous and still reap the benefits of Portland. There are TONS of nice seaside touristy towns within short driving distance.

Beach towns can be really nice, although I dont recommend them because the economy is so tourism based (and unstable) but if you like scenic rocky beaches, wind and storm watching, put Lincoln City and Gold Beach on your potential list. They are the most livable towns in my estimation. Lincoln City if you want Northern wild beaches, Gold Beach if you favor the south-- warmer beaches, more "california-ish", they've been used to california money and tourism for much longer than most areas.

Now, if you liked a lot of the ideas behind Bend, but you're not so hyped on High desert and conifers? You should check out Ashland, Medford and surrounding small towns like Eagle Point. Ashland is the cutesy college town famous for it's Shakespeare festival, and Medford is more the unifying central shopping of the area. It's pretty stable economically. Its just beyond the feet of the western side of the southern cascade locks passage (whereas Bend is the exact opposite, east side of the northern route.) Medford area is also outdoorsy with white water rafting on the rogue river, lots of horsey people, fishing, and gorgeous scenery. Medford is green and rolling hills and woods for the first half of spring and early summer, and as it drys out the hills become more like a savannah. Medford was the last I checked a lot less expensive than Bend, autumn is glorious, and has great dry summers, and a lot of sun. In your shoes, I would look there first. Like Gold Beach, medford and Ashland are considered southern oregon, and there are a lot more cali transplants. If the locals haven't made peace with them yet, at least you'll have company.

So there you have it, this oregonian's suggestion of the best of the best. Unfortunatly DH and I have a plan that includes a small organic farm, and oregon land is just too spendy and the farmers markets are too iffy to count on, so we are next heading to Missouri. Best of luck in your move, and I hope this post helps my karma enough for someone to leave a post as insightful as this one in my similar thread on the Missouri board!
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:25 PM
 
745 posts, read 1,277,947 times
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Preshiesgirl, Oregon has no Mayberry. Every charming downtown and quaint old street is populated by grumpy mossbacks who occupy their time trying to figure out why they are so unhappy despite living in such a charming and beautiful place. The best they've come up with is to blame Californians. So your car, your house, your children and your smile will be in every local's sights and after a few months you'll struggle to understand why you can't find a friend who is actually from there even long after you've changed your license plates (which you should do immediately).

If that doesn't break the spell, then having to drive an hour to get to the only activity your kids enjoy, Chuck E Cheese, will (true story from my family in OR). And the novelty of having people who actually speak English serving your fast food wears off when you realize there are big populations of illegal aliens employed by Oregonians too.

Either way, you will end up packing it all back to the Golden State you thought you despised. Its sunshine and beaches will welcome you with open arms as will its myriad activities that are all less than an hour's drive. You'll realize how much you took for granted. You'll be pleasantly surprised that in general the crazy mix of people in CA are happier and friendlier and truly enjoying life, unlike the grumpy bumps in Oregon whose day you brightened by leaving their precious state.

You may, however, find yourself missing having your gas pumped for you.
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:34 PM
 
200 posts, read 445,569 times
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It's true, I still miss full service gas
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:49 PM
 
Location: Salem, OR
15,513 posts, read 40,248,020 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwumpus View Post
If that doesn't break the spell, then having to drive an hour to get to the only activity your kids enjoy, Chuck E Cheese, will (true story from my family in OR).
If this is the case, then this is a sad statement about their ability to find entertainment in nature. There are so many amazing outdoor things to do in Oregon. My kids, ages 9 and 11, have NEVER been to Chuck E Cheese. Egads...why would I take them there when we can go hiking at Silverfalls, or hit the swimming hole at North Fork park, go fishing at Detroit Lake, on and on. Food that makes you fat and tastes horrible? I'll pass on taking my kids to that.

BUT this does point to one major bone of contention in Oregon and that is growth. Oregon isn't urban. Even Portland is laid back compared to other metros. I find that some people from other states love their chain stores. Oregon, generally detests chain stores, and that is a source of ongoing argument with local government officials. The battle over changing the zoning to allow a Wal-mart in Keizer was huge. Relocaters are often disappointed in Oregon and our "backward" ways. Our gorgeous nature comes with a price. They often expect to get the beauty of Oregon with the culture of their state. When that doesn't happen, I do agree that they pack up their bags and move away.

Which is something you need to consider. If you decide to move up here and live in an apartment/rent a house for two years, do so before you build. I can't tell you how many people I have met that want "small town life" but then when they live small town life complain that it is boring and they are tired of seeing the same people all the time. Selling a 5,000 sq foot house in any small town in Oregon could take a few years. I think our inventory in Salem (which is 150,000 people) for homes like that is about 5 years.
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:50 PM
 
Location: Salem, OR
15,513 posts, read 40,248,020 times
Reputation: 17383
Quote:
Originally Posted by dusky_beauty View Post
It's true, I still miss full service gas

I've lived here for 20 years and was in heaven when I could pump my own gas on the way back from the coast at the casino. I hate waiting for the attendants.
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:16 PM
 
200 posts, read 445,569 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverfall View Post
I've lived here for 20 years and was in heaven when I could pump my own gas on the way back from the coast at the casino. I hate waiting for the attendants.

Well, not waiting is novel for you. When you move to Phoenix and you have to get out in 115 degrees, fill it, go inside to wait in line to pay and come back to a hot car you really appreciate full service at the pump
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:48 PM
 
Location: Salem, OR
15,513 posts, read 40,248,020 times
Reputation: 17383
Quote:
Originally Posted by dusky_beauty View Post
Well, not waiting is novel for you. When you move to Phoenix and you have to get out in 115 degrees, fill it, go inside to wait in line to pay and come back to a hot car you really appreciate full service at the pump

You don't use a credit card and pay at the pump? I used to pump my gas in sub zero in Illinois. Still want to pump it myself. I'd be okay if they have full and self serve so we both could be happy
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:57 PM
 
Location: Cascade Lakes Highway / Kapalua
456 posts, read 1,004,026 times
Reputation: 184
I am happy to let someone else deal with the pump and credit card. Never had to wait more then a few minutes.
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:54 PM
 
Location: Between Seattle and Portland
1,266 posts, read 3,215,642 times
Reputation: 1525
OP, I've been a resident of several different small "quaint" towns in both Oregon and Washington since before Californians started arriving in droves (been in the Pacific Northwest since 1959) and -- IMHO -- you will be ignoring reality if you try to relocate here with your wish list for your house and "dream town."

I'm not saying you can't make it work with determination and a large dose of humility, but you face an uphill battle with people like me who, sadly, would judge you right away by the monstrous carbon footprint of your mega-mansion.

Read this older essay by a teacher to get an eye-opening understanding of how deep-seated the resentment can be:

Who Belongs in the Pacific Northwest?

Excerpt:

I have been doing this survey for about ten years, and over that time students' attitudes toward "California" and "Californians" have been fairly consistent. Each year when students are asked to list phrases that come to mind when they hear the word "California" or "Californian," they regularly mention the following: "bad drivers," "pollution," "overcrowded," "busy" or "fast-paced," "wealthy" and "powerful," "crime," "in love with their cars," and various combinations of "pushy," "vain," "self-centered," "loud," "rude," "disrespectful," "superficial," "immoral," "uptight," "plastic," "artificial," and "mindless." A number of respondents have claimed that Californians are "taking over" the Pacific Northwest, or that too many are "coming to Washington." In 1997 one student spoke for many when she or he wrote, "Californians: 1) are invading our beautiful area; 2) as [former Oregon governor] Tom McCall said, 'Come and visit but go home'; 3) Californians are crazy drivers who cause accidents; 4) they are driving up the housing prices; and 5) as my mother says, 'I hate Californians.'"

It is important to realize that newcomers in the Northwest from California have clearly gotten the message. One professional man in Seattle claimed in 1991 that "The hostility toward Californians is worse than race prejudice in the South. It's just open season for contempt of Californians." A 16-year-old whose family had moved from California to Idaho complained in 1996 of the "California bashing" she received in high-school, where even the teachers—who were supposed to set an example—put down newcomers from the Golden State. She went on to list "unfair treatment and blatant prejudice" as important reasons why students who had come from California were dropping out of school.

Or, consider the findings of Californian sociologist Glenn T. Tsunokai. In the mid-1990s he took a standard survey designed to measure prejudice against African Americans, homosexuals, and other minorities, and inserted the word "Californians" for "blacks" or "gays." He then mailed 600 surveys out to Oregonians, and received 319 replies. Tsunokai found what could be described as a substantial amount of prejudice. A large majority of Oregonians expected that Californians would "create 'problems'" in their communities by moving there. Oregonians also tended to describe Californians with the same kind of adjectives that students in my courses have used—"shallow," "ruthless," "competitive." (It is worth noting that Washingtonians were more highly regarded. Sixty-eight percent of Oregonians believed that Californians would bring about negative changes in their communities by moving there; only twenty-four percent of the respondents said the same thing about Washingtonians.) When interviewed for a newspaper story, Tsunokai said that he was not so afraid of Oregonians that he would not move there. However, he did think he would need to take a few precautions: "I would change my license plates real fast, and not wear any of those kinds of shirts that identify you as being from California."

http://www.washington.edu/uwired/out...son%201/1.html

Last edited by stonecypher5413; 07-19-2011 at 11:02 PM.. Reason: Added Link
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