Oregon Road Trip

[haggardhouseelf]

Oh wow... I just read your post regarding your tentative driving itinerary. That is going to be quite a drive. Just from Seattle to Bend is going to take you an entire day. Bend to Klammath Falls/Ashland maybe half a day... 5 or 6 hours...

One thing I have learned since moving to the PNW - don't trust the times the GPS navigational systems give you. If it says it will take you two hours to get from point a to point b, plan on three hours or more. You also have to figure in stops for lunch or refueling or whatever. Where I'm from (Texas) roads are more straight and flat and those sorts of things are usually more right on... but out here you are contending with RV'ers, Mountain Passes, curvy one or two lane hwy's, hills, valleys, long stretches of hwy without any gas stations in-between, amazing vista's and views which you are going to want to stop at and gawk a little ... etc. Not to mention July... everybody is out on the roads.

I really don't think just driving through a place is going to give you a good idea as far as whether or not you're going to want to spend the rest of your life there or retire there. It's too bad you cannot spend more time. Oregon cannot really be experienced from the car. You have to get out and run amuck.

[janb]

Originally Posted by planning4someday

And, where to eat? What are the best places to eat along the way?

What type of food? I like Mary McCrank's Restaurant (Chehalis, WA)

I'm tentatively mapping out the route:

Seattle to Bend, but by way of the Gorge - so to Portland, east to the Dalles, and then south to Bend.
IN WA, drop by the Mt St Helens visitor center 5 min east of Castle Rock exit - it's great
ON I-84, gas up at Troutdale exit, if time... take Gorge Scenic Hwy from Corbett to Bonneville Dam (~ 1.2 hr vs 35 min on freeway) - if not... at least plan a stop at Multnomah Falls (I-84 exit ~ 5 min walk). Also the gardens and displays at Bonneville Fish Hatchery are nice + dam visitor Center (2 min off I-84)

Char Burger in Cascade Locks for lunch, tho we often will just grab some cheese and crackers at Safeway / Fred Meyer's grocery and have a picnic at Bonneville Fish Hatchery

Consider taking Hwy 35 from Hood River to Bend, (prettier, faster) unless you must see The Dalles... if so... consider a stop at Oregon Trail visitor's center, just before The Dalles .

From Bend, through Klamath Falls, probably staying in Ashland.
Try to take the time to cruise through Crater Lake, It really is worth the trip, especially in July.

From Ashland, through Medford and Grants Pass, to Brookings - probably staying in or near Brookings.

And, the coast - up from Brookings - through Gold Beach, Bandon, Coos Bay, Newport - to somewhere in the Lincoln City area, where we'll probably stay the night. Anyone know anything about Otter Rock? nice area

From there, back to Seattle, clinging to the coast as long as we can. That will be slow and of questionable value, WA coast is not very attractive, the area between Lincoln City and Manzanita is not too close to the coast (excluding Rockaway), also from Cannon Beach to Astoria is minimal coast exposure

But with this route, I'm kind of blowing off everything down I-99 - Salem, Eugene, etc. Is that a huge mistake?
likely a mistake for your objectives...(Though my favorite spot on the OR coast is north of there -Hug Point / Arch Cape) you will see great stuff coming from the south, so... I would recommend going to Salem from Lincoln City, then hit a few nice spots for potential retirement and a 'taste of the valley', and don't miss Dallas or Aurora, and possibly Canby and Silverton - then you can see some "portland" too, International Rose Gardens is a "must See' in July, catch a free concert in the evening there

Portland Parks & Recreation :: Washington Park - International Rose Test Garden

What am I missing, where else should be a must see? Where to eat along the way?

Any and all comments and suggestions welcome.

Don't let a 'non-social' husband slow your progress of getting to know folks and the area. You can do it yourself while in checkout lines, or while he is finishing up dessert . Also go in and talk to folks at gas stops, pick up local newspapers and flyers for your "clubs" / interests, and CALL them when your husband is sleeping or when you get home. Offer to do the transactions at motels and diners / gas stops... He will appreciate the break, and you the info . Ask to stop at Chamber of Commerce or Visitor's Center if you find a nice spot... run in get info and run out, then call them after you digest the info.

I can't recommend guest homes enough, and your DH might need to 'stretch'... There is a group called "evergreen club". I would go nuts doing motels, as I would just as soon sleep in the car, but usually we drive overnight anyway... Napping during the day in a nice shady park. . You might want to consider driving at night with your tight schedule, or at least leave early and stay late... remember the nights are Really nice and long here during July, daylight 5AM till 10 pm !!

[Nell Plotts]

Take a look at your planned route to see if you can work in a stop at Timberline Lodge (south face Mt. Hood), for a meal at least.

[BEKM3]

Grants Pass, Rogue Valley ..

[planning4someday]

Thanks again, everyone for the suggestions.

Still hammering things out, and still taking suggestions :-)

[planning4someday]

We have returned!

My impressions?

Bend - I could live there. Seems to have all the amenities. The lack of a great water view is holding us back though. The thought of golf 8 months or so a year and skiing an hour away the other 4 is immensely tempting though.

Klamath Falls - The lake itself is beautiful. The town itself, not so much. No offense to residents, but I just didn't get a good vibe from the town. And the elderly gentleman next to us at the gas station who couldn't pay for his gas (expired and declined cards) just seemed to add to an overall depressing atmosphere.

Visited Crater Lake, just for the view, and that was worth the trip.

Ashland, Medford, Grants Pass - all just a drive-by, but Grants Pass seemed a reasonably attractive place.

Brookings - Rain or no rain, I could live there. Ocean view property pretty reasonable. Seemed to be a clean, well-kept up town. Pretty much all of the restaurant and retail employees we came in contact with were very friendly and very cheerful. It was cool.

Up the coast between Brookings and Lincoln City, we noticed a definite turn in the weather, or I let the whole "banana belt" thing about Brookings get into my head affecting my perceptions. The scenery on the drive to Lincoln City along 101 was just stunning. The various coastal towns ... some seemed very inviting, some depressed and downtrodden. All the same, I'm glad we chose that route - lots of charm along the way. But once out of the car... brrr. Too cold for me for July. Pretty much what I expected, but hey, better than the weather in the 100's at home.

As a whole, I'd be very surprised if we don't end up in Oregon somewhere. Sorry, one more out of stater coming in to ruin your paradise... Unless we end up in the far reaches of northern California, and then I'll just spend my money in Oregon, free of sales tax :-)

I can see why the natives love the state so, for the most part.

[janb]

Glad you survived the trip, and your positive impressions of Bend and Brookings are correct, They are a couple nice spots. (Bend not so much for those who have witnessed its change, but for newcomers, you get what you see, and it is probably easier to digest. Still a very nice place.) Brookings has changed, but they are probably happy to see some business, it was pretty remote and 'un-found' for many years. It could still be an issue for commute costs to specialty shopping, medical, or an airport, but it seemed adequately equipped when I passed through last month.

The climate is vastly different from Brookings to Lincoln City. You will be wearing your rubber boots and raincoat to enjoy a long golf season anywhere north of Coos Bay.

[seashelly]

Good to hear you had a safe trip and enjoyed your visit.
No rain here in July but what did you think about our winds here along the Coast?

[planning4someday]

The Fred Meyer's in Brookings seemed to have a decent grocery selection. We didn't hit the upstairs for clothing selections, but really, what is that going to matter? I figure to live in jeans and t-shirts once retired, enjoying the outdoors and hopefully a dog or two. Why would I want expensive clothes to get damaged having fun?

You guys have it good for the pricing of blueberries, that's for sure. They're at least triple the price here. Could account for the blueberry pancakes we had in Brookings that were more blueberry than pancake

The winds were pretty stiff along the coast. We cruised through the Bandon Dunes golf area, and I personally wouldn't want to golf in that weather.

I can see how the "new" Bend could annoy the long-time locals. The Old Mill (I think) area, along the river, where everything is all new with the expensive shops? It's nice enough, but struck me as phony and snobby, and I get enough of that at home. And you can keep the roundabouts. I hate those things. We have some in a different part of town, an area I'm thankful I rarely get to. Bend is in a beautiful valley though, green enough for this desert rat.

The Pacific coast though - it has a pull on us like no other part of the country. The hitch is finding someplace affordable with an ocean view, with a hospitable climate. Winters in Brookings would be tough, but the weather when we pulled into town was wonderful - warm enough to be summer-y, but totally comfortable.

We'll be back for further investigation, I think, to check out more seasonal weather.