Hoosiers looking to plant roots in...Oregon??? (Portland, Medford: appointed, real estate)

[DerbyFever]

We recently visited the Portland/Gorge area and fell in love! We've been considering relocating for some time due to our son's severe allergies in the midwest (just outside Louisville, current allergy capital) and this trip has been a catalyst. We love the green & amazing scenery around Portland but aren't sure we could live with the rain & excessive dreary days.

We are now considering either Ashland/Jacksonville area or Bend/Sisters area. We'd planned to visit both areas, but our recent trip ended abruptly, hence I'm back in Indiana doing more homework...We'd appreciate any thoughts/ideas on either of these areas. I'm going to provide our "wish list" with the qualification that we realize there is no utopia and some concessions will need to be made...however, it's a starting point:
1.) Low allergies
2.) Good schools
3.) Family/kid-friendly place (low crime, safe, etc.)
4.) Weather (want change of seasons with no prolonged extremes...I hate IN's scorching hot summers with high humidity, husband doesn't want weeks of snow on ground)
5.) Landscape/Scenery (would like lush green with pretty mountain views...don't like extreme flat, barren/brown, or desert/canyon look)
6.) Access to water for powerboating (within hour, water warm enough in summer for skiing, decent size body of water)

Based on what I've heard/read, it seems either place could fit our "wish list" but there are pro's and con's to each place. I'm hoping for feedback to tell me whether we're on the right track and/or whether we're overlooking some points (good or bad)...Both places assuredly have less allergies than Louisville and websurfing seems to support both having good schools & low crime, so I think we're OK on the first 3 points.

As for the other points on the wish list...Pro's of Ashland/Jville would be the mild weather but possible con is I'm wondering how barren/"brown" this area gets? Pro's of Bend/Sisters would be what sounds like amazing scenery and lots of surrounding lakes but possible cons are whether the weather gets too cold (esp. at night in summer, as well as water being too cold for watersports), whether this area is too touristy (?), and I'm also left wondering about scenery...some things I read about Bend area sound like there's a lot of green while others emphasize the "desert" aspect, so unclear on this. Thanks to all for any input/suggestions!

[Silverfall]

Bend is high desert so it is arid out there. It is not lush like the Gorge is, but I still think it is green. It is just mixed in that you have the green from the Ponderosa Pines mixed with the reds and oranges from the clay.

I personally couldn't live in Bend because the air is to dry for me, but I love visiting there. I think Sisters is less arid, but unless you have a lot of money, you may have to rule Sisters out. It's not cheap there.

In the summer it does get hot, but it's dry heat not even close to the humidity of the midwest (I'm originally from Illinois). Central Oregon does get forest fires so smoke does get trapped there.

I think most Oregon lakes are on the colder side. Not that you can't swim in them, but I remember midwest lakes being a lot warmer than out there. I think part of that is that our lakes are filled from the mountain water which is ice cold.

Here is a picture I took of Smith Rock State Park in August. It is not lush by Oregon standards but still gorgeous.


Edit: I don't know why I have such problems posting photos on this forum. It's not working again for me...

[malachai23]

Hi future Oregon resident!

First off - Bend and Sisters are two TOTALLY different cities in look, feel, elevation, population, architecture, pretty much everything. Sisters is touristy - it basically lives off tourism. Bend is self-sustaining. Also, Ashland and Jacksonville are two TOTALLY different cities. So really, you are looking at four different areas, rather than two. Ashland and Jacksonville are also both touristy, by the way.

Regarding watersports - Bend would be your choice, hands down. Lake Billy Chinook, Deschutes river, John Day river nearby - lots of water. And yes, it is COLD water - I'm sure it's not what you are used to. But that doesn't stop Oregonians. If you find it too cold to do "your thing" you can always purchase a wet suit. Many people wear them from rafters to waterskiers to surfers.

I wouldn't say that Bend gets extreme weather. A normal winter there is really not very cold. But yes, nights can get chilly - even in the summer.

I'm not sure about the allergy situation in any of those cities - sorry. I never had any allergy issues until I moved out here to SW Ohio a few years back. Imagine that!! If you are the allergy capitol, we must be #2. LOL

[DerbyFever]

Originally Posted by Silverfall

Bend is high desert so it is arid out there. It is not lush like the Gorge is, but I still think it is green.

Silverfall, would you say Bend is lush/green by Illinois standards?

Originally Posted by Silverfall

I personally couldn't live in Bend because the air is to dry for me, but I love visiting there.

I haven't been to many places with dry air, though did visit Denver recently & it was markedly dry. (We noticed through itchy skin & our noses were dry--I'm not sure how else you'd know the effects??) Are you able to compare Bend & Denver on the dry air factor?

Originally Posted by Silverfall

In the summer it does get hot, but it's dry heat not even close to the humidity of the midwest. I think most Oregon lakes are on the colder side. Not that you can't swim in them, but I remember midwest lakes being a lot warmer than out there. I think part of that is that our lakes are filled from the mountain water which is ice cold.

In the absence of humidity, are you able to do things in Bend during the summer in "typical" summer gear (such as in IL--shorts, T-shirt) or would it be too chilly? Are there any decent-size lakes for boating that aren't mountain-spring fed? I realize the water won't be as warm as the midwest but anything less than ice cold would be a plus.

[DerbyFever]

Originally Posted by malachai23

Hi future Oregon resident!

And that's precisely one of the reasons I fell in love with Oregon--the residents are so friendly & welcoming! (And they say hospitality is best in the Midwest--not even close )

Originally Posted by malachai23

First off - Bend and Sisters are two TOTALLY different cities in look, feel, elevation, population, architecture, pretty much everything. Sisters is touristy - it basically lives off tourism. Bend is self-sustaining.

I didn't realize Bend & Sisters were so glaring in their differences. Being a complete outsider, I made the erroneous assumption that Sisters would be LESS touristy, crowded, etc. (And we all know what you get when you assume...) Wow, that's good to know. That being said, Bend seems to have a lot more appeal except for the fact that the school city rankings in Sisters is much better than Bend...

Originally Posted by malachai23

Also, Ashland and Jacksonville are two TOTALLY different cities. So really, you are looking at four different areas, rather than two. Ashland and Jacksonville are also both touristy, by the way.

Again, making the ignorant assumption...both Ashland and Jacksonville look appealing though I leaned more toward Jville because, as with Bend & Sisters, Jville had the higher school rankings as opposed to Ashland.

Originally Posted by malachai23

Regarding watersports - Bend would be your choice, hands down. Lake Billy Chinook, Deschutes river, John Day river nearby - lots of water. And yes, it is COLD water - I'm sure it's not what you are used to. But that doesn't stop Oregonians. If you find it too cold to do "your thing" you can always purchase a wet suit. Many people wear them from rafters to waterskiers to surfers.

Same question I asked Silverfall--are there any places in OR with warmer (i.e. less than ice cold) water for boating? I'm not the boater in the family, it's my husband...and since the move is my idea & passion, well--you get the drift here.

Originally Posted by malachai23

I wouldn't say that Bend gets extreme weather. A normal winter there is really not very cold. But yes, nights can get chilly - even in the summer.

Music to my ears! Looks like the general temps. aren't all that different from Louisville, however, factoring out humidity I'm sure it will FEEL very different. I think a cooler night is cozy but the husband loves the heat, just not my thing. It gets so hot & humid in the Ohio Valley where we live that it's miserable to do anything outside, very uninspiring to enjoying the great outdoors...and that's before you even factor in this thing called allergies.

Originally Posted by malachai23

I'm not sure about the allergy situation in any of those cities - sorry. I never had any allergy issues until I moved out here to SW Ohio a few years back. Imagine that!! If you are the allergy capitol, we must be #2. LOL

I'm not surprised to hear you now have allergies, though sorry to hear it. I've known lots of people who have relocated to our Louisville area and never had allergies (that they knew of) only to suffer miserably while being here. A good friend moved here from northern Indiana and lived here 3 years, only to find he had horrible allergies here. He just moved to Cincinnati. Go figure. (There are lots of websites out there that provide general info. about allergies & worst places to live--if you want any info. on them let me know. I've been getting allergy shots for OVER 20 years!!

[malachai23]

Originally Posted by DerbyFever

And that's precisely one of the reasons I fell in love with Oregon--the residents are so friendly & welcoming! (And they say hospitality is best in the Midwest--not even close )

Oregonians are definitely very friendly and welcoming. I hope they welcome me back as warmly as an expat! haha!!

Originally Posted by DerbyFever

I didn't realize Bend & Sisters were so glaring in their differences. Being a complete outsider, I made the erroneous assumption that Sisters would be LESS touristy, crowded, etc. (And we all know what you get when you assume...) Wow, that's good to know. That being said, Bend seems to have a lot more appeal except for the fact that the school city rankings in Sisters is much better than Bend...

Sisters used to be a very quiet little mountain town but in recent years its quaint little downtown has been renovated and business is booming. It has an "Old West" theme, and there are a few blocks' worth of shops, galleries, restaurants, etc. Nearly all the businesses in town are independent (not chains). The main street area is right on the highway and it can actually get a bit congested. But Sisters is just so beautiful - historic, and literally situated within a forest, with mountains all around. I would live there in a heartbeat, despite the tourists. Sisters is on the pricey side (compared to Bend) and I'm assuming that is one of the reasons the school district is ranked better than Bend's. It is also a VERY small town - I'm sure they don't have all the problems and class size issues that a larger city like Bend might have. Now I personally have no knowledge of either school system - I'm just guessing here.

Originally Posted by DerbyFever

Again, making the ignorant assumption...both Ashland and Jacksonville look appealing though I leaned more toward Jville because, as with Bend & Sisters, Jville had the higher school rankings as opposed to Ashland.

I'm not too familiar with Jacksonville, although I've been there before to go antique shopping. I used to live in Ashland. So I'm a bit more familiar with it - although I haven't lived there for quite some time. I would imagine Ashland's schools rank pretty high as well as it is a town that is also on the pricey side.

Originally Posted by DerbyFever

Same question I asked Silverfall--are there any places in OR with warmer (i.e. less than ice cold) water for boating? I'm not the boater in the family, it's my husband...and since the move is my idea & passion, well--you get the drift here.

I am not aware of any warm bodies of water in Oregon other than the numerous hotsprings scattered about!! Oregon rivers and lakes are fed by mountain snow runoff. And think - there is YEAR ROUND skiing on Mt. Hood But really, you get used to the water temps. I used to swim in the lakes & rivers all the time.

As for the allergies - my situation will resolve itself just as soon as someone buys my house and I get back to Oregon! LOL

[malachai23]

Oh yah - and about the humidity - you are correct, there is none to speak of in Oregon. I'd venture to say Southern OR and Central/Eastern OR has little to none. I guess the NW corner of the state technically has a little bit, but I grew up there and seriously never noticed it. There is nowhere in the state of Oregon that you will feel the same level of humidity that we have here in Ohio & Kentucky. NOTHING like this!!! Bend has extremely dry air - and yes, it does make for a "colder cold". But it also makes summers lovely with absolutely no mugginess.

[Silverfall]

Originally Posted by DerbyFever

Silverfall, would you say Bend is lush/green by Illinois standards?

Yes compared to Illinois, Bend is green. Not lush, but green. There is no undergrowth like in the Gorge to give it that fully lush feeling because it is dryer out there. Plenty green I think. Especially compared to Illinois.

Originally Posted by DerbyFever

I haven't been to many places with dry air, though did visit Denver recently & it was markedly dry. (We noticed through itchy skin & our noses were dry--I'm not sure how else you'd know the effects??) Are you able to compare Bend & Denver on the dry air factor?

My sister-in-law lives in Frisco, CO which I think is slightly higher than Denver. I was really uncomfortable there and it was way dryer than Bend. I didn't have itchy skin in Bend, but definitely a dry nose. It was also a bit hot for me. I'm a cool weather gal so the valley weather is great for me.

Originally Posted by DerbyFever

In the absence of humidity, are you able to do things in Bend during the summer in "typical" summer gear (such as in IL--shorts, T-shirt) or would it be too chilly? Are there any decent-size lakes for boating that aren't mountain-spring fed? I realize the water won't be as warm as the midwest but anything less than ice cold would be a plus.

Bend is not chilly in the summer. It does cool off more at night than in the valley, but I wore capris and a t-shirt dining with my Bend friends. It doesn't get that cold.

Lake Billy Chinook is nearby for boating. I haven't swum in there so I'm not sure how cold it is. I doubt it is ice cold because it is a haven for house boating. I assume the water is swimmable, otherwise house boating would be really boring.

[Fiddlehead]

Hi DerbyFever,

Of the two regions, and your criteria, I would suspect that they both would challenge your expectations. Both are beautiful areas with many great features, but some negative too.

Positives:
Mountains and lakes-both regions have many places for water sports, though the water can be cold and the season fairly short. However, the ability to boat on lovely clear water and fish for trout is a great thing around here.

Public Lands-Oregon as a whole has an amazing array of landscapes available for hiking, campling, fishing, hunting, and just enjoying nature. Both the Bend and Ashland areas are in the midst of millions of acres of wonderful scenic country.

Dry, Bugfree, Low Humidity Summers-Although both areas have warm sunny summers,there is a distinction, Ashland-Jacksonville is quite a bit warmer (hotter actually) than Bend. Warm to hot days, with balmy nights. Bend nights can be sweater weather after sunset.

Good Restaurants and Things to Do-Both areas are tourist meccas which have attracted many ecopilgrims, who offer a rich array of services, creative restaurants and the like.

Negatives:

Dry, Fire-Prone Summers-Oregon is surprisingly dry in summer, and this causes the grass and ground layer herbaceous vegetation to dry up for most of the summer. I would disagree with Silverfall on this point. Having been to the midwest in summer there is no comparison. A few pine trees are not the same as a tallgrass prairie or deciduous forest. Ashland is pretty bad on this score, with a grassy hillside above town that is green for about three months a year in spring. However, on the other side of town it is completely forested, so quite a contrast. As things dry out, we often have forest fires, which can affect air quality. Not every year, but fairly often. Not sure about Bend,but it is dryer, so I would expect the same. Up in the mountains or over on the coast, however, you can access lovely green area through the summer.A cool thing about Bend is the ability to pop over to the west side of the Cascades fairly quickly and see lush scenery and a completely different climate. I do not think you would be disappointed by the scenery in either area,they are gorgeous. It would just take some recalibration of your aesthetic tolerances.

Home Prices-This will probably be a shocker for you. Bend has absolutely crashed over the last couple years, and "bargains" may now be had for under $200k. Ashland-Jacksonville are still over $300k for median, and the housing stock is often much smaller than what you would expect in the Midwest. A big negative in my mind. Not to say that more affordable places cannot be found nearby. Medford, near Ashland, is much more affordable. However, the economy of Oregon is in the tank, so paying even a $200k mortgage does not seem to be a cakewalk right now.

Schools-Not sure about Bend, but Ashland has pretty darn good schools. The challenge has been that the state of Oregon has been disenvesting in education for about a decade or more, and many schools are forcing teachers to take unpaid furlough days, 4 day kindergarten weeks, and in short, struggling. I am personally embarrassed about this situation in Oregon. My impression of the Midwest is that they support the schools and higher education as well. Not so much here ...sigh...

Culture-Although both towns have many cool people. They do seem to have attracted an inordinate number of independently wealthy or real estate-assisted exurban folks in recent years. Relatively few people are born and raised in the two areas you mention. This is not meant to bash too heavily, but to suggest that they are both rather unusual in the larger context of the Pacific Northwest in this regard. I know one woman did not care much for Ashland because everyone owned a Subaru, and a "Cal" license plate frame and "Keep Tahoe Blue" bumper stickers. The areas are California expat ghettos. Then again,you might just love living with smart, fit, active, politically engaged exurbanites.

All this said, they are beautiful areas if you can find a good situation. I suspect your husband woud have no problem finding great things to do in either place.

[Silverfall]