Long time Orlando resident
I have lived in and around Orlando since the early '90s. I have never seen a city grow in such enormous proportions so quickly. There is NO PLACE in Orlando that is not affected by horrific traffic and rush hours. I have a Love/Hate relationship with this city. I don't know every area intimately, but from my experience, this is what I know.
Here is what I like:
There are many contained single family home communities in the suberbs that allow you to live, shop, dine, and enjoy entertainment without having to go too far. I work from home, so I never have to deal with traffic. I rarely leave a 5 mile radius because everything need is in that area. The downtown area has been renovated a lot in the past several years and boasts some wonderful restaurants, cafes, specialty shops, etc. but I wouldn't recommend living down there because they still haven't figured out what to do about the multitude of homeless people wandering around this otherwise lovely area. Park Avenue in Winter Park is and old classic area that is beautiful with upscale shopping/dining area. Nearby Winter Park Village is a new establishment with wonderful dining, shopping and a great movie theater.
If you are wealthy, the areas I would recommend for suburban living are: central orlando - Winter Park; north of Orlando - Heathrow; to the south- Lake Nona, Celebration; on the west-side Keene's Point, Windermere, Isleworth, and the Dr. Phillips area (which has some of the best restaurants in the city).
If you are gay, the Thornton Park area has become very trendy and popular with the gay community. The area has some of the most wonderful restaurants and boutiques. Housing consists of modern upscale condos, and renovated homes built in the 50's and 60's. Great retro architecture in a trendy urban community.
Now, if you are a middle income, family oriented kind of person, the city of Oviedo is very nice, as is the Waterford Lakes and Stoneybrook communities on the east side.
Here's what I loathe:
We live on the east side near Waterford Lakes/UCF. We moved out here after living on the west side (Ocoee/Windermere) for 5 years. We left the west side because it was becoming so overpopulated. At the time, the east side was "no man's land". Houses in most of the Orlando communities are tyically built on "zero lot lines" meaning that there is only 10 feet between your house and your neighbors. We have a 3,000 square foot house with just 10 feet between are house and the house next door. Our backyard it the size of a dog run. And, there are no mature trees anywhere because they were all plowed down by the builders and replaced with saplings so there is no such thing as shade. But, living on the east side was good for my husband's commute to work near Florida Mall. Back then, it took him about 20 minutes to get to work. It now takes him 45 minutes in the morning and about 1 hour at night (or more if there is an accident). Traffic is unbelievable. Secondly, a new elementary school was built behind our neighborhood last year. It was built for 700 kids and on opening day was overcrowded with 1100. One year later, it's bursting at the seams with nearly 1300 kids. Lunch has to begin at 10:00AM to try to move 1300 kids through the lunch room by the day's end. My kindergartener eats "lunch" at 10:05AM. The poor 5th graders don't get lunch until just before they leave for the day! The high school in our area has nearly 4,500 students - that's the size of a small city!
Also, if you plan to live in Orlando, you better take a class in conversational Spanish if you don't already speak the language. We are quickly becoming a bi-lingual community and I foresee jobs going to those who speak both languages over someone who only speaks English.
Crime is certainly a factor but I believe it is concentrated in the "bad areas". I am really not overly aware of my friends or neighbors here in suburbia being victimized. However, I would not be so bold as to leave my doors unlocked or go for a walk in Pine Hills, a.k.a "Crime Hills". Again, we're in the suberbs. It's not Leave-It-To-Beaverville, but it's not the Bronx either.
The weather: November through May is absolutely beautiful. We have occassional freezing weather that goes to the 30's. But very occassional. The Fall through the Spring here makes you feel like you're alive. However, in June, the heat begins. You can barely leave the A/C in your house from July thru September. Seriously, the heat is nearly unbearable. Even children won't go outside to play! October is quite warm but not hellacious like the summer. And of course, there is the hurricane factor. They don't happen often but when they do, it's chaotic and scary. You must invest in plywood or storm shutters in the event of a hurricane so you don't get caught in the lines at lumber stores frantically trying to grab the last piece of wood in town to board your windows with.
Well, I hope this helps all you people out there with your choices. If I had the chance to move to a place with seasons and a big yard, would I? Yes, I would. I hate how crowded it is here. But, my husband has a good job here and my family is here, so I think we are staying for awhile. We have great friends and great neighbors, and we live in a contained community, so it'll do. My opinion of Orlando is that it's not the worst place in the world. It's not the best place in the world.
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