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All the lenses I have are not electronic, so I assume they are out of the question no matter what on a digital camera. If i am wrong begin Yelling at me.
They won't work. Too old to work on the Sony DSLR.
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You just answered a question I wasn't sure how to even ask.
last week I picked up a magazine off the rack on digital cameras.
There is a comparision and in that it uses these terms, but explains none.
APS-C
Four Thirds, (that's funny )
Full Frame
Please elaborate.
Full frame sensor is the same as your Minolta, where 50 mm is a normal perspective.
The APS-C is smaller with a net effect of cropping the picture, so your 50 mm on an APS-C sensor equipped camera would appear as a 75mm, a slightly telephoto. To get the same normal perspective of a 50mm on an APS-C digital camera that you get on your film camera, you would use a 35mm wide-angle lens.
An idea on my wife's art working is this shot which is macro zoom of rocks in the Bad lands. She included me as the larger character and her as the smaller. At this point her porfolio is getting large enough to perhaps go semi commercial with IF she can market it.
It would be nice if her work earned the costs of her materials. This is not her best work, but is what I have on photobucket.
The land scape is a couple of inches.
Back in 2000 I bought the Sony Mavica MVC-FD91. It was sorta like a SLR with some control on exposure and aperture. It was not bad, it used old floppies good for 20 images per floppy. We since have went thru a couple other digitals till we went with a tiny 8g Sony. We like the Carl Zeiss lens. With the shear size of the photo we can use photoshop and do just about everything my old SLR's could do. My memory stick is big enough with 2g pictures I can take 10,000 images before I upload them to the laptop.
Thanks for that info. I recall that earlier camera. It seemed impressive at the time taking the floppy. I never had one, but read about them. The sony 350 shirt pocket camera is on my list. What makes it hard is the 4x , 7x, and 10 x. I live in the mts of NH, and sometimes like to get far away things.
Probably I would just be doing casual snap shots of other guys and their motorcycles, on any group rides i might attend. Maybe get birds up close with a camera like that.
My wife gets down and dirty with the old Minolta's that can reach inside a flower blossom, or swap the lens and grab hawks sitting in a tree 200 yards away. She can hear the hawks, which set her in a frenzie.
2 years ago at maple sugaring time i got a small cow moose, with a fixed 45 mm lens, and wish I could have zoomed in some. It was on the last 1/4er of the 1 mile oval horse race track that is a part of this parcell, no longer in use, other than a foot path. The rest of the 3/4ers is our driveway.
I would recommend a used DSLR. You can get a camera kit for around $300. The kit lens is usually something like a 18-55 (28-88 in 35mm terms). You can add the 55-200 for something like $200.
Alternatively, you can get a used pro-level 35mm film camera for dirt cheap and buy a good lens. You can have the photos processed straight to CD.
The minolta 101 bodies I have and the several leneses I have are not pro quality like Nikon, but do the jobs I needed.
More or less I need that in digital, for my wife.
I am having troubles understanding terms, but gaining.
A part of the plan to get to speed will probably be buy a Sony DSC W 350. If i buy one new it will have a manual, and with that I can learn about the current functions and terms.
To me that is a digital cardboard box of a camera, but they don't cost a lot. It has the carl zeiss lense. That lense seems to get rave reviews.
With a DSLR, how would I find one at the $300.00 new, or can I. I could go to 500 bucks with out much trouble, but $1,500.00 for a body and more for lenses could be a problem.
Unless things changed the body was the least of the costs. The dollars are in the glass. I see that these days the dollars are also in the what i would call a photo sensor cell.
The names of these parts are a great deal of my problem, that and understanding which terms match what parts, and why they are even important.
With google I find there are 4 maybe 5 basic photo sensor cell sizes. The bigger the better, the bigger the more expensive. Ain't it always that way
There are about 3 sensor sizes you need to consider: P&S (point and shoot), which is your basic digital camera such as the Sony DSC-W350; DSLR (digital slr); and full frame (35mm). Full frame is out of your price range, even used.
DSLR's generally have less shutter lag.
You probably won't find a DSLR for $300 new, but could get a used one used.
Nothing has changed. Lenses still cost a bundle.
I'm not sure the Sony DSC-W350 has ability to adjust F-Stop or shutter speed.
Smaller lenses let in less light, work poorly in the dark, and are generally much more limited. The benefit is a smaller package (P&S).
You can get used equipment from Amazon, adorama, or fredmiranda.
The minolta 101 bodies I have and the several leneses I have are not pro quality like Nikon, but do the jobs I needed.
The name on the lens doesn't mean pro level or not. I've seen a few real stinkers for quality from Nikon, just as I have seen some top notch glass from Minolta/Sony and other names some wouldn't think of.
As a side note from some of your earlier posts, none of the lenses from a Minolta 101 will work on the new Sony bodies because the use a totally different style mount.
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A part of the plan to get to speed will probably be buy a Sony DSC W 350. If i buy one new it will have a manual, and with that I can learn about the current functions and terms.
Any camera you get around the $500 mark will give a decent manual, I wouldn't recommend buying a lessor camera just to get familiar with the terminology and for sure not the functions. Most DSLR's in that range will come with a "kit" lens and will be as easy to shoot photos with as a Point and shoot style, but give higher quality images and be able to grow into the more advanced functions as you/she is comfortable with. Go handle the DSLR offerings in your price range to find one that "fits" the best. They all feel a bit different in the hand, and each brand is laid out slightly different, so while I really like the feel and lay-out of the Sony DSLR's, you or your wife may find it very awkward.
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With a DSLR, how would I find one at the $300.00 new, or can I. I could go to 500 bucks with out much trouble, but $1,500.00 for a body and more for lenses could be a problem.
I can't think of a $300 DSLR off the top of my head. There are several very capable DSLR cameras out there around the $500 range.
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Unless things changed the body was the least of the costs. The dollars are in the glass. I see that these days the dollars are also in the what i would call a photo sensor cell.
The names of these parts are a great deal of my problem, that and understanding which terms match what parts, and why they are even important.
With google I find there are 4 maybe 5 basic photo sensor cell sizes. The bigger the better, the bigger the more expensive. Ain't it always that way
The cost of the bodies is still just the starting point and you can go crazy expensive on glass, but the cost of the bodies also is significant because of the wide range of options out there and what is important to you. Don't get too caught up in the Megapixel figures on different cameras. A 10, 12, 14 etc... megapixel DSLR will have much better image quality than the same megapixel figure point and shoot generally. While it is cool sounding to spout larger numbers, the actual visual difference between a 10 megapixel and a 14 megapixel image using the same size sensor is almost undetectable on normal sized prints, and hard to tell on even 16X24 prints.
Terms can be a hang-up. Right now my Father is looking into making the switch to digital and is struggling with what is what in relation from film to digital. The two that are the same in both film and digital is the aperture, and shutter speed. the "ISO" in digital relates roughly to the "ASA" ratings on film. The higher the ISO the lower light you can shoot in, but the higher amount of "noise" (which would be "grain" with film.) As for the sensors think of them as the film because they are what actually captures the image and records it to your memory. Just like film, the larger the sensor, the more information it can capture. The more information, the better the image quality. Just like an old disk film camera can't capture the image quality a 35mm film camera can capture, neither can a tiny point and shoot sensor capture the same image a full frame sensor can. There are several sizes in between those two (and beyond, but then you are talking very large costs.) that work very well.
As for the "crop factor" of the sensors that are smaller than the full 35mm sensors, that is just a way of saying the image captured appears larger than it would using a full frame camera. I shoot an "APS-C" size sensor so I have a X1.5 crop meaning if I shoot with a 200mm lens the print would look like I used a 300mm lens. The reason for this is that the lens is projecting a larger image than the sensor can capture and it is the same as cropping that "extra" out. Think of it as standing in front of a porthole with you being the sensor and the porthole being the lens. If you take a step or three back from the porthole (becoming a smaller sensor) the actual view out that porthole doesn't change, but the amount of that view you now see does.
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