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just wanted to remind all that with few exceptions any of those nice features in the shooting menu of your more recent nikon dslr's can not be read by any other editor other than nikon capture nx2 when shooting raw..
only exposure, white balance and adl (adaptive dynamic lighting ) carry over into other editing software like lightroom our photoshop.
adl on anything but low alters exposure so that is why that carrys over.
all the nice things in your shooting menu like vignetting correction, auto lens correction, high iso noise reduction , picture control and all the contrast ,saturation , sharpening , and brightness settings can not be read outside of nx2.
they only take effect in jpegs and tiffs out of camera. i have the ability in camera on the d800 to shoot in tiff but who would really want to.
Technically, in-camera effects/settings like Lens Correction, Noise Reduction etc are for JPEGs. RAW files themselves do not (and should not) have these settings applied.
For example, I rely mostly on Manual Focus with Focus Peaking which highlights the point(s) in sharp focus in a color of choice: White, Yellow or Red (options in Sony NEX-3). I prefer White, but occasionally, I may set the camera picture effect to B/W with Red for focus peaking. I shoot RAW+JPEG. The JPEG out of camera will mimic the effects setting I chose for the scene: B/W. But the RAW will record the colors.
During RAW processing, I would not want the software to render B/W image with RAW file (or any picture effect), rather a rendering that is as close to default as possible for all images or else I would have to adjust for the colors as well. Unless the software has the option to easily override in-camera settings applied to RAW (as is the case with white balance, lens corrections etc).
One in-camera setting parameter I do find acceptable to be carried into RAW, and it always is: ISO. Technically speaking, if shooting RAW (and manual modes), one may be just fine never having to worry about high ISOs especially with new sensors (even more than three year old sensors as in my NEX-3) except that the default rendering will be darker unless exposure is boosted. May be I will elaborate on this in another thread.
iso and softness at high iso is still a problem even with the best of sensors depending on how high the iso so i am not sure what you are saying about it not being an issue with new cameras.
even shooting at a lower iso and raising exposure in post processing grows noisy when boosted depending what you are doing with them. ..
iso and softness at high iso is still a problem even with the best of sensors depending on how high the iso so i am not sure what you are saying about it not being an issue with new cameras.
even shooting at a lower iso and raising exposure in post processing grows noisy when boosted depending what you are doing with them. ..
More than noise, the primary benefit with using lower ISO instead of higher is in dynamic range and color depth. I just posted a more detailed explanation in the other thread ("Optimum ISO").
With respect to noise, I consider it ideal to turn it off completely. For JPEG processing, both of my cameras are set to:
High ISO NR: Weak
Long Exposure NR: Off
And often, I believe, noise isn't necessarily a bad thing. OTOH, smoothing out via NR can be an unrecoverable issue. In the early days of using my A55, for example, I had High ISO NR: Auto. When I look back at those images now, I wish I had them at "Weak" as the camera's JPEG engine would sometimes be overly aggressive with NR.
A while ago, I set up my A55 to take identical image, with focus set on a tiny thread, in relatively dark conditions (dimly lit living room). With manual mode (fixed shutter speed and fixed aperture), spot metering, manual focus, stabilization off, RAW and the camera on tripod, I took images at ISO 200, 400, 800, 1600 and 3200 (repeated with NEX-3 as well). Took the RAW files and boosted the exposures to match (+4, +3, +2 and +1 stops respectively).
There wasn’t a significant advantage in terms of noise considering the darkness of the scene, but you could easily see that lower ISO captured better detail and especially retained better DR and color. The difference going from one stop to next wasn’t as impressive as comparing the extremes was.
Taking this into account, I decided to stick with ISO range from 200 to 800, to take photographs at an NBA game last week and have posted one image in the other thread taken at ISO 400. I used ISO 200 mostly with a faster, shorter focal length lens (Zeiss 50mm which I used along with the 200mm f/2.8). I did take some at ISO 1600 but that was for a different experiment.
Last edited by EinsteinsGhost; 03-29-2013 at 10:48 AM..
if you are printing hi iso noise rarely even shows up in the photograph unless it is really bad.
i will say this, hi iso with proper exposure range is a million times better when post processing using many of the topaz and nik software filters. under exposure noise that is pushed brighter looks like crap with many of the filters , hi iso run through any quality noise reduction program still works just fine.
Last edited by mathjak107; 03-29-2013 at 12:59 PM..
IMO, noise from modern cameras isn't really much of an issue for most practical purposes. It is why I wish I had more than "Weak" and "Auto" for choices to set in my cameras, but then, using RAW can solve that. There is another in-camera feature that I have access to (couple of them, actually) that can also be used towards this effect but since they produce JPEGs, they end up using the setting for NR and losing detail that I would have preferred to keep. These are good for static shots only though (Hand Held Twilight, which is an automatic mode, and Multi-Frame NR, which affords full manual control, both stack six consecutive shots).
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