Insurance (credit, house, buy)

[Javaman12]

Wow! Looking at a house pre-code changes (1996). Insurance will be about twice what a post change house will be.

[HarryWho?]

Yep. Buy the newest, best built, least flood prone house you can. There are so many things you have to look at if you're trying to budget.

[quattrohead]

Just finding this out myself too.
$3000 for a 1200sf frame with stucco and gable roof, goes down to $1100 with windstorm loss mitigation credit if it passes.
So far both insurance agents thought a 1983 should pass that test, along with a 4 point inspection....we will see.

[55Monterey]

So, so much can be done for cheap to retrofit an older home to lower insurance rates. I have an '84 and dropped my rate by almost 50% by protecting all openings with shutters, closing up gable vents, bonding the roof deck to the trusses with spray adhesive (also works as a secondary water intrusion barrier). The only thing I can't change is the gable ends but any newer house that has even the slightest gable, such as an overhang over a door, is still rated as a gable construction, so it is of little worry to me.
The roof deck adhesive cost $3000 but will pay for itself in less than three years in lowered insurance rates + although not touted as insulation, it does a damn fine job of lowering my cooling costs.

[quattrohead]

So here is a brief summary of what I have learned getting insurance for the first time in Florida, specifically PSL.

House is a 2 bed 1 bath of 900sf under air, 1200 total. Stucco over frame, gable ends built 1983.
Roof is older, but not likely to be 31 years old, however no roof replacement permit on file.

The first thing that strikes me is insurance down here is all about the roof falling off !!!! Alarm discount, deductible, liability etc have little effect on price compared to the type and age of roof.

The cheapest quote I got was $1120 with Heritage, however when I went through it again with a different agent, we discovered some of the wind loss mitigation credits would probably not apply to my house. Being more realistic with those brought it up to $1410.
The quote I ended up going with was through Peoples Trust, for $1550....with no wind loss mitigation requirements at all. If I got those, it would be $1420. So by the time you have paid for the inspection and worried about what they will find, it is a wash. They still do a general inspection, like a 4 point but at their own cost.

So, if you want the cheapest house type to insure, buy something newer than 2002 or have a permit on file for a replacement roof, get a CBS over a stick and find a hip roof over a gable roof !!!!

[FlaLadyB]

It would seem that you are probably going to need a roof replacement fairly soon. Roofs last an average of 20 years. If there was no roof permit on record I would bet your roof is the original. Your inspector should be able to have told you.
Did your roof have any problems that were found?

Wind mitigation would be an extra $75 with my inspector- and a house as old as yours would not pass current standards.

Having a wind mitigation inspection for a house that is newer will take your insurance cost down.

[Javaman12]

Good input and advice from all. As always, thanks! Planning on looking at a house in Traditions (not physically us but family). It was built in 2012 so the everything should be up to standard. Bit concerned with the roof - it is "Comp Shingle,Wood Joist" and not barrel. Will it make a difference in both cost and durability?

[HarryWho?]

Originally Posted by Javaman12

Good input and advice from all. As always, thanks! Planning on looking at a house in Traditions (not physically us but family). It was built in 2012 so the everything should be up to standard. Bit concerned with the roof - it is "Comp Shingle,Wood Joist" and not barrel. Will it make a difference in both cost and durability?

If you mean it's shingles rather than drain tile, no it's not a problem. A good composition shingle will last a long time and is much less to fix or replace.