Anderson Homes (house, neighborhoods, construction)

[momof2divas]

I am looking very hard at Anderson Homes building a home for my family in Sterling Ridge, and I really don't have to many concerns but one. I am curious if anyonce can chime on in their floor systems. I mean they are built with 2 2x4's with 2x4's on angle to resemble a truss system. Is this way better then a solid 2x10 or say 2x12 or even the silent floor system one very similar that royal oaks uses. The one that looks like a wooden I-Beam. I hate floor squeeks and I know you can screw down the subfloor as well before carpet goes down to help eliminate any in the future. Let me know what you think as I really like Anderson Homes but I am a newbie to the area and I am trying to stay around the $195's and below if possible. Also does a house with a dual zone system really save more money over a house with one system?
Thanks in advance.

[MikeJaquish]

Originally Posted by momof2divas

I am looking very hard at Anderson Homes building a home for my family in Sterling Ridge, and I really don't have to many concerns but one. I am curious if anyonce can chime on in their floor systems. I mean they are built with 2 2x4's with 2x4's on angle to resemble a truss system. Is this way better then a solid 2x10 or say 2x12 or even the silent floor system one very similar that royal oaks uses. The one that looks like a wooden I-Beam. I hate floor squeeks and I know you can screw down the subfloor as well before carpet goes down to help eliminate any in the future. Let me know what you think as I really like Anderson Homes but I am a newbie to the area and I am trying to stay around the $195's and below if possible. Also does a house with a dual zone system really save more money over a house with one system?
Thanks in advance.

1. I like floor trusses. A lot. They put a 3 1/2" surface under the plywood for gluing and nailing. I prefer that 3 1/2" surface under joints rather than joining two sheets on 1 1/2" dimensional lumber or 2" on I-Joists.

2. Note "gluing." That is what keeps you squeek-free.
You want a big old BEAD of construction adhesive between the plywood and truss that mashes down and ridges any voids between the materials. Two big old beads where two sheets come together on a truss.
The nails or screws will stay in place if the deck is properly glued and the nails or screws hit solid lumber.
If you have dimensional lumber joists, and look from below and don't see some construction adhesive squeezed from between the plywood and the truss, you likely don't have a great glue job.

3. Don't know anything about Anderson Homes, but I expect Ferrickhead to pop in anytime and fill you in.

4. The dual zone system will keep the comfort level within a tighter range. I don't know if it will save you money, but when the home gets to a certain size, one large system doesn't maintain a constant temperature very efficiently, IMO.

[coltank]

The spiderweb truss design you are describing IMO is the best you can use. We used them on an addition at my folks house for my grandparents. I'm sure they're spacing them 24" OC, but even then you get better subfloor coverage than using dimensional lumber.

[MikeJaquish]

Originally Posted by coltank

The spiderweb truss design you are describing IMO is the best you can use. We used them on an addition at my folks house for my grandparents. I'm sure they're spacing them 24" OC, but even then you get better subfloor coverage than using dimensional lumber.

Depending on the design and the span, trusses may be spaced 24" O. C., or 19.2" O. C.
We have both in our home, because of two different open spans that they cover.

[momof2divas]

I am appreciating the input here on the truss design. Back in Ohio we used 2x10 or the I-Beam design and the truss has just got me thinking but I am seeing it in a new way now. I appreciate all your inputs. I come from a cabinet maker background so I am able to see how things come together and was curious. Me wife really likes the Anderson Home so we are thinking about having them go on and build for us. I hope we are getting a good home for the buck. Also do there neighborhoods look good years after they are done? I have seen a few builders that you can tell they are not goign to look good years later. What I mean here is the siding quality, roofing materials, and such

[coltank]

Originally Posted by MikeJaquish

Depending on the design and the span, trusses may be spaced 24" O. C., or 19.2" O. C.
We have both in our home, because of two different open spans that they cover.

Typically I-joists are placed 19.2" OC and the spiderweb trusses are 24" OC, versus dimensional lumber that is 16" OC. Now, you can place it closer, but there is really no need to.

[momof2divas]

So does the truss design carry more weight then say a solid 2x10 or a I-Beam design?

[MikeJaquish]

Originally Posted by coltank

Typically I-joists are placed 19.2" OC and the spiderweb trusses are 24" OC, versus dimensional lumber that is 16" OC. Now, you can place it closer, but there is really no need to.

Again, depending on the structure in question.
In my home, the 12' span in the bedroom allowed 24" O.C. installation in that area, but the same depth truss had to be spaced 19.2" o.c. to carry the added span over the kitchen and breakfast room area.
Both are common o.c. dimensions based on panel length as much as span.

[MikeJaquish]

Originally Posted by momof2divas

So does the truss design carry more weight then say a solid 2x10 or a I-Beam design?

The engineers can answer that one.
Span, design loads, truss design, wood species, are a few common variables.

I like trusses when engineered components are specified, over other options.

[KellyCrash]

If you have a two story house, I think a two zone system is essential. We rented a 3500 sq. ft. house with 1 zone and 3 floors. The finished basement was always cool, the 1st floor was fine - cold even, & the 2nd floor would get so hot it was unbearable. The thermostat was located on the 1st floor.