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We have a Noritz NR981-OD in our 4000 sq ft home. It is cheap to run, however compared to our prior home which had a hot water tank then the water flow in the shower is far less ;-(
While I like the fact that we won't run out of hot water, and the lower running costs I have to admit that I miss my old shower. I did turn up the water pressure a bit which helps, but still no comparison if you like a fast flowing shower.
note: We removed the water restrictors for both old and new shower.
Search through the forums about this, there are several threads.
It's a bit more complex that some think.
It depends on:
If you already have Nat Gas at the house, if it's already run near where the heater might go, and can a flue be run from it to outside?
If no Nat Gas, than you have to look long and hard at the electrical requirements. Installation of the unit and piping is typically really easy, but you are adding a HUGE electricity load. (Even if it saves energy over a tank system because of reduced duration, the time it is one will consume a LOT of juice). You'll probably have to run thick (expen$ive) cables back to your house's main fuse-box. And some houses might not have enough capacity in the fuse-box, so it would have to be upgraded, (OMG !!! $$$).
You also should contact your utility companies. Ask about rebates and/or tax benefits per fuel choice.
I've read that homes using private wells shouldn't go tankless because the sediment in the water wreaks havoc on the system. Does anyone have experience with this sort of thing?
I've read that homes using private wells shouldn't go tankless because the sediment in the water wreaks havoc on the system. Does anyone have experience with this sort of thing?
Just add a good filtration system. While I really like "properly installed" tankless systems, they generally don't save as much money as one would think when you factor in the initial cost. The equation may change as it seems plumbers are charging much more for standard water heater installs these days!
Why would you need to heat hot water?
BTW, I suggest you go tankless, if you can. It's much more efficient since it only turns on when you need it.
LOL, any water warmer than 0.0 degrees Kelvin is "warm". Or, in other words, you heat hot water to get it hotter.
But be cool about it. Being efficient is NOT the whole story. You need to have the math done:
>> Installed cost (parts AND labor), - cost of energy saved over life of the unit = years payback.
If it's a very efficient unit that's very very expensive, it might be a bad 'investment' of your money.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC2RDU
I've read that homes using private wells shouldn't go tankless because the sediment in the water wreaks havoc on the system. Does anyone have experience with this sort of thing?
Excellent point. A water quality test should be done, to compare with the factory recommendations regarding the instantaneous heater's heat exchanger material. IE: steel? be careful. Stainless Steel? (it's more expensive, but also more corrosive resistant).
Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy67
Just add a good filtration system. While I really like "properly installed" tankless systems, they generally don't save as much money as one would think when you factor in the initial cost. The equation may change as it seems plumbers are charging much more for standard water heater installs these days!
Filtration only pics out suspended solids, reducing the chances for clogging. It won't do that much about corrosive hard water.
You're points about installed cost are very well made. There is a reason why most new-home builders put in a tank. it's WAY cheaper 1st cost.
If I could do it again I would have gone tankless. I like the speed.
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