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Old 06-02-2015, 10:30 AM
 
Location: My House
34,938 posts, read 36,228,900 times
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I put these together because every time I ask about driveway/parking pad guys, I get crickets.

And we do need both.
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:54 PM
 
Location: Raleigh NC
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I'd start with whomever your builder recommends. I think I recall that you bought a resale, but assuming that the original custom builder is still around, then he'd surely have some ideas.

As far as I know, Blalock Paving does good work on the driveway/pad front. I can give you some GC names for the porch/sunroom as well.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:13 PM
 
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I'm getting a fairly large driveway and parking pad paved soon, and I don't have any recommendations at this point, but the process of getting quotes from paving companies was pretty frustrating. It was hard to get them to show up in the first place. When they did, their written estimates all seemed to lack a lot of detail, and it took some effort to decipher what work would actually be performed.

For example, several of the quotes didn't specify the thickness of the gravel base. When pressed, they said they would add gravel "if it was needed". With a little more prodding, I could tell that some were trying to excavate and haul away as little dirt as possible, making the driveway sit much higher than I wanted. Probably the most surprising part is that very few of the paving companies were willing to apply for a driveway permit with the city engineering department. This might only be an issue in Durham, but the city is definitely supposed to inspect the forms in the right of way before the concrete is poured. That rule seems to be routinely ignored.

In general, I would just get a bunch of estimates, and shoot for something in the $5.00-$5.50/sqft range that includes all the excavation, haul away, and 4 inches gravel base, with 4 inches of the stronger 4000 psi concrete. The quotes I got under $5/sqft all seemed to be cutting corners. Good luck!
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:42 PM
 
Location: Oxxford Hunt, Cary NC
4,477 posts, read 11,613,953 times
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I'm still loving my screened porch built by Garuda Custom Decks!
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:15 PM
 
Location: My House
34,938 posts, read 36,228,900 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoBromhal View Post
I'd start with whomever your builder recommends. I think I recall that you bought a resale, but assuming that the original custom builder is still around, then he'd surely have some ideas.

As far as I know, Blalock Paving does good work on the driveway/pad front. I can give you some GC names for the porch/sunroom as well.
Wardson built our house. They're definitely still around. Good idea.

Do DM me any recs you have, Bo. Thanks!
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:17 PM
 
Location: My House
34,938 posts, read 36,228,900 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris75 View Post
I'm getting a fairly large driveway and parking pad paved soon, and I don't have any recommendations at this point, but the process of getting quotes from paving companies was pretty frustrating. It was hard to get them to show up in the first place. When they did, their written estimates all seemed to lack a lot of detail, and it took some effort to decipher what work would actually be performed.

For example, several of the quotes didn't specify the thickness of the gravel base. When pressed, they said they would add gravel "if it was needed". With a little more prodding, I could tell that some were trying to excavate and haul away as little dirt as possible, making the driveway sit much higher than I wanted. Probably the most surprising part is that very few of the paving companies were willing to apply for a driveway permit with the city engineering department. This might only be an issue in Durham, but the city is definitely supposed to inspect the forms in the right of way before the concrete is poured. That rule seems to be routinely ignored.

In general, I would just get a bunch of estimates, and shoot for something in the $5.00-$5.50/sqft range that includes all the excavation, haul away, and 4 inches gravel base, with 4 inches of the stronger 4000 psi concrete. The quotes I got under $5/sqft all seemed to be cutting corners. Good luck!
Thank you so much! I hope your project turns out well. It's amazing how hard it can be to get detailed quotes, isn't it?
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:19 PM
 
Location: My House
34,938 posts, read 36,228,900 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adlnc07 View Post
I'm still loving my screened porch built by Garuda Custom Decks!
Thanks!
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:27 AM
 
Location: Cary, NC
43,264 posts, read 77,033,287 times
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RDUBiker swears by the guy he uses. Joseph Grantham(?).
You might chat with him about his experience.
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Old 06-03-2015, 06:03 AM
 
2,459 posts, read 8,074,529 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedZin View Post
I put these together because every time I ask about driveway/parking pad guys, I get crickets.

And we do need both.
A bit early in the year for crickets?

For the concrete work, I'd agree with Chris that quite a few local folks get it wrong. Spalling, cracking, etc. seems way too common. I typically provide contractors a spec. This does two things - The guys that don't understand it or won't do it I can reject out of hand. It also provides for an apples to apples comparison. Assuming "normal" driveway loads with options for added strength:

- Compacted sub base of 4 inches of crush and run
- Sub base should be wet before placing concrete
- Concrete depth : 4" (5" for added strength)
- Concrete strength: 40000 psi
- Concrete slump : Not to exceed 4"

Finishing requirements:
- Broom finish (or other if desired)
- Contractor shall *not* add additional water to the concrete at any time (while it makes placing the concrete easier, it effectively weakens the strength of the concrete).
- Soft joints provided at all contacts points with existing hard surfaces.
- Control joints every 10 feet with particular attention paid to inside corners.

After the concrete is finished it should be kept wet for at least seven days. The easiest way to do that is to cover it with poly sheeting. You want the concrete to remain moist to hydrate and gain strength for as long as possible. Retaining moisture also delays cracking due to shrinkage until the concrete is stronger. I know this sounds nuts, but properly hydrating concrete for seven days makes the concrete 50% stronger than not doing it .
The control joints are important as they give the concrete a place to crack without obvious appearance issues.

Frank
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:00 AM
 
Location: My House
34,938 posts, read 36,228,900 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeJaquish View Post
RDUBiker swears by the guy he uses. Joseph Grantham(?).
You might chat with him about his experience.
I'm so glad you just reminded me of this. I'd totally forgotten.
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