|

03-05-2007, 06:19 AM
|
|
Triangle Area Explorer!
Status:
"Thinking of a new plan"
(set 7 days ago)
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North Raleigh, NC
5,484 posts, read 5,500,640 times
Reputation: 3200
|
|
When to do spring lawn fertilization in the Triangle?
Some neighbors and I are having a friendly dispute about the best time to fertilize.
One of my neighbors thinks now is the perfect time while the other says it is too early and that we need to wait a few more weeks so it can warm up a bit more before applying. I have hedged my bets and did a half application last week and will do the second half neext week.
So, for folks who currently live in the Triangle, I am curious if you have already had fertilizer applied to your lawn. I have been reading the NC State Turf website and it recommended late Feb early March which seems to support my decision but I am curious to hear what others are doing? 
|
|

03-05-2007, 11:20 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2006
59 posts, read 92,213 times
Reputation: 20
|
|
|
I did mine yesterday. Hopefully it turns out well.
|
|

03-05-2007, 12:49 PM
|
|
Real Estate Agent
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Cary, NC
7,966 posts, read 6,285,157 times
Reputation: 3967
|
|
|
NRG,
Turf Files, absolutely. If you want to grow any sort of grass, they can tell you how to get it right.
Too much nitrogen too late in the spring will work your fescue to death in the heat.
And don't forget the lime. Clay soil produces acid naturally and lime combats that and helps the grass "digest" the fertilizer.
You really need to get your crabgrass pre-emergent down inearly February, with a second application in May. It's barrier property breaks down at about 160 days. That's why folks have terrible crabgrass in the summer even though they put down pre-emergent early on.
Pre-emergent can be bought without a fertilizer component. That is what I would use for the second application in May. Some Scott's 38-4-4, or what ever put down in May will have you reseeding this fall after everything dies in July and August.
You're done fertilizing until late September. That is the most important fertilizer application of the year, since the fescue is more active through the winter than through the summer.
Yep, I'm putting my money on Turf Files.
|
|

03-05-2007, 01:54 PM
|
|
Triangle Area Explorer!
Status:
"Thinking of a new plan"
(set 7 days ago)
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North Raleigh, NC
5,484 posts, read 5,500,640 times
Reputation: 3200
|
|
Thanks Mike. Yeah, the NC State turf files are a great resource. I have used the pictures on their website to ID the extensive weed population in my yard! If chickweed and henbit were a cash crop I would be a rich man! Unfortunately my yard was the victim of 4 years of neglect from the previous owners and I have begun the long journey back to a healthy looking lawn that will hopefully someday add to the curb appeal of my house! 
|
|

03-05-2007, 07:02 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
360 posts, read 397,822 times
Reputation: 131
|
|
|
Both of them were right. Weed germination depends on soil temps.. So if it is warm early, an earlier application is better. If it has been cold, later is better. Most of the lawn care companies can't change thier time frame from year to year(or they have lots of applications to make) so applications are generally made starting at the end of Feb. and into the first week of Mar..Depending on the typ and the strength of the chemical follow up applications are usually made for season long weed control.
There is a vast array of chemicals and strengths on the market so discusion on the subject can get pretty deep. I would be glad to answer any more questions you may have, but i won't bore you with soo many details for now.
|
|

03-05-2007, 07:04 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
360 posts, read 397,822 times
Reputation: 131
|
|
|
Also, what type of grass are you fertilizing?
|
|

03-05-2007, 07:12 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2007
71 posts, read 121,140 times
Reputation: 34
|
|
Most warm season grasses benefit greatly from a first fertilization right about now. Grass types will vary the rule a little, but for a "general" rule, end of February to beginning of March is best. Average last freeze where I live is 3/17, and I just fertilized 9 days ago. Happy gardening. 
|
|

03-05-2007, 07:41 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
360 posts, read 397,822 times
Reputation: 131
|
|
|
sloppy joe,
You are right about the warm season grass, although here you need to be careful not to fert. (nitrogen) warm season too early as it can get the grass greening up early, then getting burned by a late frost(which is common here). For the warm season here i use a fert with a low N and pre-emergent for now, then wait until it warms up good to really put the N to it.
|
|

03-05-2007, 07:53 PM
|
|
Triangle Area Explorer!
Status:
"Thinking of a new plan"
(set 7 days ago)
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: North Raleigh, NC
5,484 posts, read 5,500,640 times
Reputation: 3200
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cary native
Also, what type of grass are you fertilizing?
|
My lawn is Tall Fescue ..... and lots of weeds  . I am avoiding crabgrass pre-emergent becasue my fall overseeding was done late and the new grass is not well estblished yet....only mowed it once before going dormant. Thanks for the input!
|
|

03-05-2007, 09:12 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
360 posts, read 397,822 times
Reputation: 131
|
|
NRG,
As long as the grass is up it should be o.k. to pre-emerge it. At this point, in my opinion, it is more important to keep out the crab grass. Some of your young fescue will dye this summer if it is not established good leaving lots of opportunity for the weeds. If you keep out the weeds you will have an easier time re-seeding this fall when it counts.
Also, get a soil sample so that you will know what your soil ph is and what you need to do to get it right(lime, lots of lime). You will be amazed at how much better your turf will do with the ph around 6.5. Alot of the summer weeds don't like the higher ph too  as the normal ph around here is about 5.0.
|
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
|
|