Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Well it looks like I will be painting them rather then staining as I originally planned. So I guess I need to start looking for paint grade instead of cabinet grade correct?
I have built a few bookcases using MDF.
It's much cheaper than plywood and will not warp.
Also you get a much smoother finish on the flat surfaces.
Just make sure that you get the screws lined up to the center of the board and DO NOT use an electric drill to put in the screws - it will rip them right out.
I just want to point out that while I prefer Capital City Lumber, all of the cabinet grade ply (A-A 3/4") that I have purchased from Lowe's has been high-grade, warp free, and made in the US. The Chinese ply is usually the underlayment type stuff like CDX.
I have done all of my built-ins using cabinet grade ply (usually birch veneer) with a stain and poly finish. I usually do edge banding to cover up the grain rather than build a face frame.
If you are going to paint it, then just use 3/4" MDF. As noted it is cheaper and of decent strength. Cut it, build it, prime it, and paint it.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.