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Location: Chapel Hill, NC, formerly NoVA and Phila
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When we sold our 1953 house two years ago, our buyers used a VA loan. Everything I read about it made me think it was going to be a pain in the neck, but it turned out to be no big deal at all. They they asked for two things to be fixed - an outdoor handrail leading to the walkup basement (cost less than $50 to put in) and some piece of aluminum gutter added to the roof (cost about $5).
I've had VA inspectors call out missing handrails on staircases and peeling exterior paint; those seem to be their favorite issues. The list above up thread is a good list though. And just because the VA inspector wants things fixed doesn't mean the seller necessarily pays for it. It depends on how the contract is written. The only thing the buyer cannot pay for according to VA guidelines is the termite inspection ($35 in my area). Assuming the house has been maintained and is habitable, a VA loan is nothing to stress over.
Thanks much! The outlets, when we bought the house were 3-pronged but not grounded so our electrician said that was against code and deceptive and we switched them all to 2 prong. Hummmm..... something to think about.
Can one even buy two-prong outlets in stores? I am unaware of this if that is the case.
Maybe you could get some on E-bay, but why would you? The 2-prong outlets offer zero advantage. They are less safe and you cannot plug in modern appliances or extension cords into them. You can however go the reverse route and plug two-prong plugs into three-prong outlets ((the ground (larger, round hole) would simply not be utilized))
I am an electrician and if I was going to replace your wall outlets I would've used the standard duplex tamper-resistant outlets you can get at Home Depot for 99¢ each in a 10-pack, or for about 70¢ as some contractor supply houses.
TR outlets are code where I am. You can get non-TR for cheaper, but you have to be able to justify why they're being installed (like an elderly homeowner who has severe arthritis who doesn't have the strength or the know-how to use the TR outlets).
But yes, I have encountered older homes where many things were un-grounded. Grounding has been code for so long that this is somewhat uncommon, and usually due to sloppy/shoddy work having been performed, rather than having been done in some pre-code era. Yeah, some of those old metal boxes are hard to work in, and electricians in the past used different (still effective, mostly, just different) methods of grounding things. Things get slightly more difficult when crossing MC/BX wiring with more modern NM-B wiring.
Can one even buy two-prong outlets in stores? I am unaware of this if that is the case.
Maybe you could get some on E-bay, but why would you? The 2-prong outlets offer zero advantage. They are less safe and you cannot plug in modern appliances or extension cords into them. You can however go the reverse route and plug two-prong plugs into three-prong outlets ((the ground (larger, round hole) would simply not be utilized))
I am an electrician and if I was going to replace your wall outlets I would've used the standard duplex tamper-resistant outlets you can get at Home Depot for 99¢ each in a 10-pack, or for about 70¢ as some contractor supply houses.
TR outlets are code where I am. You can get non-TR for cheaper, but you have to be able to justify why they're being installed (like an elderly homeowner who has severe arthritis who doesn't have the strength or the know-how to use the TR outlets).
But yes, I have encountered older homes where many things were un-grounded. Grounding has been code for so long that this is somewhat uncommon, and usually due to sloppy/shoddy work having been performed, rather than having been done in some pre-code era. Yeah, some of those old metal boxes are hard to work in, and electricians in the past used different (still effective, mostly, just different) methods of grounding things. Things get slightly more difficult when crossing MC/BX wiring with more modern NM-B wiring.
the house was built in 1954. It is against code to use triplex receptables in ungrounded boxes. It is not against code to use grounding adaptors with 3 prongs. So that's what is going on. Since I lease out properties I must follow local code.
the house was built in 1954. It is against code to use triplex receptables in ungrounded boxes. It is not against code to use grounding adaptors with 3 prongs. So that's what is going on. Since I lease out properties I must follow local code.
If the box is un-grounded then....ground it.
There are too many scenarios in which a box might be un-grounded, and too many different solutions for your problem depending on the current situation to go into detail in this forum, but it sounds like you need a professional electrician (and not some hack who claims to be "a handyman") to come take a look.
Most likely the box itself IS grounded, but you just need a "tail" extending to the outlet itself. If it's safe then go ahead and leave it as is, but I wouldn't want those adapters in my house.
There are too many scenarios in which a box might be un-grounded, and too many different solutions for your problem depending on the current situation to go into detail in this forum, but it sounds like you need a professional electrician (and not some hack who claims to be "a handyman") to come take a look.
Most likely the box itself IS grounded, but you just need a "tail" extending to the outlet itself. If it's safe then go ahead and leave it as is, but I wouldn't want those adapters in my house.
I used a licensed electrician as is required by the city where the rental property is located. I don't use unlicensed handymen to work on my properties for electrical or plumbing.
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