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Old 04-04-2016, 03:26 AM
Location: MD/Arkansas
92 posts, read 188,836 times
Reputation: 94


The more we've talked with the cargo container people the more we feel we will be using a crane to lift it on and then on the other end of the trip off of the trailer. Not only due to the weight but yes the possible shifting if we don't use a crane.

We have had health certificates and coggins tests done before but do have it on our list of things to do with our big animal vet. Always a good thing to think ahead on.

And as always still getting the house here in shape for listing on the market. Everything else depends on getting it sold this summer. But sold or not will be retiring end of September
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:09 PM
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
22,745 posts, read 40,156,025 times
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Better get an estimate on the crane required to lift a 40' container.!!!' Might be very tough to stablize the side load without being on a slab / parking lot. IIRC. Empty is 9,000#, EVERGREEN MARINE CORP.

Since you have a farm location for loading, consider placing it on an elevated berm of some type, or make your own hillside using a dozer.

It will not be hard to load with a winch & ramps & dozer. Or a lowboy and well service winch truck / tractor.

Load is not gonna shift if the incline doesn't exceed 10%, you can do that. (With some big equipment).

Unfortunately, the best option is to place it on a truck empty, and then pack your stuff (and visa versa). Thus I use 20' containers, and pup trailers. My dozer and trucks are too small to be tossing around 60,000# bricks filled with fragile items,

By all means, sell the house and retire ASAP !!!

Retire early, retire often, too much fun to do only once!
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:39 AM
Location: MD/Arkansas
92 posts, read 188,836 times
Reputation: 94
So far after talking with several local crane businesses I'm told that fully loaded 40 foot containers with household items (even with appliances which we will only be taking one) the weight of both the container and contents will not exceed 20000 pounds (10 tons) and more likely be around 9 tons. This will allow us to use a smaller crane (well to them it's a smaller crane) and save lots of money. And after keeping an eye on Uship most of the containers that people are asking for bids when loaded are less than 20000 pounds.

I could build a ramp for the container but I'm trying not to rip up my friends farm too much (which is mostly flat land). Also I plan to have the container for app 6 months before it's moved and store stuff in it till moving day. Then while the house is being built the contents will be in it at the other end till we can move stuff from it into the new house. So I can't really afford to tie up a truck trailer to keep the container on it till then.

We'd use 2 twenty foot containers but the price of even one is only a few hundred less than 40 footer so the cost of 2 twenty foot containers would really jack up the total price.

Now for a couple of other items. Pest control. We'll be putting non-poisonous in the container at my friends farm. If any of the mice etc eat poison and get out before they die his cats may eat the mice and get sick/die. At the other end while the container is on our new land we wouldn't have any pets till after the house is built and the container is emptied so we can put mice poison in it during storage time there. No close neighbors (1/2 mile for closest one) with pets.

Also the idea of moisture in the container was brought up and we can either run a small dehumidifier at both ends (we will have electric at both) or they also sell big packets/bags of chemical that suck out the moisture. As far as heat it will be in shaded areas at both places plus we can put vents in the container. We wouldn't be storing anything that the heat will be bad for such as food, CDs, DVDs, TV, etc.

We've been researching this and many other things for many years since we bought our retirement land 10 years ago. But are still open for other thoughts and ideas And for that and discussions we thank everyone.
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:35 AM
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
22,745 posts, read 40,156,025 times
Reputation: 23943
Rough estimates show 3.5# / CuFt, High cube 40' is 3,000 CuFt, so you are correct in assuming only #10k Net load in a #10k. Empty weight (tare) container.

Personal experience shows my loads to be quite a lot heavier (maybe cuz the friends I have moved are mechanics / machinists, welders, wood workers). The last two had really downsized and we were over #12-15k net on each truck load (28 ft moving trucks or 1700 CuFt ). We took (3) trucks WA to AZ for one friend, and (1) very full truck and fullsized van and biggest trailer availabe to rent. WA to DFW. (That was a misersble truck... Budget / GM diesel truck; mushy suspension, slow and EXPENSIVE on fuel, 3x fuel expense of a Penske DT466 International)

That saying... You can do your own calculation, and might be OK at #20k, but be conservative, as you will be hiring a crane to show up, and you DON't want to do that twice!

Other options: I still prefer the 'build-a-shop option', (at your new land) as ;
1) I know how much stuff I collect to build a house, and what a pain it is to work around or store during the process.
2) I also would make a make a BIG muddy mess of RV (daily)
3) Building may take you longer than you think (my neighbor lived in his shop while he built... I built 4 houses and he was still in the shop (4 yrs), and his wife nagged him every minute of that time)
4) My shops get plenty of use later (after home is done)
5) Having a DRY and secure place to work while you are building is a delight.

Consider building a shop for your farmer friend! He might LOVE that! You can often find used commercial steel buildings pretty cheap.

I also like the container idea, but there is some cost / trouble with that. It will really help if you have a friend with a semitruck (maybe your farmer friend). I don't like being dependent on someone else to move it each time, and keeping it accessible (out where people will see it, and have to drive around it). I find them very dark and damp for storage, and quite confining for a workshop.

Do arrange pest and moisture control. Pack accordingly (with ventilation, especially for clothes and books). Heaters and airflow will be best, the 'drier'. Dry-ez canisters will also help, but need to be changed / regenerated frequently.

Buying an 'insulated' container is a very good investment (they are less likely to sweat)

Option 3 is renting storage and using a conventional mover. You can often get storage units very cheap (free months and free trucks).

I find I run all the numbers, and I am still wrong in the best. / simplest solutions. I am reminded of that frequently (by my checkbook and spouse / kids)
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