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Old 03-19-2013, 04:18 PM
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I am interested in having an electric fence to keep some critters in and i went to tractor supply and the energizers they offer only seem to have one in and one out, so how does on do multiple wires?

Much appreciated!
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:45 PM
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splice your electric fence wire to the wire leading out of the fencer.

I have used electric fencing since the early 70's and have done dairy rotational grazing with electric fences dividing paddocks since 1993.

My son in on the dairy farm now and is continuing the roatational grazing.

I will be glad to answer any questions you may have.
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:47 AM
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Well thank you for answering! Are you saying I do something like this attached pic?
Attached Thumbnails
Electric fence questions-energizer_03.jpg  
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:58 AM
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On an electric fencer, there will be 2 wires attatched.

One is plainly marked...ground
( the wire from there goes to a ground rod)

The other will be for the " hot " wire leading to your fence.
That wire gets attatched to your electric fence and any wires attatched to that will be hot also.

You do not need to " loop" your pasture fence and return back to the charger.
You may run your fence for 15 miles all in one direction or make a square, rectangle, triangle, or oblong pasture.

Everything gets "hot" by being attatched to the one,hot,wire leading out of your fencer.
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:13 AM
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Thank you, I havent bought it yet, so i am only nominally familiar with the actual charger. SO does the ground get run along parallel to the hot?
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:32 AM
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The ground only goes a foot or two and then is attatched to a grounding rod driven into the ground.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:25 PM
Location: North Western NJ
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i was in the same boat, never worked with an electric fence, NOT technically minded. and heres what i learnt.
it realy is very simple.

1: get a charger BIGGER than you think youll need..

and remember each line adds to the chargers load, so say your running a 1 mile fence...BUT your running 4 live strands thats a total of 4 miles of electric fence...
now add in how many times you might want to cross fence, modify possibly add a line.
also remember that you must take into account the distance form where your charger will be to where you wantyour fence...if youve got a mile between the charger and the electric fence itself add that into the equation becaue despite the lead out line being insulated its still powering that lenght of line.

I knew i neeed a 1 mile perimeter fence, i knew running goats id need 4 lines...so thats 4 miles total...but then i thought well what if i want to add electric to the outside of a chicken coop, or need to build a seperate buck pen, or want to rotationally graze ect...so i bought the 10 mile charger cause thats as large as i could affor at the time...

2: be sure to go low impedance, itll help if you take a couple days too long to weed wack and getthe occasionalblade of grass, or if your going through a wooded area and might get the occasional branch ect...
it takes quite alot to effect the volatage on my fence.

3: did i mention dont over think it?!

when i started looking i looked too much and just confused myself...
in reality this is a very simple system....you do NOT have to bring your fence back to the box or to itself...so you can do 1 long line, or you can do a circle or you can do a square of a zig zag your only limit is your own imagination and the number of posts/insulators you have lol.

baic basic set up.
green terminal is ground. form this terminal you take 1 lenght of INSULATED wire and attatch it to your ground rod. your ground rod should be no more than 20ft form your charger...
if your in an area of poor grounding or going to be running alot of fenceline...MORE GROUND RODS...i live heavy clay and whent with 3 6ft grounding rods the better your grounding the better the system works!
if running multiple grounding rods...you attatch grounding rod 1 to the green on your charger, then attach insulated wire to the grounding rod and run to the next grounding rod (about 10ft away) repeat as nessicary, all grounding rods shoudl be attatched to eachother, with the one closest to the box attatched to the box's ground terminal...thats IT for grounding...your done with that terminal.

now for your live wire.
step 1: run your electirc fence line...DONT SKIMP, go with the larger guage for best results
i whent with 14g, 12 is even better. a frined has 17g electrc fence and mine gets a much cleaner zap to it...shes now upgradingin her fence to 14g and has noticed a difference in her goats behaviour...

run your lines, use good insulators dont put your posts too close together (you want some "elasticity" to it, dont want ti to sap and pull inulators off everytime something catches the fence.)
should be tight enough to ot sag but unless your doing high tensile fencing, shouldstill have some "spring" to it.

once your fence is run you take a peice of INSULATED wire (itll be 12g usually) same type you just ran to the gorunding rods....attatch it to the red/live terminal and run it to your fence...if running it over a distance i suggest using some pvc pipe/conduit to protect it from trips, lawnmowers ect) youll simply hook the exposed metal insie the insulated wire to the fence...tada whichever line its hooked to is now your live wire...

but you want to make 2 lines hot...or 3...or 4.....EASY. take a little peice of that insulated wire and make a bridge, attach a bit of metal in the insulated wire to the live line and then to the line you want to add and make hot...and tada, a 2 line ence...
want 3, take another peice ofinuslated and hook it form line 2 to line 3, contiue untill you have all the lines you want hooked up.
(they do acutallymake little kits that you can use to do this without hacking up insulated wire but im poor so i used what i had on hand lol

4: INVEST in a good voltage reader.
theres "fence testers" out there for 3.99 thats jut a little light that blinks if your ence is "live" well thats great but itll blink if theres even a few volts making it to the fence...you want to know just how much power your fence is getting...and a single blinking lights not going to tell you that, a good voltmeter however will

plug in fence charger, your box should make a quiet but audible Click sound and most have alittle orange blinking "fence ok" light, then take your voltmeter to your fence, stick the rod in the ground and touch it to any of your "hot" lines and you should see quite a good deal of voltage PULSING...itll be up and gone and up and gone and up and gone...thats normal.
assuming your getting a good reading your good to go...
if not it means your probably grounding out somewhere so check your fenceline for sticks, anywheewhere the line is touchign a metal post or chainlink type fencing, wet vegitation in high volumes ect...carefully clear and re check.

check your fence regularly for grass grwing, fallen branches ect...

If I can do it...anyone can lol
just be sure to unplug it before doing any groud maintennce, it gives you quite a little chock if you hit it with any of the metal parts of a weed wacker...lol
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:33 PM
Location: North Western NJ
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heres a VERY simplified image

green is ground, grey posts in the ground on the left as your looking are your ground rods.
red is Live, brown posts fence posts, grey horizontals your electric fence wire.

thick black line is your INSULATED wire.
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:35 AM
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Google bi-polar horse fencing - it is so simple and multitudes times better - the "wires" are actually wide tapes, very easy to install.
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:30 AM
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I really like electric fences and used primarily the step-in fiberglas posts for interior fencing on rotational grazing.

On interior fencing, I use lightweight aluminum electric fence wire because I then can put my fiberglas posts 45 ft apart ( 15 paces ) and it hold the wire tight.

I am not a big fan of heavy electric wire unless it is for the perimeter fence.

(too hard to work with requiring too many electric posts to hold it up )
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