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I've never really understood the winterize process for a home. I have a cabin I built in the woods, the construction was completed this past October and I didn't go up at all this winter as we had more snow than ever. The winters of 2015/ 2016 & 2016/2017 I showed up twice on my property to check on the land and the trailer which I've been able to winterize with no problem. Right now the place is a weekend/3 season get away for me and my little one. Eventually, it will be my retirement home in 10 years but my plan is to spend my winters down south once retired!
The cabin being brand new, I was worried about pipes freezing and everything. I filled the propane tank around October, which is quite expensive and left the house at 60 degrees. It ran out once in the winter; I think late January or early February. Filled the damn tank again. If the power goes out and the furnace shuts down I have two back-up fireplaces one in the living room and one in the master bedroom that kick in as they are on a thermostat. So pretty much all winter the house is at 60 even though it's empty for around 120 days. I'm fortunate to say that my HVAC guy is also my neighbor so he checks on my house often. He's the HVAC guy I had to hire after I fired the contractor that built my house. It was a real nightmare!!
What's the process to winterize a cabin and would I have to worry about the wood floors and my brand new wood furniture warping with wind chills dropping down to -40? Wouldn't the cold damage the foundation and cause cracks on the walls? What about mold buildup? I have a thermostat that detects the high humidity and I have a dehumidifier running all winter! How can I cut some of these cost for next winter without damaging my home? I was a little surprised to see how much it cost to maintain an empty cabin!!
Any info from others that have winterized successfully would be appreciated.
I agree that 60 seems rather warm for a place that won't be used at all. You should be able to drop the temperature to 50 without inviting damage.
Common wisdom says that "wind chill" only applies to breathing persons. The wind may make it feel like -40 to the mailman, but the mailbox is only -22.
I agree that 60 seems rather warm for a place that won't be used at all. You should be able to drop the temperature to 50 without inviting damage.
Common wisdom says that "wind chill" only applies to breathing persons. The wind may make it feel like -40 to the mailman, but the mailbox is only -22.
Common winterizing steps people up here includes draining the plumbing and leaving a bit of RV antifreeze in it. So even if the heat does quit the pipes won't split. Leaving it at 60 seems high, but where your plumbing sits (such as exterior walls or a poorly insulated crawlspace or basement) will matter. You need to find out just how cold the plumbed areas can actually get as opposed to the interiors. There are lots of winterizing suggestions on the web, probably some local sources of info too considering your conditions.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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We have friends and relatives with vacation homes at Lake Tahoe, where it will be 10-20F in winter, as low as -30 with wind chill at times. None leaves the heat on. The homes are built with a water line low-point drain, which they use, drain the water heater with a hose, then put antifreeze into the toilets. If they go up for a winter weekend they have the electric pipe heating system. If you are going to run the heat, I would set it at 45-50F, and dehumidifier seems a waste of electricity. With good insulation and dual or triple pane windows, and good insulation with (hopefully) 6" stud walls it should be fine.
How thick are the walls and what R-value was the house insulated to?
I do not know anyone who sets their thermostat at 60F when they vacate a building. 50F is common.
'Winterizing' usually includes draining the pipes. But they need to have been designed for this, your plumber should have seen to this detail during construction.
Common winterizing steps people up here includes draining the plumbing and leaving a bit of RV antifreeze in it. So even if the heat does quit the pipes won't split. Leaving it at 60 seems high, but where your plumbing sits (such as exterior walls or a poorly insulated crawlspace or basement) will matter. You need to find out just how cold the plumbed areas can actually get as opposed to the interiors. There are lots of winterizing suggestions on the web, probably some local sources of info too considering your conditions.
So if I put a little thermometer in the crawlspace of the house I would get an accurate temperature underneath the house where the plumbing sits?
Yeah, find out what the locals do. But, usually, if you drain the plumbing, you shouldn't have to run the heat.
We're actually an association in the middle of the woods! LOL. Most people own the lots ranging from 3 to 20 acres. A lot of them still have campers and some of us have started to build homes on the property. Most of them are living in them as they've retired. The rest still have campers on their property. By draining the plumbing, that would mean shut the well down, run all the water out of the faucets and empty the hot water tank? I'm assuming it's very similar to the winterizing the camper.
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