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Old 05-11-2013, 12:34 AM
 
4,135 posts, read 9,538,469 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prunella View Post
I want to correct my comment on J Deere mowers above. I should have said - when the belt becomes loose, the blades collide with each other, causing them to drop off. This happens often and is expensive to repair. The supplier always tries to make out it is the customers fault.
We have now bought a 12 yr old Murray mower. It is going strong and will be easy for us to repair when it goes wrong.
We bought our mower from HD because shipping was free ). It was a John Deere mower shipped right from the factory to the John Deere dealer, who then assembled and delivered it. We later discovered that had we paid for it thru the dealer, they would not charge to pick up or delvier for repairs... which we needed when the very small ( in our opinion) belt slipped. [We caught it before the blades dropped, but it was a real pain to push back to the house from where it was.] The repair was under warranty -- free.

Had we known about the difference of pay to ship from factory to dealer vs. pay for any pickup/delivery for repairs? We'd have bought at the dealer
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:52 AM
 
Location: Washington
90 posts, read 355,839 times
Reputation: 93
I have never owned a John Deere Mower. I have however worked for a division of John Deere, therefor I will refer back to my first statement.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:23 AM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
23,480 posts, read 41,072,462 times
Reputation: 25053
I have a few pre-1990 JD's, they have always worked fine (I am in rain country, so must mow A LOT 2 - 3x / week)

I will stick with my current fleet of 185 hydro's w/ 17hp Kawasaki. You can get them for about $300 and the ONLY problem I have had is the electric start solenoids and switches (Rain country = oxidized connections).

I added a simple $1 start button and bypassed all the safetys (no kids are using anymore, just me).

I have found Synthetic oil is a must in Japanese air-cooled engines in heavy service. I have never changed oil my hydro trannies, but I will take that advice and do so soon.

When JD declined to 'consumer grade' mowers, they got to flimsy for me.
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:33 PM
 
Location: Planet Eaarth
8,955 posts, read 17,973,471 times
Reputation: 7193
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post

I have found Synthetic oil is a must in Japanese air-cooled engines in heavy service.
Just curious.....What advantage does Syn oil offer over mineral oil for JD's engines??

I change my oil every fall for winter storage using mineral oil. I've used syn oil in cars but never in small engines since they don't get the stress of a car engine. What the advantage??????
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:22 AM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
23,480 posts, read 41,072,462 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpa Pipes View Post
Just curious.....What advantage does Syn oil offer over mineral oil for JD's engines??
...
Heat resistance. Better lubricity.
The Aluminum Blocks and heads on Kawasaki Air Cooled (much tighter tolerance / fit than the Cast Iron Kohlers) seem to gawl the exhaust valves using Dino Oil.

YMMV.

Cast Iron Kohler is probably the better choice, but that baby is gonna be OLD. (which is not a BAD thing )
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:46 PM
 
Location: Planet Eaarth
8,955 posts, read 17,973,471 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post
Heat resistance. Better lubricity.
The Aluminum Blocks and heads on Kawasaki Air Cooled (much tighter tolerance / fit than the Cast Iron Kohlers) seem to gawl the exhaust valves using Dino Oil.

YMMV.

Cast Iron Kohler is probably the better choice, but that baby is gonna be OLD. (which is not a BAD thing )
Switching to Syn oil this fall oil change...........

How often do you change your oil since you use syn oil ??

What brand syn oil and weight do you use??
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:36 AM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
23,480 posts, read 41,072,462 times
Reputation: 25053
I use Amsoil cuz I buy it by the drum. 15w-40 HD diesel oil.

For lighter / smaller applications Walmart or similar carry Shell Rotella T6 Shell Rotella® Products - Shell Rotella

I am in a pretty mild climate, but have found my older gas engines are not keen on 5w-30

I don't use Pennz or Quaker State, but only due to some issues I had MANY yrs ago with Dino oil. (I trust they have corrected).
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:32 PM
 
Location: The Mid South
304 posts, read 407,636 times
Reputation: 236
My JD riding mower is now 35 years old, yes a few repairs, a flat, a belt wore out, etc. but can't imagine any other brand doing better.
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Old 05-16-2013, 02:03 PM
 
Location: Ohio
15,360 posts, read 13,793,573 times
Reputation: 21019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fortoggie View Post
My JD riding mower is now 35 years old, yes a few repairs, a flat, a belt wore out, etc. but can't imagine any other brand doing better.
But...............

just like everything else, the old ones were made better than the new ones.

I have a 30 year old Sears Craftsman.
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:57 PM
 
Location: Planet Eaarth
8,955 posts, read 17,973,471 times
Reputation: 7193
Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post
I use Amsoil cuz I buy it by the drum. 15w-40 HD diesel oil.

For lighter / smaller applications Walmart or similar carry Shell Rotella T6 Shell Rotella® Products - Shell Rotella

I am in a pretty mild climate, but have found my older gas engines are not keen on 5w-30

I don't use Pennz or Quaker State, but only due to some issues I had MANY yrs ago with Dino oil. (I trust they have corrected).
I don't use 5-30w in ANYTHING I own!! I used to use Amzoil but my dealer moved away. I see what I can find at NAPA.

Added.......
This should work fine since I can buy it online.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2fase.aspx
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