Brake work

[bspray]

I don't know that Thousand Oaks garage is any different than any other garage in town on pricing. They are not the cheapest but not the most expensive either... certainly not as bad as a dealership. What I like, in addition to the quality work they do is, they give you options on how to fix it. For example, there is the text book way to fix something and that text book way is often very pricey. Then there is an alternate way that may not be exactly by the book but it gets the job done. Every time I've gone to Thousand Oaks, they've explained both options to me, the cost of both repairs and the risks involved with doing one over the other. I appreciate that. Sometimes I have them do it text book, sometimes I have them take the shortcut. I have never once had an issue with one of their repairs, even when I've asked them to take the shortcut... Their shortcuts are quality too...

[Labamigo]

My issue with Brake Check is that they put your car on the lift and take everything apart, no matter what you came in to have repaired. If you don't want a lot of work done, your car sits like that for hours while they work on the customers who they are charging more. It's not unusual to drive by a BC and see all the lifts full of cars with all their tires off and no work at all being done. I know that's their business model but it sucks, IMO.

[69GSstage1]

Since you own a Honda, I recommend Arrowwood Automotive at 951 E Bitters Rd. They specialize in Honda/Acura repairs. I have dealt with them for nearly six years and I have yet to be disappointed.

[Labamigo]

Thanks I will look into them.

[KM1174]

its so easy to do on your own. all you need is:

brake pads
brake pad grease
socket wrench and appropriate socket (usually a 10 or 12mm with most imports)
a big set of pliers or a big C clamp (c clamp is easier, used to compress the pistons back into place).
about 30 minutes - 1 hour time.

most cars, you undo 2 bolts, pull off the piece that houses the brake pads, remove pads, grease new pads and put them in, compress piston, rebolt everything back up and pump brake a few times to get pressure back. test drive up and down the road, make sure they work, do a few 35+mph stops by slamming on brakes to brake them in, profit.

[rattle axis]

Originally Posted by KM1174

its so easy to do on your own. all you need is:

brake pads
brake pad grease
socket wrench and appropriate socket (usually a 10 or 12mm with most imports)
a big set of pliers or a big C clamp (c clamp is easier, used to compress the pistons back into place).
about 30 minutes - 1 hour time.

most cars, you undo 2 bolts, pull off the piece that houses the brake pads, remove pads, grease new pads and put them in, compress piston, rebolt everything back up and pump brake a few times to get pressure back. test drive up and down the road, make sure they work, do a few 35+mph stops by slamming on brakes to brake them in, profit.

Yep, pretty much this.

However, if I might add a modification/suggestion to your procedure:

When compressing, it's a good idea to open the caliper bleed screw and eject piston brake fluid as particulate matter and debris (deteriorating hoses, dirt suspended in fluid) will settle in the lower parts of the brake system - calipers. This eliminates any risk of forcing debris back into your ABS pressure modulation valve (can be expensive) or clogging up a proportioning valve on older vehicles.

May as well, while you're at it go ahead and change the brake fluid. It's hygroscopic. Absorbs moisture over time and breaks down. Excessive moisture can corrode the brake system (copper crush washers, banjo joints, steel lines) and lessen braking effectiveness as well. Refer to your shop manual for your particular model though, as some ABS/TCS vehicles have specific bleeding procedures that need to be
adhered to. Generally, we don't have to replace brakes any more frequently than a few years in between, so It's about the right interval for changing/flushing all of the fluid as well.

Make sure to hit the glide pins or pad guides with a wire brush and clean them up to as prevent binding and uneven wear on the new pads.

Also, it should be noted to inspect the rotor/drums for grooves, heat spots, glazing, cracks, and of course take measurement and make sure you aren't at discard thickness if machining has been done in the past or is currently required. (See your shop manual for that specification)

[steve807]

"appropriate socket"
I've finally accumulated all 6 or 7 needed for the different makes of cars. Some are hex/star/torq's.

This job is easier/cleaner than a driveway oil change and a big money saver.