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Old 06-16-2009, 01:27 PM
 
324 posts, read 1,166,537 times
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sounds like it needs serviced - it could be freezing up or low on freon, etc.


I just had a new system installed by a local guy who also does servicing if you'd like his information.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:09 PM
 
1,836 posts, read 3,329,422 times
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I just installed a new compressor myself: A 5-ton unit (I'm cooling 4k square feet). I also took apart the blower, cleaned the unit and installed a new motor in it. I'm running a whole lot better, but this past weekend was hell living without any AC...

All of that being said: I feel your pain



BN
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:16 PM
 
Location: Charleston, SC
5,615 posts, read 12,786,815 times
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Try upping the energy efficiency of the house, or find plants that will shade it. That'll catch up with the a/c and lower the heating and cooling bills.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:25 PM
 
Location: AGRESTIC
325 posts, read 693,265 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenjaminNicholas View Post
I just installed a new compressor myself: A 5-ton unit (I'm cooling 4k square feet). I also took apart the blower, cleaned the unit and installed a new motor in it. I'm running a whole lot better, but this past weekend was hell living without any AC...

All of that being said: I feel your pain



BN
I'm no expert, sounds like you are, is 5-ton marginal capacity for 4k sqft??
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:27 PM
 
Location: Wiesbaden, Germany
13,807 posts, read 26,286,853 times
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get a thermostat that lets you set different temps for different times of the day and step it down like someone said before. Expecting any a/c to cool a house 4-5 degrees at around 6:00 PM is like asking for rain in SA; it's just not going to happen..

I have a 2700 sq. ft. and that is the limit for one 5 ton according to Airtron. 3000+ SF should have two units.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:33 PM
 
Location: Smalltown, USA
3,111 posts, read 8,306,702 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2DMaxx View Post
I'm no expert, sounds like you are, is 5-ton marginal capacity for 4k sqft??
There are some considerations but for the most part 500 sq.ft = 1 ton.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:34 PM
 
Location: West Creek
1,720 posts, read 4,005,560 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXtrkgrl View Post
Good question.
(1) Even though you change your filters, your coil may still be dirty and need cleaning.

(2) Low on freon??? Maybe. But doesn't it usually freeze up if low on freon?

(3) Your unit just may not be big enough to handle this heat. There are LOTS that could factor in...... insulation, windows facing the west, trees (shade) etc.


I'm going with #3 in my un-professional opinion.

I dont think its low on freeon, if it would be low the compressor wouldnt turn on could be the condenser, sometimes they get pluged up with derbis and they go unoticed, well untill its too late anyway.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:54 PM
 
1,740 posts, read 5,183,935 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXtrkgrl View Post
There are some considerations but for the most part 500 sq.ft = 1 ton.
That is a very basic rule of thumb. But that old number doesn't necessarily hold up in today's newer more efficient homes. With double and tripple paned windows, low-e glass, radiant barrier, higher insulation standards, the direction the house faces, shade, roof color, zoning, etc. You can't just say 500 square feet = 1 ton. Another factor in place in most two story homes is conditioned space above the garage. This puts a huge heat load on the second floor as does high ceilings. Remember air conditioner systems aren't cooling square feet...they are cooling cubic feet.

I have a three zone five ton system on my 3,214 square foot house and it cools it very easily. I can easily hold 74 during the heat of the day and I have limited shade around my house. They system modulates between the three zones. That said, I have a very tight house and radiant barrier. The best thing to do is to have a load test done by an engineer that understands how a HVAC system should work. And it isn't just the tonnage - the size and placement of the ducts and return air will also play a big part in how well a system works.

Here in the south I see too many houses from too many builders that put A/C units in a closet with one return air duct below it at the floor. Then the duct runs are as short as possible barely reaching into a room. For proper cooling the duct runs should extend to the outside edge of a given room as that is where the heat load would be. In addition, the return air registers (to work properly) in the south where we use A/C more than heat should be located in the ceiling and not at the floor (which is cheapest and easiest to do). If the unit can easily pull the hot air out while at the same time replace with conditioned air - the unit can run more efficiently and effectively.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:59 PM
 
Location: San Antonio, TX
1,512 posts, read 2,606,727 times
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Another point--check the compressor outside and see if it's blowing warmer air than the ambient temperature. (Trust me, you'll be able to tell the difference.) If so, you probably need to have the freon (or whatever it's called nowadays) level checked.

--Dim
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:06 PM
 
Location: Smalltown, USA
3,111 posts, read 8,306,702 times
Reputation: 2036
Quote:
Originally Posted by banker View Post
That is a very basic rule of thumb. But that old number doesn't necessarily hold up in today's newer more efficient homes. With double and tripple paned windows, low-e glass, radiant barrier, higher insulation standards, the direction the house faces, shade, roof color, zoning, etc. You can't just say 500 square feet = 1 ton. Another factor in place in most two story homes is conditioned space above the garage. This puts a huge heat load on the second floor as does high ceilings. Remember air conditioner systems aren't cooling square feet...they are cooling cubic feet.

I have a three zone five ton system on my 3,214 square foot house and it cools it very easily. I can easily hold 74 during the heat of the day and I have limited shade around my house. They system modulates between the three zones. That said, I have a very tight house and radiant barrier. The best thing to do is to have a load test done by an engineer that understands how a HVAC system should work. And it isn't just the tonnage - the size and placement of the ducts and return air will also play a big part in how well a system works.

Here in the south I see too many houses from too many builders that put A/C units in a closet with one return air duct below it at the floor. Then the duct runs are as short as possible barely reaching into a room. For proper cooling the duct runs should extend to the outside edge of a given room as that is where the heat load would be. In addition, the return air registers (to work properly) in the south where we use A/C more than heat should be located in the ceiling and not at the floor (which is cheapest and easiest to do). If the unit can easily pull the hot air out while at the same time replace with conditioned air - the unit can run more efficiently and effectively.
You are correct. That is why I said there are lots of considerations (I didn't feel like writing a book about it)
I almost didn't post an answer for that reason.
Are you an A/C guy??
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